Dear All, Hi
Pls asking your help, situation as follows:
MB E350 / M272 / 2007 yb
Engine suddenly stopped when the vehicle was on the parking

OBD scaner has been connected found as following :
========================
Car Scanner ELM OBD2
Version: 1.98.6/400986/GP
DTC report
Connection profile: Mercedes-Benz OBD-II / EOBD + AT (CAN)Date: 5/1/2023 2:44:33 PM
============================
OBD-IIOBD-II
DTCs: 6
----------------------------
P2092 [0x2092]
Camshaft position (CMP) actuator A, bank 2 - circuit low
Status: Pending
----------------------------
P0560 [0x0560]
System voltage - malfunction
System Voltage Malfunction
Status: Pending
----------------------------
P2088 [0x2088]
Camshaft position (CMP) actuator A, bank 1 - circuit low
Status: Pending
----------------------------
P0100 [0x0100]
Mass air flow (MAF) sensor/volume air flow (VAF) sensor - circuit malfunction
Status: Pending
----------------------------
P2090 [0x2090]
Camshaft position (CMP) actuator B, bank 1 - circuit low
Status: Pending
----------------------------
P2094 [0x2094]
Camshaft position (CMP) actuator B, bank 2 - circuit low
Status: Pending
============================
Transmission control unitTransmission control unit
DTCs: 1
----------------------------
P2601 [0x2601]
Engine coolant pump motor - range/performance problem
Status: Test has not been completed, Validated and stored in non volatile memory

===============END===============

Found that the FUSE 43 burning all the time if ignition ON (key psn 2)
I guess that the problem in the wiring or same where short cut....

Pls, If anyone has a wiring diagram of the engine, please share it
any ideas what it can be, will be deeply appreciate

 

sounds like you small AUX battery may need to be replaced after evaluation.
It's placing a short circuit near the ECU that is going nuts from poor voltages.

Find dashboard battery: test voltage near 13V ??

 

Hi,
Could you pls advise where it is located ? Since I don't have an AUX battery under the hood.

 

If I am not mistaken the W211 aux battery was removed in the facelift version (w/o SBC). If you do not have a battery under the AC filter in the underhood compartment, your vehicle does not need one.

 

All right then it's not your AUX Battery!

Go figure what Fuse#43 circuit supplies for you.

Right now your automobile electricals are in crisis mode... keep your portable battery jump-pack handy ✌️

 

here is a link to the fuse boxes on the W211

https://fuse-box.info/mercedes-benz/...uses-and-relay

Fuse 43 seems to be the gateway to the ECU or even more (confused on how to read the description box)



if the ME is the ECU, I would disconnect the battery in the trunk, carefully disconnect the ECU on top of the engine, reconnect the battery and a new fuse 43 (15A). If it survives when switching the key to POS 2, I am afraid the ECU is shorted. If you are lucky and it does not survive, then you need to go back and trace down what else is on that circuit

Fingers crossed the problem is in the back.

 

Thanks to Juan we're going forward


Your 15Amp fuse only supplies the ECU and both of the SAM fuse boxes computers ... just that!

Have you noticed if water instrusions have started?
Check dampeness around driver footwell and trunk area.

Time to locate a multimeter....
Do we have a schematic to chart this line around the car?

 

Im deeply appreciate for your help!!
Yes, i though in the same way, so what i did
- disconnect battery
- connect Conector 2 from ECU (Connector 1, disconnected)
- checked between left leg of fuse (which is side of ECU) and nearest "-" and found BEEEEEEEPPPPP
So looks like it is a short cut somewhere....
if battery connected n ECU connected > fuse 43 burning

May be u have wiring diagrams for engine and from fuse 43 to rear SAM control unit

 

Thx to All )

Have you noticed if water instrusions have started? - NO, all is fine n dry
Ready any time

 

Ok so far we know your short circuit on fuse 43...
is not a bad AUX batt.
is not water intrusion

Then the question is:
Which from ECU, F-SAM, R-SAM is draining over 15A???

This where things are going to get messy.... l woud say let's try not to disturb ECU harness pins too much. Just look for oil in harness connector then concentrate on R-SAM then F-SAM.

If we pull the F-SAM before rear then no circuits are going to be actively powered. It will look like F-SAM is the bad guy when down the line simply has no power... (a sort of false positive).

That's why I would tackle R-SAM 1st to keep the car circuits integrity.

F-SAM is the most likely candidate for soaking oxidation between unprotected circuit traces.

++++
I'll be traveling for the remainder of this month ...
Best of MB Luck
🤞

> Shortcut to next step: TEST BULB !

1. Remove all power batteries.
2. connect the 12v test light bulb onto fuse downstream side and a power source : main batt or 9VDC.
3. Watch bulb glow while disconnecting:
4. R-SAM then ECU/F-SAM.

Swapping around should these 3 modules should help you point to a bad F-SAM -Or another fold towards closure.
FYI: at that stage ... this car is going to need module coding on Xentry.

 

Many thx for yor assistance & support !!!

Pls explain this step more, im not so good in electric job: connect the 12v test light bulb onto fuse downstream side and a power source : main batt or 9VDC.
downstream side and a power source - r u mean left n right side of fuse ?
Will revert with result asap

Wish u nice n safe travelling, if u will be close to Jacksonville, FL, pls welcome any time

 

Update on topic :

found that the ECU burned out

The question is what could burn the ECU?

 

found a solution. After 1 week troubleshooting about my E350 4matic 2008 wagon. One day I started and everything normal and suddenly shut down. After that try to crank and nothing. I try carb cleaner on intake and nothing, fuel also and nothing. Try swap fuses and relay and everything looks good. Begin searching cables around every part and everything looks good. Scan the car and have some codes about short circuit. I try everything also don’t hear nothing on fuel pump, don’t have fuel pressure, don’t have spark. Well I try everything and no a solution. At final I only begin to think that I only have one problem and is ECM. I try again on everything and same results. I purchase a circuit tester and begin testing one by one fuse by fuse. I found 2 bad fuses on entire car. 1st one is # 43 Control unit fuse, and second one #58 ignition coil. I put both news. Turn the key I the #43 instant burn. #58 still good. I check everything again. And #43 still burning fuses. I start again working on cables related on fuse #43. Throttle, camshaft position sensor, crankshaft position sensor, coils. First on I quit the maf sensor plug and clean using contact cleaner. Try again with a new fuse keeping the maf sensor plug quit and still burning the fuse then plug maf again. Then try right both camshaft position sensor plugs. I quit clean and try again with new fuse and turn the key and the fuse still good. So I have a signal the problem is related that two plugs right camshaft sensors plugs. I clean one and plug it and try again turning the key and fuse 43 still good and do again with the other right camshaft position sensor and fuse 43 still good. So my problem was a bad contact on the camshaft position sensor(my camshaft position sensor was replaced trying to find solution, I replace 4 two right and two left) after the fuse keep good I turn the key try crank and the car start good. Finally I found a solution after a week of brainstorming.