tbeiler

2005 E320 CDI, inline 6, 3.2liter,
210,000 kilometers

An ongoing issue with this car for a long time.
Last year I replaced my ECU. I had the intermittent start issue where car would only start when the dash glow plug light came on. When it didn't come on, the car would not start.
The local Benz dealer said I needed a new ECU, but would cost around $ 4K plus.
So I said no, and sent it out to a FLA company and got it repaired/replaced for less than half the cost.
Now the car starts no problem, 100% of the time. One issue solved.

When I finished install of the ECU, I took the car around the block, but the transmission would not shift out of first gear.
It seemed that it was trying to shift to a higher gear, but was bucking back and forth, but never going into next higher gear.
Then the ABS light ESP light came on and into limp mode. As soon as I removed the key and tried again, no dash lights but my non shifting issue was still there.
I figured to change out transmission fluid and filter, and check the valve body, and replace the conductor plate.
The car had been sitting for some time as the ECU was getting repaired and only got it back last November and also didn't want to crawl under the car in winter for the transmission issue.
I purchased a new conductor plate along with new connector and took apart the valve body to see if something obvious came up.
I checked the resistance on all the solenoids and they are all within spec.
No concerns on the valve body, solenoids are good, plungers are all functioning with no binding, springs are good, with no major slop with the plunger fit into the barrels. Plus everything now is very clean.
Got the fluid (about 4 plus liters of Fuchs ATF4134) and filter changed out. The level is bang on when checking level at 80 C. I have the correct dipstick to check it.
Pretty much assumed that changing out the fluid, filter, a clean valve body and new conductor plate would solve my shifting issues.
Got in the car to drive around the block, and the same bucking and kicking is still happening and the transmission will not shift into a higher gear.
I do have a new brake light switch, which is not installed at this time, but when checking the old one with my code reader, it shows that the old brake switch is functioning.

I will definitely change the brake switch since I have a new one on hand, as this can apparently lead to my no shift symptoms, (but old one seems to be functioning)
I haven't had my Trans control unit out from under the passenger side footwell, but I'm not showing any codes.
I do have an MB2 code reader.

Any other suggestions on where else my problem could be, or what else to look at with code reader?

All comments appreciated.

CaliBenzDriver

It's a good bad one!

I'd genuinely like to try and help with your issue but so far I don't get it. There are two many conflicting information bundled, I am confused.


The limp mode without code,
the ATF service,
the brake switch,
the no-shift,
plus stuff I could not absorb,

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Pls write us (me & the wise men plus misc silent ghosts) :

1. a problem issue SUMMARY
2. a historical list of MAINTENANCE/repairs
3. a list of test & ACTIONS
4. a position statement about RESOLUTION of what you're seeking to do.

The best or something..!

tbeiler

Sorry for the confusion.

My problem is the transmission is not shifting into gear beyond 1st gear.
Starting off from rest everything seems good, when picking up speed to around 20 kms/hr, then the car jerks back and forth, but will not shift into next higher gear.
It seems to be stuck in first gear.

My dash shows warning messages showing an ABS malfunction, visit workshop, ESP malfunction, visit workshop and cruise control, drive to workshop. The ABS warning light is on as well.
My steering wheel is more difficult to turn when these dash lights are on, I'm assuming it is in limp mode.
Interesting though, is that the transmission does not jerk or buck when the dash messages are on, but the transmission still does not shift into the next higher gear.

I have so far,
Removed the valve body, disassembled, cleaned entire assembly, checked all solenoids, (all spec out good), plungers fit well into valve body with no excessive clearance, springs all have good tension, and then reassembled.
Purchased a new conductor plate and electrical connector and installed.
Changed transmission fluid and filter, the level is correct when trans fluid is at 80 C. I used Fuchs ATF4134 and put in about 4.5 liters.
I'm very confident that I didn't screw up anything during valve body reassembly.
I took loads of pictures and double checked everything upon reassembly, and used electronic service manual as a guide.

Previous to my transmission issue, I had my ECU repaired as I had ian intermittent no start condition, which has now been rectified.
Also note that the car has been sitting for about 2 years. It took a significant amount of time to get the ECU back, (November last year), and having to wait for better weather to address the transmission issue this spring.

So yesterday, I spent a bit of time to use my MB2 code reader to get at the fault codes.

Under ESP (Electronic Stability Program) heading two fault codes,
1) 6210 ABS anti lock braking system control and
2) 4746 one or more speed sensors have implausible values.

Under the SBC (Sensotronic brake control) heading, one fault code.
1) C2250 ABS control

Under ECM (Engine Control Module, CDI 3) heading, 3 fault codes,
1) 2209-000 No or incorrect CAN message from control unit N47-5 (ESP and BAS control module)
2) 0500-0 Test vehicle speed signal.
3) 2244-000, No or incorrect CAN message from control unit A1(instrument cluster)

Last item is the brake switch.
Through my reading on the forums, is that if the brake switch is faulty, this can cause the ABS faults and shifting issues to occur, which I do certainly have.
I do have a new brake light switch, which is not installed at this time, but when checking the current switch in the car with my code reader, it shows that the switch is functioning.

I'm hoping someone can provide guidance as to how to address these fault codes.

Thanks

juanmor40

During those 2 years was the covered, under a roof, or exposed to elements?

I would check wire harnesses for rodents, water intrusion, ground connections, CAN bus connection, etc

tbeiler

During the 2 year downtime, it was outside exposed to the elements, cleaned off mostly during snow season. I did have batteries out of the car and in the garage on trickle charge.
So far, I have not seen any rodent intrusion or damage, but certainly could be.
I did remove the one ground wire beside the transmission oil pan and cleaned contacts as well as one up in engine bay to shock tower and anywhere else I could find a ground wire inside the vehicle.
I also took out all the SAM units and ensured good connection in engine bay, passenger seat, rear trunk, cleaned off all contacts with electrical contact cleaner.
I checked all fuses in trunk, right passenger seat compartment, left side of dashboard, and in engine bay.
There was no water intrusion in the ECU area, rear trunk, or inside the vehicle anywhere.
I did all this before the bad weather hit last year, Oct/Nov

Heguli

Take a drive and check the wheel speed AND airgap with your scanner. I had similar issue where steering went stiff same time as the ABS light appeared. I took a short straight drive to see if all the speed sensors give the same speed value. They did, but didn't pay attention to if there were any fluctuation on them. Figured since I got speed from all four, sensors should be good.
Then I checked air gap, and all was good except for the right front where the gap was borderline ok/not ok. Bought a new magnetic ring, and while I started to change it, I noticed that there were some play on the wheel bearing. Not sure was that the issue, but with a new magnetic ring I had no more ABS light or stiff steering.
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tbeiler

Thanks for the tips.

With my MB2 code reader, I see how to check for the wheel speed, but have not seen where to check for air gap. Not sure if mine can read the air gap.

I googled the codes yesterday and they are pointing to wheel speed sensor / magnetic ring / signal wheel.

Will check wheel speeds with code reader, and look for fluctuation in values.

Quite possible that my magnetic rings are rusty from car having sat for a few years.

bbirdwell

A bad wheel speed sensor takes out the ABS and ESP as well as the SBC. The errors from the ABS are then transferred to the ECU which throws codes there. Start with the magnetic rings and sensors in each wheel. You will have to research to find what the recommended gap is between the sensor and the magnetic ring. This issue has been mentioned before on this forum.

tbeiler

Just saw a you tube video, where they replaced the rear magnetic rings. I think I can manage this work.
I looked on EPC, and got the part number for the magnetic ring. I think they call it the pulse ring.
However, I don't see a magnetic ring for the front. (I don't have the 4Matic)
Does the front sensor just sense the brake rotor?

Heguli

Front magnetic ring is built into the wheel bearing seal.

tbeiler

Thanks, appreciate it.
Did a bit more research after I asked the question and also saw that the front hubs contain the ABS ring and seal.
Just got back from a drive around the block, while hooked to up to the MB2 reader.
Appears that both front sensors are working fine, the code reader speed matches the speedo speed.
However on the rear, both left and right values do not match the speedo.
So pretty sure that both ABS magnetic rings need to be replaced.
Will start to take the wheels off to get at the drive shafts and order the rings.
Thanks for all the help, will report back, hopefully soon.

tbeiler

So, here is an update to changing out the rear ABS rings,
I changed out the LH side first. Upon shock component removal, was able to rotate the hub and the LH axle shaft pulled right out.
The old magnetic ring was completely disintegrated. Easy enough to get it off with a small hammer and short screwdriver. Cleaned off all the rust and got new ring on no problem.
Thinking that hey, this was easy, on to the right side, but... this one was not easy. I could not budge the axle shaft out of the hub.
After a bit of investigation, I got a large sledgehammer, screwed on the axle nut with the axle nut just proud of the shaft, wrapped a heavy cloth around the 32mm socket, and hit the cloth wrapped socket a few times.
Noticed on the 4 big hit the shaft started to move. I then unscrewed the axle nut a few more threads and repeated. The axle shaft was loose enough now that I could pull out the splined shaft by rotating the hub downwards.
Got the old ring off, it was in even worse shape than the left ring, but got it off and cleaned up the surfaces with wire wheel and some fine sandpaper.
Got the new ring installed and reassembled after I put new brake pads on both sides
Checked out speed sensor function with the MB2 scanner wheel speed sensors are working.
Can't believe I didn't get a picture of the finished install.
On to the next issue.