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1.8L 4 -cyl Engine 271.860 Turbo, still have the gas smell in oil
Hello Konigstiger,
Thank you so much for your post and very detailed explanation about the Centrifuge which I though was the crankcase breather or PVC valve. I have a 2012 C250 and the part # 2760100331 centrifuge cover it tells me that is not the correct part for my vehicle. In addition, your repair instructions seem much more complex than what I had believed would not require draining coolant or diving into the crankcase. Is all of that necessary just to replace the centrifuge and it's cover? I know it is in a hard to reach area, but is that whole procedure necessary? I have the 1.8L 4 -cyl Engine 271.860 Turbo
Do you think an issue with the centrifuge could be causing oil to drip down into my oil pan? Thank you sincerely for the awesome detailed instructions, but please let me know how much of those detailed steps are necessary?
Thank you sincerely,
Greg
Last edited by Knightstale04; 12-14-2020 at 11:49 PM.
Reason: more information about my car
Konigstiger,
I cannot thank you enough for your help with this issue! I tried to have repaired by my local Walnut Creek Mercedes service shop. I took it there for a diagnostic check to find where the strong gas fumes are coming from. They could not find the cause, and only pointed out the strong smell of gas on the dip stick. Then they told me there was nothing they could find as the reason. The car actually runs well and it just passed the smog test for my registration, but there is something causing gas to leak into the oil pan. When I drive on the freeway the fumes are very strong in the cabin and when I park in the garage the fumes are brutal around the car too. There are no visible leaks anywhere and no error codes, and I am only speculating from reading information from Mercedes forums that the issue might be the oil separator, centrifuge, crankcase breather or PCV valve? You seem to be very familiar with these cars, what would you think could be the most likely cause for this issue? Does this engine have the centrifuge and centrifuge cover? If you do think the issue I am having is related to the diagram you provided, which of the listed parts would you recommend replacing? I really love the car and if I could solve the gas fume issue it would be huge! Is it possible over filling the the engine oil level could cause an issue like this? . The car was not being used for the past several months because the pandemic had me working from home, but now I need to start commuting again and need to find a solution ASAP. Again, cannot thank you enough for the help, and super quick response.
Greg
Last edited by Knightstale04; 12-15-2020 at 02:27 PM.
Reason: More info
I hope you already fixed your problem, if so maybe this file might help others.
I appreciate the document. My issue is getting the last bolt on the bottom of the crash plate. I just could not get a tool back there and in the right spot.
Hi Konigstiger, I have seen your posts and they are extremely informative. I have a 2013 E350 4matic Flex-fuel. 101K miles. A few days ago oil pressure pushed up the Dipstick creating a geyser of oil. Motor runs smooth, so no hole in piston, nor coolant issue. When I shut down motor and remover oi filler cap I do notice quite a bit of pressure. Cab you confirm that this is most likely the Crankcase Vent Valve, or do you have any other ideas? Thanks again. BTW it is a bear to get at!!! Thanks Benz engineers.
2020 GLS450 / 2024 Ford Bronco / (former) W212 4-matic 350 sport package
There appears to be oil getting into my intake housing and the shop is pointing to the PCV needing replacement soon (59k miles / 2014). Car has been under my ownership since 22k miles (2017), oil always changed at no more than 7k mile intervals. Car does not see redline very often if at all, it is my highway cruiser. I am also getting that stinky oil burn smell again and they're attributing that smell to this as well. Makes sense to me, and the car has developed sense of hesitation under light acceleration (not the TPS issue this time, reset does not fix it).
Does this all sound like a clogging PCV issue? I've had clogged PCV's in the past and they too had a hesitation with them, but never figured oil could get into the intake tubing from one, but on a scale of 1-10 on wrenching ability, I'm probably a 4 in general, 1 on a MB. I only know what I don't know..
There appears to be oil getting into my intake housing and the shop is pointing to the PCV needing replacement soon (59k miles / 2014). Car has been under my ownership since 22k miles (2017), oil always changed at no more than 7k mile intervals. Car does not see redline very often if at all, it is my highway cruiser. I am also getting that stinky oil burn smell again and they're attributing that smell to this as well. Makes sense to me, and the car has developed sense of hesitation under light acceleration (not the TPS issue this time, reset does not fix it).<br /><br />Does this all sound like a clogging PCV issue? I've had clogged PCV's in the past and they too had a hesitation with them, but never figured oil could get into the intake tubing from one, but on a scale of 1-10 on wrenching ability, I'm probably a 4 in general, 1 on a MB. I only know what I don't know..<br /><br />Thanks!
<br />I think your assessment is 100% correct about the oil consumption and hesitations pointing at failed PCV. <br /><br />I have the same MY'14 with leaking oil smell since day-1. The intake is swamped with PCV oil. Intake valves never see gasoline in this direct injection engine. Cats and O2 sensors get contaminated by burnt oil.<br /><br />It's better to get the PCV upgraded before excessive pressure blows through the heat exchanger skinny gasket. Normally the crankcase is under a slight vacuum to help pistons travel and recycle blowby fumes... Not pressure!<br /><br />While getting your PCV repaired concider getting your <strong>spark plugs</strong> done too! Removing the intake plenum allows to dump all the engine oil out of the intake track.<br /><strong>Reset</strong> the ECU to relearn the idle mixture at once for minimal hesitations.<br /><br />Have you had your secondary chain <strong>tensioners</strong> renewed?
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; 10-25-2021 at 12:34 PM.
There appears to be oil getting into my intake housing and the shop is pointing to the PCV needing replacement soon (59k miles / 2014). Car has been under my ownership since 22k miles (2017), oil always changed at no more than 7k mile intervals. Car does not see redline very often if at all, it is my highway cruiser. I am also getting that stinky oil burn smell again and they're attributing that smell to this as well. Makes sense to me, and the car has developed sense of hesitation under light acceleration (not the TPS issue this time, reset does not fix it).
Does this all sound like a clogging PCV issue? I've had clogged PCV's in the past and they too had a hesitation with them, but never figured oil could get into the intake tubing from one, but on a scale of 1-10 on wrenching ability, I'm probably a 4 in general, 1 on a MB. I only know what I don't know..
Thanks!
I think your assessment is 100% correct about the oil consumption and hesitations pointing at failed PCV.
I have the same MY'14 with leaking oil smell since day-1. The intake is swamped with PCV oil. Intake valves never see gasoline in this direct injection engine. Cats and O2 sensors get contaminated by burnt oil.
It's better to get the PCV upgraded before excessive pressure blows through the heat exchanger skinny gasket. Normally the crankcase is under a slight vacuum to help pistons travel and recycle blowby fumes... Not pressure!
While getting your PCV repaired concider getting your spark plugs done too! Removing the intake plenum allows to dump all the engine oil out of the intake track. Reset the ECU to relearn the idle mixture at once for minimal hesitations.
Have you had your secondary chain tensioners renewed?
@CaliBenzDriver Is a WIS or XENTRY document available for the ECU reset?
Chassis > I don't know which doc... just unplug any engine electrical (coolant recirculating pump, thermostat, etc) to quickly trigger an ECU error.
Now you can reset the ECU through the scanner DTC Menu (without having read a fault, Reset option stays greyed out)
Without a hard reset... the new mixture adaptation is slowly tuned over a 1,000 miles or more using historical fuel trims records.
If your engine suffers from mild hesitations between deceleration and acceleration, something may be slightly leaning out your fuel trims.
The learned rich/lean mixture map is super sensitive to combustion results.
06-25-2019, 05:12 AM
Crankcase breather valve for the M276 engine
1.8L 4 -cyl Engine 271.860 Turbo, still have the gas smell in oil
