gica69

This is what she first used for jump starting, cannot believe it. Got to check what the top wire is. Don't think it's a positive.

So she was parked and waiting in the car for my kid to finish soccer practice and when she attempted to start the car she heard the quick succession clicking sound of a low battery. So she got someone to jump start and at first she did the auxiliary battery connector in front of the battery with the sliding door that exposes the red connector and that didn't work so she removed the battery cover and jumped it straight at the battery and that started it but with lots of issues.
The car start and drives fine, tranny is fine, have messages on the dash:
Front right SRS Malfunction Serv. Required
Front Left SRS Malfunction.........
Tire Pressure Monitor Inoperative
PRE_SAFE Inoperative See Operator's Manual
The seat control buttons don't work, the dome lights and sunroof buttons don't work actually all the controls up there are out.
The radio is dead the ON button won't power up the display screen.
The air control unit works fine.
And upon checking with a Autel scanner I have lots of issues or I get messages such as Battery Voltage too Low for ADC, unknown version of control module, tester not communicating with control module on a lot of different controls mostly for the ones related to the stuff that doesn't work
Doors and windows controls are fine.
Mirror shows the compass but don't know if the garage opener buttons work.
I get messages like the output for the center high-mounted brake light has a malfunction. There is a short to positive or an open circuit. Get that for left/right tail lamp, left/right license plate lamp Left/right license plate lamp, inner left/right stop and tail lamp
Front SAM is fine
Rear SAM lots of errors Control Unit rear signal acquisition and actuation module has a malfunction
Replaced the battery with a good one and placed the old one to charge overnight
I tried erasing the error codes fro the scan but most come back
I have no codes that show in OBDII only in the AUTEL SCAN
I will not take it to the dealer I have to at least figure out the radio and SRS issues, plus the other 2 from the dash. I might contact some people with better scanners in case I need the ECM reprogrammed.
But I am seeking people with advise other than take it to the dealer.
Thanks in advance.

kajtek1

Lot of those errors could be low-voltage triggered and SRS codes need SD to clear.
Unfortunately jumping the wheeled computers we have is a risky business and hopefully you don't have fried computer. How much exactly Autotel tells you?

KEY08

Sorry for the trouble. My wife poured windshield washer fluid in my brake reservoir one time and I didn't know until the brakes locked up. I feel your pain.
What are we looking at in your photo? That doesn't appear to be on the side the battery is located is it? So she just grabbed onto these terminals and never really used the actual designed jumper post and positive copper blade under the hatch?

thefisch

That looks like the top of the F32 pre fuse box - see photo on page here for F32. I bet the fuses inside busted when the jump was applied to the wrong points.



The positive jump point is actually the tab just above the yellow cap in your photo. That is what sticks up through the red flap that you slide. The negative you want to use in the post on the frame (just below coolant reservoir in photo above).

Here are some threads on F32 replacement. The first one has a link to instructions. Hopefully the old fuses did their job and a replacement fuse box will fix it or at least it is a starting point to see if there are other issues.
https://mbworld.org/forums/attachmen...refuse-box.pdf
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...ml#post6865530
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...ghts-dash.html

KEY08

gica69

Ok so I opened up the PreFuse box or F32 or whatever it's called and found the 150A fused blown. It's the grey one on top. So I am looking to buy it and replace it. These are Midi Fuses and can be replaced. Not an easy task to open the actual box but once opened you can repair it and save 250 wholesale price. I am sure that will fix some or all issues. That is exactly the extension of the bolt where the positive was placed. So thank god for the fuse. WHERE DO YOU BUY THESE. Are the quick or slow fuses? Thanks

thefisch

Kudos to you for pulling it out and checking. When you get a chance, please post some pics of the removal or reinstall to help others. There aren't any DIY stories on the forum for the F32 prefuse block that I've found. Only some stories from folks who have gotten the entire fuse block replaced by a mechanic.

The video linked in one of the threads above mentions being able to buy these fuses at Radio Shack when they were open. So you're probably stuck looking online. Maybe try an auto parts store as they are common. Mercedes does not sell these fuses separately from what I've read. So there is no info on fuse types.

dbldpr

I had a friend that did the same thing on her Mercedes wagon. After putting windshield fluid in brake reservoir it made in look like a slurpy. Cost her $9,000 at the dealer to replace the brake system because they could not flush it out. Expensive mistake.

konigstiger

150A bolt on fuse, check with dealer. See attachment for assignment.

thefisch

Looks like the blown fuse is labeled as 'f163' on that attachment.

OP, how did you identify blown fuse? Continuity check?

Heisenberg5070

and this is why i dont let my wife drive my car

gica69

Success all back to normal erased some leftover scan codes, and all inside back and functional, codes in dash gone including the SRS
I ended up ordering a 150A 32V fuse from AMAZON but I actually temporarily soldered the broken one and tested it to make sure that was the problem and voila all back to normal. For The Fisch I read the thread of the guy in 2016 that took his car to the dealer and paid $650 plus tax and tow fees for a $7 fuse. He could have just opened it up and checked it with a millimeter for continuity. The Autel MaxiDiag Elite MD802 that I checked the car with is a pretty handy $200 scanner that does additional scanning than a regular OBDII scanner it goes into details has a preset option for auto scan or individual scan of any car based on auto VIN detection, or selection of model from list etc. It sees everything that is available from the top of the line models down. So for instance lets say you have cylinder misfire that OBDII doesn't see caused by a coil, the scan option will see it, point out the cyl# and clear it after the repairs are done and it doesn't reset the obdII readiness area for smog or whatever purposes which happens if you erase via OBDII option. I will try to make a video of the F32 box removal, disassembly some fuse testing etc.