red666

My shop suggested i replaced the eis / esl for my e550 coupe 2010 38000 miles due to the issue of car wont start (ignite) sometimes at random usually after few times using the car. Here are the symptoms:

- car sometimes wont start (engine). after waiting few hours then it will start, when it finally start i try turn off and on again with no problem.
- when the problem happen it always happen after i drive somewhere, parked for a bit (less than an hour). It always start after the car is off for a while.
-when it crank, it always crank good and the engine start fast
- when the problem happen,i can push the push start button or insert the key to turn on the radio and stuff but no reaction at all when it suppose to crank or start the engine. no cranking noise or any noise at all.

-the steering lock behave normally even when the car wont start. when it detect the key or i insert the key, it always unlock the wheel.
-i have 2 keys, tried both of them and car still wont start when im having the issue.
-not the battery since battery just replaced.
-didn't find eis error code when car is scanned ( i dont think its the star scanner)


So i been digging at the eis esl issue on this forum and else where and found alot of older w204 having this issue but the symptoms are not really clear.


The reason im skeptical the eis/esl causing the problem is that it seems the eis and esl are doing what it supposed to even when the car wont start. The eis detect the key then signal the esl to release the lock. Obviously im not expert it could be some computer electronic chip stuff got corrupted or something causing no ignition.



What do you guys think? what else could be the culprit to this problem? fuel pump ?
Thank youu

Arrie

Change the starter. Look at the threads about it and long crank etc.

red666

thanks for reply.

Why do you think its the starter?
I was thinking its starter issue too but i dont experience long crank or struggling sign of cranking. It always crank strong and start in about 1 second. The shop also seem confident its not the starter since there is no starter noise at all when the car wont start.

markgm

One giveaway is it not starting when it's warm.

konigstiger

Any fault codes. No, cost effective first step replace the crankshaft position sender (CPS) part # 6429050000.

Arrie

Not starting when hot is EXACTLY a sign of bad starter motor.

Arrie

There are several people in this forum who has experienced the same as me. Starter cranks the engine just fine but starts are longer than they should and sometimes can be no start at all on the first try.

Research the forum.

konigstiger

Crank/no start when hot, starts fine upon cooling could be CPS. No crank/no start when hot, starts fine upon cooling, could be starter.

Arrie

In my post I’m referring to info that the starter is dead when hot. This happens with old starter when brushes are worn and springs do not load them properly when hot starter expands from heat.

10 years old car starter is very good quality to work at all. I changed mine as I started experiencing some starting problem. My car always started but a couple times at start it looked like all electronics went down or reset. Three times my driving aids were inoperable and I had to stop the car and re-start to get it all going.

The new starter takes over 50 amps to run it dry. I can not imagine the amp load a worn problematic starter pulls.

BTW, have I ever thanked you Stiger? If I have not then now I do that for the hundreds of extremely helpful posts I have read from you. I’m sure there are many more hundreds I have not read.

THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!!

red666

Thank you guys for the advice and especially bringing up the cps issue.

I looked into the topic of cps, it seems the car will crank but wont start when the cps is faulty and in my case it wont crank at all when the issue arise. However, i also noticed the car sometimes have throttle lag / no response for abt 1 - 2 seconds when parking ( when i just switch to reverse or d) which is kinda the symptom of a bad cps. I probably gonna replaced it first since its cheap and easy enough.

When i did serv a and change battery recently there were no error codes beside low voltage code, thats why the shop assumed the issue was from the battery. Apparently its not since it happened again.

On a side note, check engine light just came on, scanned and it was the shut off valve error code. Was told it got nothing to do with the not starting problem.

markgm

*Sometimes* has lag when shifting between P/R/D, or *always*? I (and many others) have complained about this and been told that it's normal behavior by dealerships. I personally think it's a safety hazard, since you have no power for 2 to 3 seconds when doing a 3 point turn.

red666

I believe its *sometimes*. Weird and annoying. I had the same car but e350c before the e550c, i dont think i ever experience it in the 350.
Btw, when you had the bad starter issue before, have you experience my issue? Intermittent no start no crank.

Genjet

You may be overthinking this issue. As dependent these cars are on electronics, the EIS is a critical component and has a mechanical aspect to it as well so will likely wear out at some point.

My ML 350 did the same things. I researched online and found a place that would fix or replace it. In my case it had to be replaced so they sent the new part with my key. $595 new, if fixable could have been as low as $150. (Pressertech in Georgia)

I used FedEx on Tuesday and had the old unfixable part along with the new part by Thursday afternoon. Installed in a little while and it’s good as new.

Hope this is helpful.

GuestFromTampa

+1 on CPS
had exactly same symptoms with W164 ML

hsenadhira

Mine is a W211 220 CDI.
Two weeks back took a 130km cool drive out of city and stopped for a snack. Tried to start only to hear a clank noice once and then that too was gone. Figured out Fuse 59 was blown. Replaced the fuse and she was fine until today. This morning 59 fuse was blown again and replaced. It started and drove home This happened after 10 mins of driving. Engine was not too hot either. Now it doesn't crank at all and it keeps blowing 59 fuse continuously. Then I pulled the exit connector set from engine sam module (which has a purple wire) and using a thin wire gave a direct supply to purpose wire (purple wire runs directly to starter solenoid). When I give direct supply (+) I hear the solenoid clanks but wire gets heated up so bad. What could be the issue? short circuited solenoid? short circuited starter or short circuit (grounded) somewhere else?

Genjet

Navigate to this and it could possibly help you? Obviously a bench test would tell you and maybe some ideas in the write up can help.

Home
> How-Tos
> C-Class 2007-2014
> General Overview

Mercedes-Benz C-Class: Fuse Diagrams and Commonly Blown Fuses

hsenadhira

Update on the starter issue. Removed the starter motor and disassembled to see one of the carbon brush wires is touching the body. Replaced the brushes and it works like a charm.