help for Crank pulley and front axle removal
#1
help for Crank pulley and front axle removal
I took over an off leased 2012 E350 @75K miles from one of my relitives last year. This car had serviced by MB dealer since new. A few weeks back I did an oil change since the service light was on, and I also found that the front passenger side axle seal is leaking and the oil leaks from behind crank pulley (attached a picture, is the seal leaking?). I am looking for help for you guys
Anyone has DIYed W212 front axle seal replacement? I could only find DIY for W211 where pulling the axle off is the hardest part of the job due to limited access.
Is the W211 DIY similar to W212 DIY? Can the gear oil be filled from the whole that fits the axle since there is no fill bolt?
What tool can be used for holding the crank pulley (please see attached picture)? Where I can buy this tool? Look at the size of the wholes/gaps, I don't think the ones sold from Ebay/Amazon will fit.
Can I just impact it off without the holding tool if get the fan and radiator off? How hard to get the fan and radiator off?
Any input/advise is appreciated.
Anyone has DIYed W212 front axle seal replacement? I could only find DIY for W211 where pulling the axle off is the hardest part of the job due to limited access.
Is the W211 DIY similar to W212 DIY? Can the gear oil be filled from the whole that fits the axle since there is no fill bolt?
What tool can be used for holding the crank pulley (please see attached picture)? Where I can buy this tool? Look at the size of the wholes/gaps, I don't think the ones sold from Ebay/Amazon will fit.
Can I just impact it off without the holding tool if get the fan and radiator off? How hard to get the fan and radiator off?
Any input/advise is appreciated.
#2
MBWorld Fanatic!
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: V E G A S
Posts: 9,092
Received 1,736 Likes
on
1,384 Posts
1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
First the oil leaks in engine bay with all the swirling air have mysterious way to show long way from actual leak.
So clean the oil and recheck after some driving. MB main seals don't leak unless very, very old so chances are you have a leak on upper part and just showing on the pulley.
Than if you really need to take the pulley off, MB has special tool for it. Check with dealer or ebay.
So clean the oil and recheck after some driving. MB main seals don't leak unless very, very old so chances are you have a leak on upper part and just showing on the pulley.
Than if you really need to take the pulley off, MB has special tool for it. Check with dealer or ebay.
#3
First the oil leaks in engine bay with all the swirling air have mysterious way to show long way from actual leak.
So clean the oil and recheck after some driving. MB main seals don't leak unless very, very old so chances are you have a leak on upper part and just showing on the pulley.
Than if you really need to take the pulley off, MB has special tool for it. Check with dealer or ebay.
So clean the oil and recheck after some driving. MB main seals don't leak unless very, very old so chances are you have a leak on upper part and just showing on the pulley.
Than if you really need to take the pulley off, MB has special tool for it. Check with dealer or ebay.
Is the main seal leaking or something else?
#4
MBWorld Fanatic!
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: V E G A S
Posts: 9,092
Received 1,736 Likes
on
1,384 Posts
1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
With 1/2 engine covered with oil, how can you tell where it starts?
Wash the darn thing, stuff some paper towels whenever you can and keep checking where new oil shows.
That looks like dried out oil, so could be you spilled some during crankcase fill?
Wash the darn thing, stuff some paper towels whenever you can and keep checking where new oil shows.
That looks like dried out oil, so could be you spilled some during crankcase fill?
The following users liked this post:
mercy-me (08-16-2018)
#5
I've cleaned it a bit, will see where the oil comes again.
Now I need to pay attention on the axle seal as you can see from the pictures that the front diff is coverd by oil. And oil drifted to the transmission.
How bad is it?
Any tip how to remove the axle from the gear since you have done it on W211? The whole is even smaller that W211, would the 3 inches pipe clamp fit?
Is the axle seal part number 0139971946? Can I just fill it with any 75w90 GL-4 Ggear oil?
#6
Assuming the pulley in a 11 E350 is the same I have the tool. Need a deep impact socket and extension and a breaker bar with 4 foot pipe extension. Getting the replacement bolt to proper torque and then additional 90 degrees is a challenge. Paint mark the bolt and you will be good.
#7
Assuming the pulley in a 11 E350 is the same I have the tool. Need a deep impact socket and extension and a breaker bar with 4 foot pipe extension. Getting the replacement bolt to proper torque and then additional 90 degrees is a challenge. Paint mark the bolt and you will be good.
Have you done the seal or just pulley replacement? Did you have to take anything off for this job?
This is the link mine looks like.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...334e5ccd64.jpg
Trending Topics
#9
#10
Well I have been searching for a M276 tool without luck. Weird.
You should call KTC Tools and ask them. If you cannot find one buy a new balancer at dealer and keep receipt. Tape it off to not get it scratched. Buy a replacement bolt too so you are not just using their supply for free .
Go to welder and have one made. Should be easy to weld some tabs that fit in the holes, slots or grooves however the pulley is designed. Show pics of other diy ones.
You should call KTC Tools and ask them. If you cannot find one buy a new balancer at dealer and keep receipt. Tape it off to not get it scratched. Buy a replacement bolt too so you are not just using their supply for free .
Go to welder and have one made. Should be easy to weld some tabs that fit in the holes, slots or grooves however the pulley is designed. Show pics of other diy ones.
#11
MBWorld Fanatic!
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: V E G A S
Posts: 9,092
Received 1,736 Likes
on
1,384 Posts
1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
About the axle, I did not pull mine for boot replacement, but members add later to my thread.
MB has special clamp, but suppose 3" exhaust U-bolt works to attach slide hammer to the inner CV joint housing and pull it out.
The old fashioned way of holding the crankshaft was sticking big screwdriver into inspection hole to hold transmision converter, but newer engines have big torque and that is no longer recommend.
Still you can try it to see how much trouble torque you are dealing with.
On my diesel I used 5 foot wrench extension for bolt removal and I am strong man
MB has special clamp, but suppose 3" exhaust U-bolt works to attach slide hammer to the inner CV joint housing and pull it out.
The old fashioned way of holding the crankshaft was sticking big screwdriver into inspection hole to hold transmision converter, but newer engines have big torque and that is no longer recommend.
Still you can try it to see how much trouble torque you are dealing with.
On my diesel I used 5 foot wrench extension for bolt removal and I am strong man
#12
Well I have been searching for a M276 tool without luck. Weird.
You should call KTC Tools and ask them. If you cannot find one buy a new balancer at dealer and keep receipt. Tape it off to not get it scratched. Buy a replacement bolt too so you are not just using their supply for free .
Go to welder and have one made. Should be easy to weld some tabs that fit in the holes, slots or grooves however the pulley is designed. Show pics of other diy ones.
You should call KTC Tools and ask them. If you cannot find one buy a new balancer at dealer and keep receipt. Tape it off to not get it scratched. Buy a replacement bolt too so you are not just using their supply for free .
Go to welder and have one made. Should be easy to weld some tabs that fit in the holes, slots or grooves however the pulley is designed. Show pics of other diy ones.
I also called local Mercedes deal for the tool and was told that they don't sell this tool .
About the axle, I did not pull mine for boot replacement, but members add later to my thread.
MB has special clamp, but suppose 3" exhaust U-bolt works to attach slide hammer to the inner CV joint housing and pull it out.
The old fashioned way of holding the crankshaft was sticking big screwdriver into inspection hole to hold transmision converter, but newer engines have big torque and that is no longer recommend.
Still you can try it to see how much trouble torque you are dealing with.
On my diesel I used 5 foot wrench extension for bolt removal and I am strong man
MB has special clamp, but suppose 3" exhaust U-bolt works to attach slide hammer to the inner CV joint housing and pull it out.
The old fashioned way of holding the crankshaft was sticking big screwdriver into inspection hole to hold transmision converter, but newer engines have big torque and that is no longer recommend.
Still you can try it to see how much trouble torque you are dealing with.
On my diesel I used 5 foot wrench extension for bolt removal and I am strong man
I do have a 5 foot extension and 3/4" wrench
#15
Axle seal is done by:
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...-seal-diy.html
Now is still looking for a way/tool to hold the crank pulley to get the front seal done.
Any input is appreciated.
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...-seal-diy.html
Now is still looking for a way/tool to hold the crank pulley to get the front seal done.
Any input is appreciated.