New E--paint condition??
what's been your experience with the paint condtiion on brand new E's??
Has the paint needed much prep before doing a quality sealant or wax?
Has a careful and thorough carwash and wipedown with IPA (isopropyl alcohol and water mix) been enough to have a perfect clearcoat (no imbedded or stuck on top crud)? Or also add a polishing of the clearcoat with a non-abrasive polish for a jewel finish B/4 wax or sealant?
I had assumed (incorrectly) that any new car would have paint in excellent condition, minus any swirls that a sloppy dealer may have inflicted. Many new vehicles arrive with rail dust, iron particles, sap, pollen, water etchings etc etc imbedded in the clearcoat.
Have new Es needed claybar treatment?
Have they needed IronX treatment to get out minute iron particles?
My dealer estimates Es have a 4-6 week journey out in the elements before
arriving.
Thanks for sharing your experience regarding new E's paint condition.
I was very concerned how it was going to look, as I've seen some new
Benz's sitting in inventory at other dealers with the non-metallic black paint not looking so great. Grit, swirls, you name it.
Mine was so perfect that I couldn't bring myself to do my usual hand-washing for 12 days, knowing it would never look the same again without considerable effort!
So, I guess a little luck in the manufacturing and delivery process and a whole lot of careful attention and effort by your dealer in prepping the car
and you will have an equally thrilling experience when you see the car for the first time.
Of course, if the car sits at your dealer for any length of time that could cause problems. Dealers probably dry wipe the cars daily, for example.
Regards,
Don
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You can see defects easier on darker cars while swirls and holograms may be nearly invisible on lighter cars - but they do affect the shine and luster.
Dealers do a very poor job of prepping cars for delivery and most are OK. I've seen the "detailers" that the local Mercedes dealer uses. They are young (i.e. inexperienced) wear dirty uniforms and have a rag stuck in their pocket. All of them wear rings or watches and I have yet to see a clean microfiber cloth.
I can spend an hour washing and glazing a new car and you'll think it looks flawless. Compare it to a car that a decent detailer spent a half day on using Iron-X, a claybar and quality polishes, sealants and waxes and that dealership prepped car will look like a two year old abused car by comparison.
A good detail won't make a car look new, it'll make it look better than new.
It is all about expectations.
A new car from Germany comes with many of the panels covered in plastic. Any exposed parts will have been exposed to salt water air, rail dust, acid rain and a host of other contaminants.
Stripping off the plastic leaves residue that can only be removed using 3M adhesive remover or similar products - most shops don't use that and I'd bet that most of you will find bits of glue residue in the corners of the drip rails and other nooks and crannies - no matter how old your car is.
Somehow the raildust must be removed as it doesn't come off with washing either and looks like little tiny flecks of rust - visible primarily on very light cars. Then there is the fallour that must be mechanically removed (i.e. with a claybar)
Only when that is all removed can you rewash the car to actually leave a clean surface that you then need to polish and protect with a sealant and some sort of wax.
I can give a car a quick run through the carwash and pour glaze on it and it will look fantastic for a few weeks until the glaze comes off.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
Since I had hugged him in thanks for all his efforts, I guess he didn't feel the need to wave bye-bye.
BTW, let me emphasize to one and all - it was a manly, manly hug!
Hmmm, not sure why I felt the need to make that clear.
II.
Somehow the raildust must be removed as it doesn't come off with washing either and looks like little tiny flecks of rust - visible primarily on very light cars. Then there is the fallour that must be mechanically removed (i.e. with a claybar)
Only when that is all removed can you rewash the car to actually leave a clean surface that you then need to polish and protect with a sealant and some sort of wax.
I can give a car a quick run through the carwash and pour glaze on it and it will look fantastic for a few weeks until the glaze comes off.
http://www.detailersdomain.com/Aquar...Cut_p_327.html
I would give it the full treatment of Iron-x, clay, and ultra finish polish such as M205, before protection.
http://www.detailersdomain.com/Aquar...Cut_p_327.html
My 2010 also had some paint "Melt" on the inner lip (not seeable from outside) of the trunk lid. I actually was able to peel some off accidentally. My 2011 I don't think has the same problem.
Curious: Would the M-B dealer prep use sealant or wax?
If the holograms don't get get covered up with the carnauba, I'll take it for a professional detail.








Do you all use bug and tar as well? I tried the einzeit this past weekend and thought it OK, not the best I've seen though. The front bumper cover of my W212 is a small rock/bug/tar magnet.



