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I’ll try to keep this as short as possible. Recently got a p0730 P202B-002 & P2066 that showed after some slipping once the trans became hot. Sometimes a restart would make it work but then it seemed to get worse to the point I almost got stranded a mile from home.
Last weekend I replaced the conductor plate, filter and adapter, strained the 3 quarts from the pan (some spilled when I removed pan) and put 1.5 quarts in of new MB ATF.
Car appeared fixed on day one and about 15 miles of driving normally. Day two I decided to try 50% throttle then 75% and then it started acting up again. Not as bad as before but a couple times it would flare while in second gear, a couple times it would slip altogether in 1st and 2nd gear then at one point I got a p0730 code. I did the adaptation clear twice and allowed the car to cool. Now day three I drove it about 15 miles normally and it seemed fine other than a couple times there appeared to be some minor hesitation between gears 2 to 3. Then on about the 15th mile or a mile from home; it started to flare in second gear. At one point I popped it into M and it didn’t want to shift down to 1 while at a stop. A restart immediately fixed that tho.
I’ve read these trans are quite robust and although the fluid was rather dark when I changed out the CP, filter, etc., it did not smell burned nor were their any concerning deposits.
Only thing I didn’t do was the o-rings on the solenoids and I didn’t take apart the valve body either. I did test the solenoids through Star and they did pass the test.
I guess my question is, could it be the o-rings? Do I need to replace the TCC solenoid regardless of what Star said during the test? Could there be an issue with a bad spring in the valve body?
Car has 202k miles and I’ve owned it since 183k miles two summers ago. I got it cheap from a retired lady in real estate so I’m not pissed but of course I’d like to fix it. This only started after a local m113k “guru” helped me with a idler pulley install and power breaker it 3 times back to back to see if the sc belt would jump then a mile from his shop is when I experienced my first slip prior to me changing out the conductor plate and etc.
Any thoughts or suggestions is appreciated!
update: drove car yesterday and seemed fine til it was hot/not then it started to jump around in gears (at one point it shifted down to 2nd from 3rd but showed I was in 4th while in M) also it slipped a couple times and now I noticed it’s leaking on my driveway which is a first. I’m going to check the new connector at the CP later today.
the P0730 only tells the obd port there is a problem with the transmission-----to find the transmission fault you need factory or equal diagnostic software to scan the TCU---if not wait for the BS suggestions or buy another car
the P0730 only tells the obd port there is a problem with the transmission-----to find the transmission fault you need factory or equal diagnostic software to scan the TCU---if not wait for the BS suggestions or buy another car
sheesh, who pissed in your Cheerios?
I had that code in Star before I changed out the CP and it told me nothing different than the difference in speed from the output shaft.
What's the fill time for the clutch packs? K1/K2/K3 etc. Fill times are quantified in 20 millisecond increments. Fill time of 1 means 20ms (1 x 20ms) to engage the clutch pack(s); a fill time of 15 means 300ms (15 x 20ms) to engage the clutch pack(s) and is at the outer edge of acceptable wear. If you are still seeing rpm flares after changing the conductor plate *and* the fill times are 15 or greater, you need a rebuild of the transmission to replace the clutch packs.
Electrical faults that put the transmission into limp mode must be cleared using STAR; cycling the key has no affect. Mechanical/hydraulic faults will clear with a key off/on cycle but the underlying problem will not go away. This info is in the ATSG 722.6 transmission manual.
722.6 issues remain after replacing conductor plate
I just went through same issues and even replaced conductor plate, plug , etc., my issue was the shifter box (transmission range sensor) problem never came back once replaced the part. I also recommend make certain you SEAL transmission pan and gasket if doing any transmission service" DIY " at home repairs. I learned it hard way after leaking so bad all over my garage/drive twice. Yuk
Also, from what I've learned, not uncommon for transmission fluid to leak down wire harness and wick into transmission control unit that is under carpet on passenger side floor board. Doesn't hurt to just check and see if fluid has got inside control unit. If it has, you can remove it and clean it with electronic parts cleaner and fast drying spray. Then take qtips or paper towels to wipe any transmission fluid out and make sure it's all dry before reinstalling it
Once again if the OP had just short tested the TCU first he would have saved much time and denaro---but week end wendys love to spend on parts not required
What's the fill time for the clutch packs? K1/K2/K3 etc. Fill times are quantified in 20 millisecond increments. Fill time of 1 means 20ms (1 x 20ms) to engage the clutch pack(s); a fill time of 15 means 300ms (15 x 20ms) to engage the clutch pack(s) and is at the outer edge of acceptable wear. If you are still seeing rpm flares after changing the conductor plate *and* the fill times are 15 or greater, you need a rebuild of the transmission to replace the clutch packs.
Electrical faults that put the transmission into limp mode must be cleared using STAR; cycling the key has no affect. Mechanical/hydraulic faults will clear with a key off/on cycle but the underlying problem will not go away. This info is in the ATSG 722.6 transmission manual.
Once again, thank you Birdwell, I appreciate you taking the time to help explain and offer information. You actually helped me out a couple summers ago with a fuel issue I had when I first picked this car up.
So Initially I did run a test of the solenoids through Star and it said all solenoids passed (I forgot how it worded it) but I also read even if it passed the tests it still doesn’t hurt to replace the tcc solenoid because apparently it helps with better engagement or the Torque converter when shifting. Seems like the issues I experienced before it stop engaging into any gear was when it was shifting between the gears themselves.
for the hell of it, I let it sit over night the other night with the battery disconnected and the car drove fine all day the next day other than a couple less than smooth shifts from 2nd to 3rd but it drove so well I thought it was resolved. Unfortunately on my way and home out of no where, it had no gears and ended up having to tow it home with the help of my Tundra, a friend and a tow rope.
I took pilot connector off and found a bit of a fluid in there again so I cleaned it all up within electrical cleaner and unfortunately in attempt to make sure it that 7mm bolt was tight, I snapped the MF-er off so tomorrow going to go pick up another CP from Mercedes. Thankfully I have an account there so it’s not the end of the world. I do have a question tho, when you have the Valve body reinstalled, is there supposed to be any bit of gap between the connector on the Conductor plate and the transmission itself or should it be a tight, snug fit? On mine there was about an 1/8” gap I could feel when I stick my finger in there before I install the new plug with 7mm bolt. At first it was so bad I couldn’t get the 7mm to thread so I had to take it all apart and eventually got it but like I mentioned in my OP, it never leaked any ATF until I replaced the CP, filter, etc so I’m wondering if what I’m experiencing is issues from a small amount of fluid getting in through that gap with the connector because something is keeping it from seating properly.
Once again if the OP had just short tested the TCU first he would have saved much time and denaro---but week end wendys love to spend on parts not required
Nahhh, I just do it in attempt to add more sand to that already sandy **** ya got there bud
Obviously I wouldn’t be interacting with dbags like yourself if I had found something specific that resolved my issue after scanning it with SDS but yet here we are and I’m certainly not doing it for my health
I cant remember correctly, but there shouldn't be any issue with the small bolt and threading it in. Also, doublecheck that everything is seated correctly. Did you reset the adaptations after your service? This is mandatory after servicing the transmission.
I cant remember correctly, but there shouldn't be any issue with the small bolt and threading it in. Also, doublecheck that everything is seated correctly. Did you reset the adaptations after your service? This is mandatory after servicing the transmission.
Thank you for your input. And yes, I actually reset the adaptations twice but it didn’t change anything.
i just so happen to live near a guru who has a YT page working on m113k cars and he has a spare valve body so I’m going to try swapping out the valve bodies just to see if something broke inside and give that a shot.
I still find it strange that there’s a gap between the connector on the conductor plate and the transmission itself once everything has been reinstalled. When I go to reassemble this time,
I’m going to install the new connector before I reinstall the drain pan just to make sure it looks like everything is seated properly so when n go to tighten the 7mm I don’t have an issues getting it to thread properly.
With the original conductor plate (see black dirt on the valve body)
With the new conductor plate
thank you.
So my buddy dropped off the extra valve body and I bought another new conductor plate, a new tcc solenoid, another new connector for the harness as well as new solenoid o-rings
I’m going to install everything this weekend. I’m hoping this time there is less of a gap between the connector and the transmission where the harness plugs in with the new connector. I wish there was a spec on how tight the 7mm needs to be because that’s where the atf leaked from after I replaced the conductor plate so I tried making it tighter and ended up d splint off the 7mm in the conductor plate hence having to buy a 2nd new CP and the yellow connector.
One I have it all in and add the new MB ATF, before I test drive it, I’ll do the adaptation reset. Last time I test drove the car first before I did the reset.
Also is there any type of break in period you’re aware of where I need to baby it for a certain amount it mileage?
but last night I put in about 4.5 quarts of fluid with engine running and hot and here’s how the dipstick looked.
Photos are of both sides of the same fluid check: No matter what I did, I could not get a clear reading and I didn’t want to over fill so I quit for the night.
No offense intended but are you sure you are adding the transmission fluid to the transmission fill tube and not the engine tube? I realize this is unlikely but I've done stranger things working on my car when tired. Like the time I installed suspension parts on the passenger-side front, called it a night, then came out the next morning to realize the parts belonged on the driver's side.
I would expect four and a half quarts to put it on the dipstick; the 722.6 (W5A580) is listed as 9.3 liter fluid capacity in total.
Update on shifting issues after installing new parts again?
Originally Posted by OG2ner
Well everything’s together and no leaks present.
but last night I put in about 4.5 quarts of fluid with engine running and hot and here’s how the dipstick looked.
Photos are of both sides of the same fluid check: No matter what I did, I could not get a clear reading and I didn’t want to over fill so I quit for the night.
last year I serviced the trans after odd random gear shifts. Fixed for a few months, then it didn’t like me in manual 50% throttle and would shift to S mode. Apparently that’s a oil level sensor issue. Haven’t replaced that yet. Now the weird gear slipping under part throttle, random upshifts below 3k while part throttle acceleration is happening. Last year I replaced CP, TCC, both connectors, filter (no signs of seepage) no o-rings, no valve body filter.
could all that need replacing again??
I found out that when I use the "clear adaptions" in my Autel, it doesn't fully delete the adaptions. I have to go to each adaptation separately and delete the values there.
Could also be that clutch packs are on their way out? I don't know exactly how that would manifest
I found out that when I use the "clear adaptions" in my Autel, it doesn't fully delete the adaptions. I have to go to each adaptation separately and delete the values there.
Could also be that clutch packs are on their way out? I don't know exactly how that would manifest
As the clutch packs wear, fill time iterations increase. Makes sense as the plates are thinner and the gap between plates is larger so it takes longer to close the gaps.
03-02-2024, 10:01 AM
