Help me choose a used E350
New to this forum but not new to forums in general. I research most of the stuff I buy and put a considerable research effort before buying anything over $1000. I have yet to be disappointed with anything I have bought after a thorough research for the last 10+ years. I am hoping you guys will be able to assist me my next major purchase, a Benz.
Background: My current vehicle is a 1996 Range Rover 4.6 HSE. This car has been a worry free car for me contrary from what I have read online. I bought the car in year 2000 with 43K miles on it. Current mileage on the car is 138K. No major issue except wear and tear on breaks, rotors and tires. All have been replaced twice. I have experienced issues with the electronic air suspension and based on the recommendation on the Range Rover forum, I replaced with a manual suspension in 2005 and I have had no issues since then. I have done all the recommended maintenance until I hit 80k and since then the only maintenance I done is change the oil every 3000 miles, change cabin filter and air filter but that is it. Car still rides very nice. I hoping any MB E350 class I buy would give a trouble free ride like my RR did.
I am looking into buying a used E350 2010-2014 with a very low mile, certainly not more than 50K miles but most likely at around 40k or below. I live in Silver Spring, MD USA and have seen quite a few with low miles and within my price range which is under $30k US. I may spend a bit more for the 2014 model. CPO would be nice but the price goes up considerably higher, so not sure if it is worth it if I buy one with 40k miles on it.
Not sure what the major differences are between 2010 -2013. They look the same from the exterior and the 2014 looks it has been redesigned with minor changes to the exterior. I am in the preliminarily stages of my research so I have not l test drive any of the models. I am still trying to learn the differences between this models. Reliability is very important to me as this will be my only means of transportation so I don't want to spend my time or money at the dealership.
Can you please educate ma a bit the differences between this model and which one I should concentrate my research? I am looking into a good balance between reliability, interior, appointments, ride handling etc...
Also what is the major difference between the luxury 4Matic model and the sport 4Matic model?
Thank you all for your assistance, much appreciated!
AFAIK, there are no big changes before 2014 which is the facelift year. I think they went to direct injection in 2012 or 13, somebody can chime in for sure. They upped the HP a bit, but honestly, I have no complaints with mine with 268hp. I step on the gas and it moves, fast. Very easy to be up to 80 and not realize it. These cars handle very well with a super solid feel on the road. Not bad for a car that weighs in over 4k Lbs.
I routinely get around 21-22 mpg on premium, doubt it would be much, if any less if I ran regular, but if you want to drive one, you should use premium which is the recommended grade.
Not being rude, just lots of recent examples for you to read through. Your dilemma is very common, and the good folks here have offered up advice many times.
You say you like to put considerable research into your purchases...you can also hit Wikipedia, Car and Driver, and a quick Google query...they will provide you many differences between the model years and answer 99% of your questions.
I can sympathize with your Rover days...just sold our 2007 Range Rover Supercharged. Great vehicle, other than a few issues, including replacing a couple of air shocks when the bags cracked...easy enough to do myself in the driveway. I've been keeping an eye on the new Rovers in hopes of getting one soon if the used costs fall enough...wife just got her new car, daughter is taking my W212, and I'm debating a few options for my new ride (GLS 550, new F350 Super Duty, or the new Rover).
Last edited by fosterelli; May 28, 2016 at 11:11 AM.
AFAIK, there are no big changes before 2014 which is the facelift year. I think they went to direct injection in 2012 or 13, somebody can chime in for sure. They upped the HP a bit, but honestly, I have no complaints with mine with 268hp. I step on the gas and it moves, fast. Very easy to be up to 80 and not realize it. These cars handle very well with a super solid feel on the road. Not bad for a car that weighs in over 4k Lbs.
I routinely get around 21-22 mpg on premium, doubt it would be much, if any less if I ran regular, but if you want to drive one, you should use premium which is the recommended grade.
In 2014 they did the facelift and in late 2014 production they strengthened the body to get better frontal crash ratings.
Not being rude, just lots of recent examples for you to read through. Your dilemma is very common, and the good folks here have offered up advice many times.
You say you like to put considerable research into your purchases...you can also hit Wikipedia, Car and Driver, and a quick Google query...they will provide you many differences between the model years and answer 99% of your questions.
I can sympathize with your Rover days...just sold our 2007 Range Rover Supercharged. Great vehicle, other than a few issues, including replacing a couple of air shocks when the bags cracked...easy enough to do myself in the driveway. I've been keeping an eye on the new Rovers in hopes of getting one soon if the used costs fall enough...wife just got her new car, daughter is taking my W212, and I'm debating a few options for my new ride (GLS 550, new F350 Super Duty, or the new Rover).
As far as CPO vs not CPO, you make your choices. I decided to go CPO, because 1- I didn't want headaches and 2- I'm an attorney and I once represented a used car dealer who sold hi end dogs- I think you have a better shot at getting a clean car via the CPO route. For instance, I know my car was always dealer maintained "by the book" and had no major issues before my purchase. I also know that before I bought the car the battery was replaced and a new set of tires was installed.
I was deciding between a 2012 and a 2013 which was somewhat costlier but it had more equipment. The $ was not an issue- I just happened to like the color combination on the 2012 better- Lunar Blue with beige interior. The 2013 was silver with a black interior (not a fan of a black interior). If the 2013 was the Lunar blue, I would have taken it. I really did not see any difference between the 2012 and 2013 models. PS- I bought the luxury, not the sport model. I went through the BMW thing, and now I just want to be comfortable and as one would surmise the sport rides harder.
Good luck!
Last edited by Zavato; May 28, 2016 at 01:10 PM.
Trending Topics
As far as CPO vs not CPO, you make your choices. I decided to go CPO, because 1- I didn't want headaches and 2- I'm an attorney and I once represented a used car dealer who sold hi end dogs- I think you have a better shot at getting a clean car via the CPO route. For instance, I know my car was always dealer maintained "by the book" and had no major issues before my purchase. I also know that before I bought the car the battery was replaced and a new set of tires was installed.
I was deciding between a 2012 and a 2013 which was somewhat costlier but it had more equipment. The $ was not an issue- I just happened to like the color combination on the 2012 better- Lunar Blue with beige interior. The 2013 was silver with a black interior (not a fan of a black interior). If the 2013 was the Lunar blue, I would have taken it. I really did not see any difference between the 2012 and 2013 models. PS- I bought the luxury, not the sport model. I one through the BMW thing, and now I just want to be comfortable and as one would surmise the sport rides harder.
Good luck!
As far where I would buy used, I am only buying from reputable local dealerships. Not necessarily a Benz dealer but a new car dealership in general, like a BMW, Acura, Lexus dealer etc. They seem to have the best price and cars with low mileage that were traded-in.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
All the information is in the carfax reports, most ppl who return a car after 2 or 3 years, leased not bought because there is no reason to return a 3 year Benz with a year of warranty left, for most people at least
Last edited by kash2014; May 28, 2016 at 01:31 PM.
Good luck with your purchase.
Last edited by retguy; May 30, 2016 at 08:37 AM.
Newbie question: I terms of P1 vs P2 package, what are the main differences? I am big into quality audio so I will need some nice tunes in the E350.
Newbie question: I terms of P1 vs P2 package, what are the main differences? I am big into quality audio so I will need some nice tunes in the E350.
If we could somehow fit my Revel speakers and Pass electronics into my car, and add my Linn TT, Sim/Bricasti digital and Mac tuner into my car, that would be something else entirely
That said, my P1's sond system gets the job done




As for differences, the Luxury versions ride more comfortably and subtlely have a more tradtional interior and exterior than the Sports version. Not very many luxury versions out there, but worth considering if you can find one for comparison.
On the steering column, they reversed the positions of the turn signal stalk (now on top, 10 o'clock position) and the cruise stalk (now on the bottom, 8 o'clock position). Not knowing what you drive now and your preference, this could go either way. For me in my 2012 pre-facelift, it took a fair amount of time to change my muscle memory. Not a biggie, though.
The horizontal line of buttons (heated seats x2, ventilated seats x2, rear sunshade, parking sensors and ECO) on the center stack was beautified. I think they look very sharp.
The gauge lay output also changed. In my opinion, the big change was moving from 5 pods to 3. Specifically, the clock was moved from the gauges to the top of the center stack. Again, I think this change was well-executed.
There were numerous other int and ext changes, but I think most were minor or near invisible to the average Joe.
Happy shopping! I vote for at least a '12 and maybe a '14 if the up-charge isn't crazy.

I can swing for the 2014 if that is the best year for the E350 but in reliability, performance, ride quality. In my area the difference is about $5-6K more for the 2014. I didn't like the face lift initially but, I am starting to like it. The number one concern for me is reliability. I want to buy the most reliable E350. My wife wants to go the ML350 route. She won't object if I heart on the E350 but at the very least I have to research and drive that car as well.
Time to grab a beer and read the threads suggested by EL Cid now.
Good luck
Last edited by dvdit; May 30, 2016 at 12:57 PM.

https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w212/315195-w212-e-class-reliability-stats-asap.html
Michael Karesh, the promoter / owner / reviewer of "truedelta.com" as well as a MBworld forum member had this to say about the E class. Accordingly the 2010 and 2014 models are the most reliable in this limited study.




