E-Class (W211) 2003-2009

Rotor won't fit over new P-brake! Can't move

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Old Apr 9, 2022 | 04:28 PM
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Rotor won't fit over new P-brake! Can't move

I just replaced my parking brake shoes with new springs and the new rotor won't fit over the brake shoes! Both parts from FCP are supposed to fit and look like they do (links below). Shoes match up with the old. Rotor measures out exactly as old so and old rotor won't fit over new shoes either. it must be the Parking brake, but I can't see what I'm doing wrong. The grooves on the shoes look seated in the expander, the tabs are seated in the slots on the tensioner, the tensioner is backed off all the way and the brake pedal is released. Pics of it below. What am I missing?

Also, in videos I watch they are able to spin the hub. Mine will not. why?

Any quick help on the P-Brake issue is appreciated as I'm dead in the water and without transportation until I resolve this.
Attached Thumbnails Rotor won't fit over new P-brake! Can't move-20220409_155943.jpg   Rotor won't fit over new P-brake! Can't move-20220409_155923.jpg   Rotor won't fit over new P-brake! Can't move-20220409_155917.jpg   Rotor won't fit over new P-brake! Can't move-20220409_155913.jpg   Rotor won't fit over new P-brake! Can't move-20220409_155929.jpg  

Rotor won't fit over new P-brake! Can't move-20220409_155936.jpg  
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Old Apr 9, 2022 | 05:25 PM
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Worst case scenario just leave the shoes out of the assembly when you put things together (as well as anything that would be rattling around without the shoes, of course). You won't have a parking brake but you'll be fine without it.
You're POSITIVE the adjuster is all the way in and the ends of the shoes are as close together as they can possibly get? Any chance the parking brake is in the "on" position?
What's the inner diameter of the new rotor (drum) compared to the old one?
Would the old shoes fit with new springs?

Last edited by rapidoxidation; Apr 9, 2022 at 05:30 PM.
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Old Apr 9, 2022 | 05:53 PM
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Thanks for the quick response. I took it all down and put it all back and it worked. I think I had the cable pulled into the assembly too far and it held the expander open a little the grooved end looked closer together and so that must have been it. Phew, and thank you!
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Old Apr 9, 2022 | 07:01 PM
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ANSWERS IN ALL CAPS (don't know how to do color or remove italics?)


Originally Posted by rapidoxidation
Worst case scenario just leave the shoes out of the assembly when you put things together (as well as anything that would be rattling around without the shoes, of course). You won't have a parking brake but you'll be fine without it. I WAS THINING ABOUT IT!

You're POSITIVE the adjuster is all the way in and the ends of the shoes are as close together as they can possibly get? THIS WAS THE PROBLEM DISCOVERED AFTER TAKING IT DOWN AND RE-INSTALLING. THE CABLE WAS PULLED INTO THE ASSEMBLY A LITTLE

Any chance the parking brake is in the "on" position? NO, I MADE SURE

What's the inner diameter of the new rotor (drum) compared to the old one? SAME, 17"

Would the old shoes fit with new springs? DIDN'T TRY BUT I DID MATCH UP THE OLD SHOES TO THE NEW AND THEY SEEMED ESSENTIALLY IDENTICAL. NEW SPRINGS WERE ACTUALLY A LITTLE SHORTER BUT THAT WOULDN'T OPEN THE SHOES
I know this was a short thread but hopefully someone who may have the same issue will find it someday.
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Old Apr 9, 2022 | 07:25 PM
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Stupid question but did you try adjusting the ratcheting mechanism?
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Old Apr 10, 2022 | 10:52 AM
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Yes, I did make the adjustment but only after figured it all out and was able to get the rotor back on. That video is helpful though for future reference. Thank you.

QUESTION: I cannot rotate the tire or hub. I adjusted P brake by spinning rotor before inserting the set screw. I have car in park but also tried to rotate hub in N with tire blocked. Is it because I only have that one corner jacked up? Do i need to have BOTH rear wheels off the ground to rotate? What am I doing wrong? Why won't hub spin? It's not the brake cuz I tried before even installing P brake.
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Old Apr 10, 2022 | 03:47 PM
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Now P brake won't engage

First side (passenger side) figured out, installed, adjusted, and working properly. Then I did the driver side and it was easy now that I know what to do. Looked perfect. BUT... it does not move when pressing the P-brake pedal and in fact NEITHER now work as the pedal just goes straight down without any resistance at all which i guess means the passenger side is now not working either. What could I have done on the driver's side to affect Both sides? Makes no sense, it feels like the pedal is connected to nothing.
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Old Apr 10, 2022 | 10:56 PM
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Check your cables from pedal to each brake. I bet you find a connection that isn't connected anymore.

Last edited by rapidoxidation; Apr 10, 2022 at 10:58 PM.
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Old Apr 11, 2022 | 12:28 AM
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One cable loose causes neither parking brake to function. Didn’t have this problem on my W211 but on a different MB chassis, a Y shaped connector splitting the cable to the back wheels dropped one cable and caused the exact symptom.
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Old Apr 11, 2022 | 06:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Odd Piggy
One cable loose causes neither parking brake to function. Didn’t have this problem on my W211 but on a different MB chassis, a Y shaped connector splitting the cable to the back wheels dropped one cable and caused the exact symptom.
I need to do some work to my e-brake, so for future reference if it needs more than just adjustment and if I manage to drop the cable from the Y shaped connector, where exactly it is located?
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Old Apr 11, 2022 | 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Heguli
I need to do some work to my e-brake, so for future reference if it needs more than just adjustment and if I manage to drop the cable from the Y shaped connector, where exactly it is located?
Yes, where is it Located? And if this is the case is it possible the cable came off at the brake pedal itself with all the up and down I was doing? If so, how do I get to that?
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Old Apr 11, 2022 | 12:40 PM
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On the W163 the adjuster and the splitter were in the driveshaft tunnel. I’m assuming it’s similar on a W211, which, of course, could be wrong because they’re different chassis from different design eras.
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Old Apr 11, 2022 | 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by drchpeteros
Yes, where is it Located? And if this is the case is it possible the cable came off at the brake pedal itself with all the up and down I was doing? If so, how do I get to that?
Did a little googling, and found this (post #2): https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...-question.html

Did not find a picture for the E-class, but on a C-class there is a cover under the rear seat. Middle. Remove that, and you'll get access to cable divider.
To have access to pedal itself, remove the plastic from under the dash (three T20 screws IIRC). I've spend some time under there, but didn't pay attention that how easily you can get to the cable.

Last edited by Heguli; Apr 11, 2022 at 12:47 PM.
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Old Apr 11, 2022 | 03:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Heguli
Did a little googling, and found this (post #2): https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...-question.html

Did not find a picture for the E-class, but on a C-class there is a cover under the rear seat. Middle. Remove that, and you'll get access to cable divider.
To have access to pedal itself, remove the plastic from under the dash (three T20 screws IIRC). I've spend some time under there, but didn't pay attention that how easily you can get to the cable.
Great info, thank you!
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Old Apr 14, 2022 | 10:43 PM
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Problem solved

My mechanic had the car up on the lift to weld a hanger for the exhaust and found the left cable had come disconnected at the Y junction. He was able to reattach it and all is good. Not sure how I knocked it loose from fiddlng with the end of the cable at the brake shoe but apparently I did.
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