How are you sure the mounts are good?

 

I wouldn't imagine such a car with low miles and fairly new to have such a problem. I'm not an expert but I would imagine engine mounts wear at higher miles or longer years. And the throttling sound comes from the right side exactly the position of the passenger. I would imagine if the mounts are the culprit, the noise would be distributed evenly from the front or at least when i open the driver's window, but it's not.

 

You "would imagine" a lot of things wrong. A 2016 E-class in the USA was built in 2015 (some very early 2015) and we're here knocking at 2021. The mounts are not just in use when the car is being driven, they are susceptible to time as well as mileage.

@ItalianJoe1 is a Benz expert. You should listen to him.

 

Thank you so much for your advice. As I said, I'm no expert or mechanic; just trying to find a solution. I will take the car to a mechanic and have it checked. Thanks to all who have replied.

 

I’m currently facing the same issue. After reading this post I’m thinking of changing the engine and trans mounts but I’m a bit hesitant paying for the job, as the sound was there when I purchased the car brand new, so I thought that’s how these engines sounded.

 

What sound?

The E350 has more engine noise than I expected, but the bad mounts noise is different.

 

You’ll find a video posted above, it’s an abnormal vibration-like sound between 1,000-3,500 rpm.

 

My E350 has none of this. Just for the record.

 

Does anyone know of an aftermarket company that makes engine/transmission mounts in general? I would think by now that some company has replacement mounts that are more heavily constructed?

 

More heavily constructed would likely mean more NVH.

For example, on the BMW E36 chassis there were a few bushings (trans, fcab, rtab and rsm) considers “weak”.... they lasted 60-100k. All replacement, aftermarket, improved versions each added a bit of NVH. For a performance car, one could argue it was desirable to firm up the “chassis” at the expense of NVH.

 

Agree, my 2016 is quiet as a mouse.....

 

I have an older Porsche w/hydraulic mounts. There are lots of comments on numerous forums about replacement mounts and short of going to a solid mount general consensus is to bite the bullet and buck up for the factory part because even though they will fail they will last longer than anything else. Sucks to know that the mounts on our cars are this way too. But happy I just got the engine mounts replaced under the CPO warranty.

Has anyone (Konigstiger maybe?) posted the procedures to replace the engine and transmission mounts? I asked to have all mine checked but they only replaced the engine mounts. There was definitely an issue before because the car shifts noticeably smoother now, especially in the morning.

 

Replacing the transmission mount is the easy one. It takes very little time and the OE part is cheap. Odd that the dealer did not just replace that one now.

I have had mine checked a few times, but they've always said they are fine. 42,000 miles. I will have them checked at the 50k service and 60k service.

 

I take that back, it looks like they did indeed replace engine and transmission mounts. The service manager and the dealership took great care of me, there was one thing that didn't get taken care of but I can't fault them on it.

 

Yes, I may have mentioned my dealer made sure to take care of me under the extended warranty, almost like they went out of their way to show me it was worthwhile, my preferred dealer is a small family owned ,one location, with Benzes and Volvo's. They just did my motor and tranny mounts when I was there for maintenance.

 

Nice.

 

So i purchased an e350 last week 90,500 miles on the clock. Has exact same vibration/rolling shudder type noise as the gentleman posted in his above video. Research and a few youtube videos later, Im convinced engine mounts are bad. Ordered some SKP brand engine mounts from rockauto and installed them. I didnt change the transmission mount since i figured the noise wasnt coming center way it seemed moreseo on one side. Literally made no Difference. So im snooping around the engine bay ear down with the engine idling trying to pin point the noise. Had a friend lightly stab the gas to induce the noise. he verified the same sound from the passenger floor area. So i end up checking the oil level wondering if the noise is pressure related. NO OIL ON THE DIPSTICK. Added some oil, a quart or 2. STILL NO READING ON THE STICK! In my mind im thinking youve got to be sh*ting me this car was at a dealer wit no engine oil??? i added a total of 5 quarts and still got bare minimum reading on the dipstick. Took it around and what do you know, THE NOISE IS COMPLETELY GONE. Here i am thinking i figured it out and as im taking a spirited drive off of the stop light and in my rear view i see PLUMES of thin blue smoke!!! TOO MUCH OIL!!!. i get to the garage and drop the oil. It was about 9 quarts at least so here i am again scratching my head. NoT only was the engine full of oil when i filled it but the dipstick never gave me an oil reading! to add insult to injury i fill it up with yet again a case of mobil 1 oil and THE ENGINE VIBRATION IS BACK 🤬🤬🤬. The hotter the engine gets to operating temp thE smoother and less pronounced the noise. so now im leaning moreso toward it being a pressure/oiling issue? engine oil and filter have been changed aside from 2 front engine mounts. HELP!

 

Although many of the well informed people are on this thread, it would be best to start a new thread to address this issue. if you put five quarts in and you drained nine out, you were short three quarts when you started. maybe check the dipstick three or four times to see where you actually are?

 

didnt want to create new threads on same issues as this issue is common and some repair methods have worked. Engine oil level is reading normal now after i filled it the second time with 6quarts. the noise although is still present.

 

You drained 9 quarts out of the engine, filled it with 6 and the reading is fine? This engine takes more than 6 quarts.

This sounds like a dumpster fire. Installing new engine mounts for this engine right now is like putting new wipers on a busted windshield. Need to figure out exactly what is going on with the oil before you worry with the mounts.

Also you do need to change the transmission mount. It is cheap and the easiest one. You can't skip it or your issues will not resolve.

 

FWIW, my recently purchased 2013 E350 was at the MB dealer to resolve a couple of minor issues. They did a “multi point” inspection since the work was being covered by the selling dealer under extended warranty, and found that the transmission mount was bad. The car has only 26k miles. I asked how that’s possible and the answer I got was that the mounts fail as much from age as well as mileage. I wasn’t experiencing any unusual noise or vibrations however like the OP. Can’t notice any difference after they replaced it. What I do notice is a tapping noise, in the old days we’d say it was a lifter noise. After reading other threads here the issue seems to the the fuel injectors being noisy. I had the service advisor listen to it and she agreed and said it’s a typical complaint on these cars. Hope so.

 

Always change the trans mount. It's more likely to be the issue than your engine mounts.

 

Mine sounds exactly the same. I was wondering if there was an issue, but it's has me feeling supremely confident.

#AddMiles

 

I dunno, my E350 is so quiet, I can't tell the engine is running at idle, or at speed. wind noise and tire-on-rough pavement noise is considerably louder, and both of those are extremely muted. 2016 E350 4Matic w. 30000 miles.

 

Mine doesn't sound that different, either. Hard to tell with a phone. The engine is quiet at idle and while cruising, but it's definitely not quiet during acceleration. But it sounds good.

My mounts have all be checked by the dealer more than once. I plan to have them checked again at the 50k mile service. 2016 RWD E350 at 44k miles.