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I've booked it in with a local mechanic to fit. He has quoted 3 hours to fit plus a wheel alignment. Is 3 hours too little? Does anyone have a workshop guide as to how long such a job would take?
If you are keeping stock front shocks make sure your local mechanic knows how to adjust the ride height when assembling them with the new springs. Along with the adjustment possible in the rear end using the OE spacers (which he should have if he works on MB a lot) you are able to tune it in 100% to YOUR liking.
It may take a couple of goes to match front & rear to what YOU like so check for it in the quote.
"You" in capitals because it is your car and the adjustment has to be done to suit your requirements; don't just get kicked out the door with a shibby.
Spring swaps in the w211 is not a simple remove & replace.
Keep in mind the Eibachs settle a little bit - not much but enough to matter.
Also make sure to adjust the castor, camber in front to your requirements (lower links have some adjustment available). Rear toe is adjustable - some shops don't know how.
Post photos when done.
Cheers from Brizzy. Hope you are doing OK after the weekend.
If you are keeping stock front shocks make sure your local mechanic knows how to adjust the ride height when assembling them with the new springs. Along with the adjustment possible in the rear end using the OE spacers (which he should have if he works on MB a lot) you are able to tune it in 100% to YOUR liking.
It may take a couple of goes to match front & rear to what YOU like so check for it in the quote.
"You" in capitals because it is your car and the adjustment has to be done to suit your requirements; don't just get kicked out the door with a shibby.
Spring swaps in the w211 is not a simple remove & replace.
Keep in mind the Eibachs settle a little bit - not much but enough to matter.
Also make sure to adjust the castor, camber in front to your requirements (lower links have some adjustment available). Rear toe is adjustable - some shops don't know how.
Post photos when done.
Cheers from Brizzy. Hope you are doing OK after the weekend.
UPDATE: All is going well with the new lowered springs - except there is a slight "clunk" from either side of the front end.
The clunk or thump is not consistent. You could be going over a bumpy road and it may clunk once! Or you could go up a driveway and get a clunk - or nothing!
Anyone have any ideas? I've googled around and it could be anything from sway bar links to the top strut nut not being tight enough. I'll do the easiest thing first. I have a torque wrench and sockets - what is the suggested torque setting for the top strut nut???
I have eibhach lowering springs on my w211 from the previous owner. I too get some clunks from time to time. Haven't found the source yet and I've looked under the car when it's on my lift every time I get it in my garage to work on it...etc.
I have eibhach lowering springs on my w211 from the previous owner. I too get some clunks from time to time. Haven't found the source yet and I've looked under the car when it's on my lift every time I get it in my garage to work on it...etc.
-Nigel
Some good news! I tightened up the top strut nut on both sides of my car. Seemed to help, with only 1 or 2 clunks noticed. I may get some proper torque settings for the size of the nut/rod and go from there.
Some good news! I tightened up the top strut nut on both sides of my car. Seemed to help, with only 1 or 2 clunks noticed. I may get some proper torque settings for the size of the nut/rod and go from there.
check your bushings on both sides, may need replacing...Food for thought.
R,
2Merks
Yep. it could be many things. Going through and double checking the swaybar links' nuts are a good idea too. They are fiddly to torque right and can feel tight due to being loaded by the swaybar but then move around and loosen up after a few km.
After replacing everything worn in the front of mine I still had some random noises and finally tracked it down to the swaybar mounts - the hard plastic bush surrounds move against the chassis & brackets causing a variety of sounds. The bush is molded to the swaybar but the assembly is still available from MB AU (cheaper than from FCP but an f-ton more than just the rubber should be!!!! ).
Get the car in the air and disconnect both swaybar links. Heave on the bar arms and you should hear the mount groan/grind/squeek/rattle. Check that the three bolts per mount are tight.
I gave the mounts a good clean and some Permatex.... Can do this without removing the bar from the car but getting the brackets off is character-building.
Still quiet 2500km in and a new bar is on the shelf in case the rubber parts of the mount fail later.
Last edited by CS_W211; 12-14-2022 at 07:57 PM.
Reason: words vs kb vs brain
Hmmm have read the above link and your spot above.
But would the sway bar have to be removed completely to get the struts out and replace the springs? I can understand the ends of the sway bar being disconnected, but not the mounts along the length of the sway bar.
I can't do any servicing to my car as my garage is limited, but I will ask my local mechanic to check things out when I get it serviced in January next year (2023). thanks for your input!!!
The swaybar doesn't come out during a suspension change. I do suspect the reset of regular ride height due to the new setup irritate the old swaybar bushes that have been in the same position for years - and now they tell you about it.
I've done all my work in a regular 2 car garage. Best thing I bought a few years ago is a set of the largest QuickJacks. In my view you can't own a '00s German sedan without them :-)
A good 2nd option is a set of RaceRamps - for those 'what the hell came loose now' moments where you don't want to drag out the QuickJacks.
UPDATE: At a regular service done by my local mechanic, I told him about the clunking noises and asked if he could take a look.
He tightened up some suspension components and clunking has gone. I am happy now.
10-21-2022, 06:08 AM
