Where are you folks getting the alignment done? Dealer or independent shops? Either after lowering or otherwise? Thanks

 

I have always found that shops that are racing oriented seem to actually care about doing proper alignments. I have had so many bad alignments at cheaper shops and had to go back and pay for them over and over again. I will say the dealer has always done a good alignment for me even with my lowered suspension and the front crash bolts (most places have no clue what the crash bolts are or do even after you explain it to them)

 

Thanks for the insight. I just had my E lowered and is still under warranty and was wondering if it will cause any issues going to the dealer for an alignment job. Also, I have spacers front and back, should I remove them before going to the dealer?

Or should I locate a good independent shop. It was lowered on past Saturday and it is driving pretty straight for now. Thanks again for any input.

 

Count me among them. Will you explain?

 

might as well go hella flush on it to complete the look!

 

Well on the w203/w211 probably the w212 as well. the control arms have 2 groves in them and the factory bolts go in the center of them. Well Mercedes made crash/camber/castor bolts so if something gets damaged they can get the car to align back to spec. the bolts have a grove in them so that they can go in a few different ways to change suspension geometry.

https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...ml#post5080357

 

only take it to stealer if u have airmatic...
otherwise, find reputable alignment shop...

 

Crash bolts are only available for the front and are one only position (not adjustable) and provide a minimal .3 of one degree (1/8").

Fact is “Full front and rear wheel alignment” is no more!

Since the mid ‘90 model’s, with the ever increasing speed of vehicle assembly lines there has been no front or rear Camber (or front Caster) adjustment facility fitted OEM


Only current adjustment is front and rear Toe!

To attempt to return vehicle to factory specs to resolve costly premature inner edge tire wear, improve traction, and fix steering pull.

Many owners continually change tire brands or go from one MB Dealer or alignment shop to another trying to get it right/fix the problem!


We saw the need therefore "to fix it right the first time" by designing, developing, patenting (and re-instating from the 1990's) fully adjustable front (and rear) suspension for virtually all models.

The current K-MAC kits have up to 4 times the adjustment of these one only position offset bolts (both Positive or Negative). And unlike these one position bolts they can be accurately adjusted on car(under load) direct on alignment turntable (no need for labor intensive removal/replacement each time).
Ongoing, precise adjustment of both Camber and Caster settings if altering suspension height, fitting wide profile tires/wheels, curb knock damage or being able to quickly fine tune/change specs on race days (extra Negative/plus track width to go deeper into the corners/lower lap times). With the unique K-MAC patented design only requiring use of a single wrench/no disassembly.

For the rear, similar kits for precise Camber adjustment (with additional Toe to compensate for the new Camber facility). Importantly unlike the alternative rear adjustable Camber control arms available K-MAC kits do not move top of tire outwards - this reducing essential clearance top of tire to outer fender when adjusting to fix premature inner edge tire wear/improve rear traction.


Also instead of spherical bearings as used on control arms which prematurely pound out allowing metal to metal contact. At K-MAC we have developed long life elastomer bushings.


Bonus with the four front and four rear bushes is that they are also designed with twice the load bearing area and replace the highest wearing suspension bushings. And with K-MAC no special tools are required to fit.
Note (Product background re bushings): Majority OEM bushes have air voids to allow 2 axis movement. So control arms can travel through their required arcs without binding, locking up.


Essential with today’s modern designs of “multi-link” arms with different angle mount points!
Yet most “aftermarket” replacement bushes the industry standard is to eliminate these air voids in an attempt to improve both steering response and reduce wheel hop, loss of traction under brake and acceleration.


The opposite is often the case – the elimination of the air voids causes even more severe wheel hop, loss of traction through binding, locking up of arms.
K-MAC bushes – with 50 years now of bush technology are designed without the air voids but where needed with “full 2 axis movement”. Result is power to the ground – maximum traction/acceleration/braking - along with noticeably improved directional control and steering response for highway driving, lane changing.