Drop to Neutral from Drive
Newbie
Joined: Jun 2020
Posts: 5
Likes: 2
W212
The car was at MB Service shop for a day ... they could not replicate the condition. They could not figure out the problem.
Xentry Diagnostics testing done.
Stored fault codes P1709, P0705, P0606.
Examined ISM connector - wiring OK.
Checked for water or moisture under front carpets - none found.
Unable to find conclusive fault.
So I will be driving till the incidences become way more frequent - or something breaks completely.
Have to not rely on acceleration to remain safe when driving ... it might not be there.
Xentry Diagnostics testing done.
Stored fault codes P1709, P0705, P0606.
Examined ISM connector - wiring OK.
Checked for water or moisture under front carpets - none found.
Unable to find conclusive fault.
So I will be driving till the incidences become way more frequent - or something breaks completely.
Have to not rely on acceleration to remain safe when driving ... it might not be there.
as mentioned, I have similar problems. Just changed the transmission conductor plate. 1 week on, still counting. So far so good.
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,181
Likes: 75
From: Abbotsford, BC, Canada
1999 SL 500 & 2011 E 550 4Matic
I hope that works ... I have been driving for quite a few weeks - without an incident. No reason for this - because it has failed several times since the last attempt to fix.
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,181
Likes: 75
From: Abbotsford, BC, Canada
1999 SL 500 & 2011 E 550 4Matic
... without touching shifter or paddles ... on the exit ramp - all of a sudden the motor began free revving ... as if it had been shifted to neutral - which I had not done.
I coasted to a stop and played with the paddles (they have at times shifted on their own to a low gear) & with the shifter stock. Nothing.
I then I shut the car off & restarted ... everything back to normal. Except now the “Check Engine” light is on & will not go away.
..
I coasted to a stop and played with the paddles (they have at times shifted on their own to a low gear) & with the shifter stock. Nothing.
I then I shut the car off & restarted ... everything back to normal. Except now the “Check Engine” light is on & will not go away.
..
Has been happening when idling ... when creeping into a parking stall ... when entering my driveway.
So I am arranging to drop the car off at a MB shop for a week. Giving them a full accounting of the work done & the 13 instances of this happening.
Also describing to them how - occasionally at Low speeds the car will, on its own, shift out of drive into 1st gear. And will respond to paddle shifters to shift back up to Drive.
I hope MB will be able to diagnose & fix.
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,181
Likes: 75
From: Abbotsford, BC, Canada
1999 SL 500 & 2011 E 550 4Matic
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,181
Likes: 75
From: Abbotsford, BC, Canada
1999 SL 500 & 2011 E 550 4Matic
Super Member
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 681
Likes: 405
From: FL
2012 E550 sedan 2019 E63 Wagon
My main battery died a while back and when I swapped it the car would not shift out of N. Had to sit for 10 minutes waiting for the aux battery to charge. Shut the car off turned it back on and it started shifting again. That was 1.5 years ago.
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Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,181
Likes: 75
From: Abbotsford, BC, Canada
1999 SL 500 & 2011 E 550 4Matic
MB Shop came up with these repair suggestions.
An Old Republic inspector visited the shop and gave authorisation for replacement of (3) items on one claim;
- transmission valve body
- engine mounts
- oil separator
I need to pay for extra labour - 2.0 for valve body and 2.5 hours for motor mounts. I have to pay $ 200.00 deductible and $49.99 for shop supplies + taxes. Total cost to me say $ 800 Cdn.
Total payable by Old Republic $ 5,270 Cdn.
Total cost = $ 6,100 Cdn.
Again - very Glad I bought the bumper to bumper extended warranty.
I presume the motor mounts and oil separator were contributing to the problem. Can any one explain that to me?
An Old Republic inspector visited the shop and gave authorisation for replacement of (3) items on one claim;
- transmission valve body
- engine mounts
- oil separator
I need to pay for extra labour - 2.0 for valve body and 2.5 hours for motor mounts. I have to pay $ 200.00 deductible and $49.99 for shop supplies + taxes. Total cost to me say $ 800 Cdn.
Total payable by Old Republic $ 5,270 Cdn.
Total cost = $ 6,100 Cdn.
Again - very Glad I bought the bumper to bumper extended warranty.
I presume the motor mounts and oil separator were contributing to the problem. Can any one explain that to me?
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,181
Likes: 75
From: Abbotsford, BC, Canada
1999 SL 500 & 2011 E 550 4Matic
MB advised yesterday (after a 5 day shop closure - due to COVID testing) that a solenoid on the steering rack, upon removal, has separated.
And so they have to replace the complete steering rack. A back order item that will take 2 weeks to be delivered.
They accept it as a shop risk and there will be no charge to me for this.
...
And so they have to replace the complete steering rack. A back order item that will take 2 weeks to be delivered.
They accept it as a shop risk and there will be no charge to me for this.
...
Newbie
Joined: Aug 2023
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
2010 e550
MB advised yesterday (after a 5 day shop closure - due to COVID testing) that a solenoid on the steering rack, upon removal, has separated.
And so they have to replace the complete steering rack. A back order item that will take 2 weeks to be delivered.
They accept it as a shop risk and there will be no charge to me for this.
...
And so they have to replace the complete steering rack. A back order item that will take 2 weeks to be delivered.
They accept it as a shop risk and there will be no charge to me for this.
...
Newbie
Joined: Aug 2024
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
glk250
Drop to Neutral from Drive
I was driving to work this AM In Drive, sport mode - the usual.
While exiting the freeway ... without touching shifter or paddles ... on the exit ramp - all of a sudden the motor began free revving ... as if it had been shifted to neutral - which I had not done.
I coasted to a stop and played with the paddles (they have at times shifted on their own to a low gear) & with the shifter stock. Nothing.
I then I shut the car off & restarted ... everything back to normal. Except now the “Check Engine” light is on & will not go away.
I checked the gas cap - is on tight.
Is this an indication that I have transmission troubles looming? Electronic controls issues?
What do you think?
Fortunately I do have an after market Bumper to Bumper warrantee that will cover what ever it might be.
I would not want to be stranded if it happens worse next time ...
While exiting the freeway ... without touching shifter or paddles ... on the exit ramp - all of a sudden the motor began free revving ... as if it had been shifted to neutral - which I had not done.
I coasted to a stop and played with the paddles (they have at times shifted on their own to a low gear) & with the shifter stock. Nothing.
I then I shut the car off & restarted ... everything back to normal. Except now the “Check Engine” light is on & will not go away.
I checked the gas cap - is on tight.
Is this an indication that I have transmission troubles looming? Electronic controls issues?
What do you think?
Fortunately I do have an after market Bumper to Bumper warrantee that will cover what ever it might be.
I would not want to be stranded if it happens worse next time ...
I have the 2015 GLK250 and this exact thing is happening.
Driving down the highway - hit the pedal and the car drops into neutral. We coast to the side of the road and restart the vehicle and all is well.
Have you actually had a fix on this issue?
I see that your mechanics have tried a few things that I’ve noted.
The mercedes dealership service department is baffled as there are no codes showing up.
Please let me know if possible.
Thank you
Crystal
Calgary AB
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 7,847
Likes: 3,496
From: Maryland
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE! Get your own Mercedes-specific scanner and scan for codes. It's a small investment and will pay for itself with a trip to the dealer. With something like the LAUNCH Creader Elite 2.0 BENZ, about $160 on Amazon, you can keep it in your car. Scan without first turning off the ignition. It will automatically scan all control modules.
Does the gear indicator actually show N or does it show D and just doesn't engage?
Does the gear indicator actually show N or does it show D and just doesn't engage?
Out Of Control!!
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 11,951
Likes: 6,796
From: Silicon Valley
W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
killer LIMP MODE...
HI Chris,
I have the 2015 GLK250 and this exact thing is happening.
Driving down the highway - hit the pedal and the car drops into neutral. We coast to the side of the road and restart the vehicle and all is well.
Have you actually had a fix on this issue?
I see that your mechanics have tried a few things that I’ve noted.
The mercedes dealership service department is baffled as there are no codes showing up.
Please let me know if possible.
Thank you
Crystal
Calgary AB
I have the 2015 GLK250 and this exact thing is happening.
Driving down the highway - hit the pedal and the car drops into neutral. We coast to the side of the road and restart the vehicle and all is well.
Have you actually had a fix on this issue?
I see that your mechanics have tried a few things that I’ve noted.
The mercedes dealership service department is baffled as there are no codes showing up.
Please let me know if possible.
Thank you
Crystal
Calgary AB
This can quickly be a true killer.... stay off the roads safely while you can!
Don't underestimate what a good local MB specialist of your choice can do for your safety!!!!
We can provide free tips that may help or not: given this car is known unsafe: don't drive it on public roads.
The cause of this I believe comes down to either a discharge low ALT Voltage below 12.0V or marginal ESP Module crashing CGW bridge. Don't underestimate what a good local MB specialist of your choice can do for your safety!!!!
We can provide free tips that may help or not: given this car is known unsafe: don't drive it on public roads.
Don't expect useful fault codes on these premium issues.
TIP #1: drive with HEADLIGHTS:ON to trigger a normal voltage above 13.7V - This easily cancels the silent "drain by driving" without any faults.
> You'll need to scan your chassis as indicated above by JR @JettaRed to understand the condition your chassis is in.
🤞
TIP#2: set your display to show BATT data, Volts + Amps.
Whatch for ECU draining battery power with low voltage!!
TIP#3: Don't bother with this tough issue unless "you can work on cars"... this is Mercedes premium chaos ie. Not simple! This is not "a bad fuse".
+++ KNOWN UNKNOWNS....
We know the issue is CAN-C ECU/TCU crash.
The unknown is what exactly brings that condition about: low voltage or crashed ESP/ISM networking ???
+++++ Don't overlook the obvious:
🤞
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Aug 3, 2024 at 05:17 PM.
Newbie
Joined: Aug 2024
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
glk250
HI Chris,
I have the 2015 GLK250 and this exact thing is happening.
Driving down the highway - hit the pedal and the car drops into neutral. We coast to the side of the road and restart the vehicle and all is well.
Have you actually had a fix on this issue?
I see that your mechanics have tried a few things that I’ve noted.
The mercedes dealership service department is baffled as there are no codes showing up.
Please let me know if possible.
Thank you
Crystal
Calgary AB
I have the 2015 GLK250 and this exact thing is happening.
Driving down the highway - hit the pedal and the car drops into neutral. We coast to the side of the road and restart the vehicle and all is well.
Have you actually had a fix on this issue?
I see that your mechanics have tried a few things that I’ve noted.
The mercedes dealership service department is baffled as there are no codes showing up.
Please let me know if possible.
Thank you
Crystal
Calgary AB
It seems most likely to drop into Neutral when relaxing the gas pedal for a few seconds and then quick acceleration - even moreso when driving up a ramp or hill.
To answer your question on what the display shows it being in neutral or drive, it actually has no gear highlighted…..the error messages just flash in the display screen (blind spot inoperative, run flat inoperative, pass airbag inoperative, service required)
Original thought was around the battery charging….we put a new battery in a year ago and also purchased a slow charger as we don’t drive the car everyday and its a diesel. I can watch the charge as suggested.
Any other tips would be appreciated. Thank you!
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 7,847
Likes: 3,496
From: Maryland
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
Newbie
Joined: Aug 2024
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
glk250
This sounds like a classic LIMP-MODE where CAN-C bus crashes and ECU/TCU quit while driving on highway.
Don't expect useful fault codes on these premium issues.
TIP #1: drive with HEADLIGHTS:ON to trigger a normal voltage above 13.7V - This easily cancels the silent "drain by driving" without any faults.
> You'll need to scan your chassis as indicated above by JR @JettaRed to understand the condition your chassis is in.
🤞
TIP#2: set your display to show BATT data, Volts + Amps.
Whatch for ECU draining battery power with low voltage!!
TIP#3: Don't bother with this tough issue unless "you can work on cars"... this is Mercedes premium chaos ie. Not simple! This is not "a bad fuse".
+++ KNOWN UNKNOWNS....
We know the issue is CAN-C ECU/TCU crash.
The unknown is what exactly brings that condition about: low voltage or crashed ESP/ISM networking ???
+++++ Don't overlook the obvious:
Double triple-check obvious suspects: TCU + ISM in case live fault report could help progress...
🤞
This can quickly be a true killer.... stay off the roads safely while you can!
Don't underestimate what a good local MB specialist of your choice can do for your safety!!!!
We can provide free tips that may help or not: given this car is known unsafe: don't drive it on public roads.
The cause of this I believe comes down to either a discharge low ALT Voltage below 12.0V or marginal ESP Module crashing CGW bridge. Don't underestimate what a good local MB specialist of your choice can do for your safety!!!!
We can provide free tips that may help or not: given this car is known unsafe: don't drive it on public roads.
Don't expect useful fault codes on these premium issues.
TIP #1: drive with HEADLIGHTS:ON to trigger a normal voltage above 13.7V - This easily cancels the silent "drain by driving" without any faults.
> You'll need to scan your chassis as indicated above by JR @JettaRed to understand the condition your chassis is in.
🤞
TIP#2: set your display to show BATT data, Volts + Amps.
Whatch for ECU draining battery power with low voltage!!
TIP#3: Don't bother with this tough issue unless "you can work on cars"... this is Mercedes premium chaos ie. Not simple! This is not "a bad fuse".
+++ KNOWN UNKNOWNS....
We know the issue is CAN-C ECU/TCU crash.
The unknown is what exactly brings that condition about: low voltage or crashed ESP/ISM networking ???
+++++ Don't overlook the obvious:
🤞
I’ll pass along to the MB service team for their review.
Most comments I’ve read seem to think this is a simple solution once they nail the cause….so frustrating!
thx again - Crystal
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 6,606
Likes: 6,553
From: Jakarta-Indonesia
2014 - W212.065 - E400 ( M276.820, 3 liter Turbo) RWD not Hybrid
Euro 29K with 5 years activation
https://autodigitools.com/product/or...-tool/#reviews
.
Last edited by S-Prihadi; Aug 9, 2024 at 01:41 PM.
