I just bought this car about a month ago. I am dealing with a bad pull to the right.

It feels like the rear end is pulling to the left and I am having to compensate by steering to the left. It feels like I am going down the road slightly sideways with the rear end tracking to the left.

I took it to one shop and they put it on their rack, the rear numbers came in at.

Camber
L R
-1.3 -1.0

Toe
L R
0.0 +.24

Caster
both wheels where only about .02 diff.



The place I took to said with those numbers the alignment shouldn't cause a pull and that it had to be the tires.
They wanted to do more diag on the tires with some sort of laser tire machine on a different day, but I didn't go back.
At home I swapped the fronts side to side, drove it for a few days, no difference at all. I swapped the rears, again no difference.

I get really annoyed when places just automatically say that it's the tires because they don't feel like trying to figure out the real problem.

Based on what I have read here and other places, the rear camber isn't adjustable without the kmac kit or other adjustable camber arms.
As for the toe, I think my problem is there.

Other things.
I can't see any accident damage on the car.
I checked all 4 wheels for sticking calipers and don't see any issue.
Bearings seem okay.
Yes I am aware of road crown, this is not a road crown problem.
Car has 36k miles on it.

Any ideas?

I bought some triple square sockets and was considering messing with the rear toe or I had in mind to bring it to a different alignment shop this week and insist they set the numbers equal on the toe. I really need to get this running straight, driving it is very difficult as I am constantly correcting the steering.

 

Just had my CPO 2012 E350 Sport alignment checked this week.

 

Don't know what happened to the picture of alignment report I attached to post ???

 

 

Thanks for the pic of your alignment.
How did it drive before the alignment?
How does it drive now?

I see you had almost 0 left toe and they put +.13 on both rear toes.

 

I had the same alignment issue with my leased returned '11 E550 coupe. The local dealer resolved the issue by installing slotted bolts to the front end that allow a bit more alignment adjustment than the factory parts.

 

I decided to take it this morning to a local shop called Chantilly Steering. The car is much better now. They adjusted the toe in the back and the front. They put some measurement numbers down on the receipt paper, because the alignment machine printer wasn't working so I can't attach a nice image.
Next time I need an alignment I am going back to Chantilly Steering. They really took the time to make sure they got it right.

On another note, I can not recommend a Manassas, VA shop named COHO Automotive. They charged me $50 to read the numbers off the alignment and promptly said "it's the tires". This is probably the 4th different place I have gone to in the last few years when experiencing a pull where they insist it is the tires. Really I would have been very happy had they charged me the $149 alignment price and actually adjusted the toe measurements. I guess they see numbers and assume they are in spec. Spec isn't always good.

 

Before alignment I had very slight pull to the left on the highway. It was perceptible though not terrible, BUT, I hoped the dealership I'd just bought the car from would include the alignment, which they did. I'd only bought the car (CPO) four days before.

I'd learned that CPO "certification" does not include an alignment. From my last CPO purchase, a BMW 335 Convertible, I got "burned"'by that lack of an alignment check because it drove fine, but the inside of drivers side tire was bald within four months. So that meant a new tire and alignment on that car.

This time around I wanted to avoid that and my dealer took great care of me.

 

Fact is “Full front and rear wheel alignment” is no more!


Since the mid ‘90 model’s, with the ever increasing speed of vehicle assembly lines there has been no front or rear Camber (or front Caster) adjustment facility fitted OEM


Only current adjustment is front and rear Toe!

To attempt to return vehicle to factory specs to resolve costly premature inner edge tire wear, improve traction, and fix steering pull the only current alternative for Camber and Caster is to fit offset, slotted bolts (for the front only). But these are inaccurate - one only position bolts - offering a minimal .3 of one degree adjustment (3mm / 1/8”).

It’s no wonder many owners continually change tire brands or go from one MB Dealer or alignment shop to another trying to get it right/fix the problem!


We saw the need therefore "to fix it right the first time" by designing, developing, patenting (and re-instating from the 1990's) fully adjustable front (and rear) suspension for virtually all models.

The current K-MAC kits have up to 4 times the adjustment of these one only position offset bolts (both Positive or Negative). And unlike these one position bolts they can be accurately adjusted on car(under load) direct on alignment turntable (no need for labor intensive removal/replacement each time).


Providing ongoing full, precise adjustment of both Camber and Caster settings if altering suspension height, fitting wide profile tires/wheels, curb knock damage or being able to quickly fine tune/change specs on race days (extra Negative/plus track width to go deeper into the corners/lower lap times). With the unique K-MAC patented design only requiring use of a single wrench/no disassembly.

For the rear, similar kits for precise Camber adjustment (with additional Toe to compensate for the new Camber facility). Importantly unlike the alternative rear adjustable Camber control arms available K-MAC kits do not move top of tire outwards - this reducing essential clearance top of tire to outer fender when adjusting to fix premature inner edge tire wear/improve rear traction.


Also instead of spherical bearings as used on control arms which prematurely pound out allowing metal to metal contact. At K-MAC we have developed long life elastomer bushings.


Bonus with the four front and four rear bushes is that they are also designed with twice the load bearing area and replace the highest wearing suspension bushings. And with K-MAC no special tools are required to fit.


Note (Product background re bushings): Majority OEM bushes have air voids to allow 2 axis movement. So control arms can travel through their required arcs without binding, locking up.


Essential with today’s modern designs of “multi-link” arms with different angle mount points!


Yet most “aftermarket” replacement bushes the industry standard is to eliminate these air voids in an attempt to improve both steering response and reduce wheel hop, loss of traction under brake and acceleration.


The opposite is often the case – the elimination of the air voids causes even more severe wheel hop, loss of traction through binding, locking up of arms.


K-MAC bushes – with 50 years now of bush technology are designed without the air voids but where needed with “full 2 axis movement”. Result is power to the ground – maximum traction/acceleration/braking - along with noticeably improved directional control and steering response for highway driving, lane changing.

 

I just got a factory authorized front strut replacement. You might have yours checked.