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I took over an off leased 2012 E350 @75K miles from one of my relitives last year. This car had serviced by MB dealer since new. A few weeks back I did an oil change since the service light was on, and I also found that the front passenger side axle seal is leaking and the oil leaks from behind crank pulley (attached a picture, is the seal leaking?). I am looking for help for you guys
Anyone has DIYed W212 front axle seal replacement? I could only find DIY for W211 where pulling the axle off is the hardest part of the job due to limited access.
Is the W211 DIY similar to W212 DIY? Can the gear oil be filled from the whole that fits the axle since there is no fill bolt?
What tool can be used for holding the crank pulley (please see attached picture)? Where I can buy this tool? Look at the size of the wholes/gaps, I don't think the ones sold from Ebay/Amazon will fit.
Can I just impact it off without the holding tool if get the fan and radiator off? How hard to get the fan and radiator off?
Any input/advise is appreciated.
First the oil leaks in engine bay with all the swirling air have mysterious way to show long way from actual leak.
So clean the oil and recheck after some driving. MB main seals don't leak unless very, very old so chances are you have a leak on upper part and just showing on the pulley.
Than if you really need to take the pulley off, MB has special tool for it. Check with dealer or ebay.
First the oil leaks in engine bay with all the swirling air have mysterious way to show long way from actual leak.
So clean the oil and recheck after some driving. MB main seals don't leak unless very, very old so chances are you have a leak on upper part and just showing on the pulley.
Than if you really need to take the pulley off, MB has special tool for it. Check with dealer or ebay.
Took a few more pictures from the back and under the pulley. Oil leaks all the way to the oil pan.
Is the main seal leaking or something else?
With 1/2 engine covered with oil, how can you tell where it starts?
Wash the darn thing, stuff some paper towels whenever you can and keep checking where new oil shows.
That looks like dried out oil, so could be you spilled some during crankcase fill?
With 1/2 engine covered with oil, how can you tell where it starts?
Wash the darn thing, stuff some paper towels whenever you can and keep checking where new oil shows.
That looks like dried out oil, so could be you spilled some during crankcase fill?
It's not the refill. It's dry around the filter area.
I've cleaned it a bit, will see where the oil comes again.
Now I need to pay attention on the axle seal as you can see from the pictures that the front diff is coverd by oil. And oil drifted to the transmission.
How bad is it?
Any tip how to remove the axle from the gear since you have done it on W211? The whole is even smaller that W211, would the 3 inches pipe clamp fit?
Is the axle seal part number 0139971946? Can I just fill it with any 75w90 GL-4 Ggear oil?
Assuming the pulley in a 11 E350 is the same I have the tool. Need a deep impact socket and extension and a breaker bar with 4 foot pipe extension. Getting the replacement bolt to proper torque and then additional 90 degrees is a challenge. Paint mark the bolt and you will be good.
Assuming the pulley in a 11 E350 is the same I have the tool. Need a deep impact socket and extension and a breaker bar with 4 foot pipe extension. Getting the replacement bolt to proper torque and then additional 90 degrees is a challenge. Paint mark the bolt and you will be good.
Where did you order the tool? what is the part number? What does it look like?
Have you done the seal or just pulley replacement? Did you have to take anything off for this job?
This is the link mine looks like. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...334e5ccd64.jpg
Well I have been searching for a M276 tool without luck. Weird.
You should call KTC Tools and ask them. If you cannot find one buy a new balancer at dealer and keep receipt. Tape it off to not get it scratched. Buy a replacement bolt too so you are not just using their supply for free .
Go to welder and have one made. Should be easy to weld some tabs that fit in the holes, slots or grooves however the pulley is designed. Show pics of other diy ones.
About the axle, I did not pull mine for boot replacement, but members add later to my thread.
MB has special clamp, but suppose 3" exhaust U-bolt works to attach slide hammer to the inner CV joint housing and pull it out.
The old fashioned way of holding the crankshaft was sticking big screwdriver into inspection hole to hold transmision converter, but newer engines have big torque and that is no longer recommend.
Still you can try it to see how much trouble torque you are dealing with.
On my diesel I used 5 foot wrench extension for bolt removal and I am strong man
Well I have been searching for a M276 tool without luck. Weird.
You should call KTC Tools and ask them. If you cannot find one buy a new balancer at dealer and keep receipt. Tape it off to not get it scratched. Buy a replacement bolt too so you are not just using their supply for free .
Go to welder and have one made. Should be easy to weld some tabs that fit in the holes, slots or grooves however the pulley is designed. Show pics of other diy ones.
Left a message to KTC tools, will see what they come back.
I also called local Mercedes deal for the tool and was told that they don't sell this tool .
Originally Posted by kajtek1
About the axle, I did not pull mine for boot replacement, but members add later to my thread.
MB has special clamp, but suppose 3" exhaust U-bolt works to attach slide hammer to the inner CV joint housing and pull it out.
The old fashioned way of holding the crankshaft was sticking big screwdriver into inspection hole to hold transmision converter, but newer engines have big torque and that is no longer recommend.
Still you can try it to see how much trouble torque you are dealing with.
On my diesel I used 5 foot wrench extension for bolt removal and I am strong man
Do you mean holding the flexplate?
I do have a 5 foot extension and 3/4" wrench
He needs something made like this so then he can insert a socket to get bolt off...with a long extension of course. Getting it back on properly is a chore too.
Update: ATP 205 re-seal/$16 fixed the oil leak instead of replacing the front seal.
I dropped a bottle of atp 205 into the engine then now no more oil leak
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