2014 E350 54,000 miles about to purchase but needs transmission fluid change/ plugs





The dealer knows that any car they sell with this mileage is bumping into the service interval. They should price it accordingly, knowing that any customer will object as you have. If they claim the $17K already adjusts for the service, tell them BS. Carfax values my 2016 at $21K and it has half the mileage. So they are doing you no favors in letting it go for $17K.
Last edited by DFWdude; Apr 30, 2020 at 11:37 AM.
The dealer knows that any car they sell with this mileage is bumping into the service interval. They should price it accordingly, knowing that any customer will object as you have. If they claim the $17K already adjusts for the service, tell them BS. My 2016 is worth $21K and it has half the mileage.
Watch this forum as MB USA frequently offers discount coupons like $100 off of $300 or more service. Also, at the present time MB dealer service department business is way down and most offer local discounts and specials. Mine recently ran an internet ad for 25% off ANY service.
Based on what you've been told by the dealer, I'd seriously consider a different dealer or a good indy shop. Indy shops in my area are about 20% less than a dealer.
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As VegasE notes, people wear brakes at various intervals, based on dozens of factors. Accordingly, every Mercedes has brake wear sensors to tell you when you ACTUALLY need to be concerned about your brakes. When the wear light shows in the dash you have a good 2,000 miles left to safely arrange for replacements. In sum, recommended brake replacement intervals are nothing more than suggestions, or liability CYA. There is no need to rush to the dealer with a vaseline-coated finger.
As usual the dealer thinks you have more money than brains. Don't feel bad, 'cause all the dealers make this stupid assumption of all of us.
Last edited by DFWdude; Apr 30, 2020 at 01:55 PM.
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I got a quote from my dealership on the 50,000 spark plug service and 60,000 transmission fluid service just the other day (I believe the intervals were adjusted for the 2016s - can @konigstiger verify?) and the dealership quoted $1090 total for both services. So your dealership is charging 2x as much.
I will not service mine at the dealer, I was just curious of the cost. Mine will go to a trusted independent shop and that will save quite a bit of money. Brakes are very straightforward - if you can do it on any car, you can do it on these.
Have been looking at all the methods and DIYs-
Dealer mostly want about $800 because Mercedes guide says remove intake manifold to access plug 6;
DIYs dont do it that way. I plan on doing DIY method next week to avoid total boredom with the virus thing stay at home
The plugs are special and cost about $60 for Bosch or 120 for Mercedes brand.
As said- brakes a cuple of idiosyncracies-- rear pads still have 1/3 life left.





On my 2001 C-Class, I replaced the front rotors at 48,000 miles and 89,000 miles (along with the rear rotors at 89). I replaced the very soft, dusty factory front pads at 28K, switching to dustless Akebonos that lasted 45,000 miles. Since the 2016 W212s came with Akebonos OEM, I predict they will be good for 45,000 or so, too. Time will tell.
On my 2001 C-Class, I replaced the front rotors at 48,000 miles and 89,000 miles (along with the rear rotors at 89). I replaced the very soft, dusty factory front pads at 28K, switching to dustless Akebonos that lasted 45,000 miles. Since the 2016 W212s came with Akebonos OEM, I predict they will be good for 45,000 or so, too. Time will tell.
I have not owned any other Benz that same length of time or mileage, so I can't be sure based on my experience. My finalists for purchase was a non-CPO 2016 w/24k miles and mismatched tires or this CPO 2016 w/29k miles with new brakes, 4 new continental tires, and fresh service. The non-CPO had $5,000 in less options new than the CPO. For $1800 more, I got the extra features, new tires/brakes, and a much longer warranty. So it was not really a huge premium in my case. CPO is not always worth it, though. Lots of nightmares out there.
You say that the 2016s come with Akebonos from stock? My 2016 produces an enormous amount of dust.





You remember the OEM pads on the C203s were simply filthy dusty. The pads on the 2016 don't dust nearly as much. I hope your CPO brake pads were not the super cheap and dusty kind... but it wouldn't surprise me.
Last edited by DFWdude; Apr 30, 2020 at 03:41 PM.
I put on seat cusions for softer ride and covers up the rip in the seam.
I bought an entire matching seat assembly on ebay and will put on the seat cushion if I ever sell/trade the car
Brake life has much to do with how/ where the car is driven- city vs country- all short trips,etc
Toyota products ony last 20000 till the fronts vibrate and have to change the rotors-- only bad thing I ever had with my Toyota brands-- but they are easy to do and parts arent expensive.
You remember the OEM pads on the C203s were simply filthy dusty. The pads on the 2016 don't dust nearly as much. I hope your CPO brake pads were not the super cheap and dusty kind... but it wouldn't surprise me.
I put on seat cusions for softer ride and covers up the rip in the seam.
I bought an entire matching seat assembly on ebay and will put on the seat cushion if I ever sell/trade the car
Brake life has much to do with how/ where the car is driven- city vs country- all short trips,etc
Toyota products ony last 20000 till the fronts vibrate and have to change the rotors-- only bad thing I ever had with my Toyota brands-- but they are easy to do and parts arent expensive.

As for the ripped seat, very common, around $250 for the seat cover, can be anywhere from a few hundred for labor to replace, you could get it done at an indy shop or upholstery shop. Typically at the dealer they charge around $600 to replace it which includes the seat cover. MB-tex is standard on the E-350, real leather was standard on an E-550 otherwise real leather would have been an option that most E-350's didn't get. If the rip is horizontal in the middle of the seat, that's probably MB-tex. Real leather had more vertical strips. I am kinda surprised, about the ripped seat, very common in early ones, not too many by 2014, but it still happens as yours show. You should also check for faded wood trim. You won't get anything off for it, but if you open the door, see if the wood trim hidden by the door is darker or not. Again, early models had more of a problem than the later ones, but some still claim the later ones still have the problem as it just takes longer to show up. The OEM wood kit from MB even an online dealer is over 2k. Most people don't notice til you point it out.
Brakes are pretty basic. Any indy can do them nothing special. I got the Zimmerman rotors and pads from FCPeuro which has a lifetime warranty on all the parts they sell. I had an indy do it because he only wanted $50 to do them and I was too lazy to do them myself to save $50. Rotors were $86 each, pads were $83 for the set. So a tad over $300 for front rotors/pads installed. There's a sensor that comes on when you're down to 25% brake pad life left, otherwise you can reuse the sensor. So if the light isn't on, you can go for a little while. While Akebono might make OEM pads for MB, the aftermarket ones sold are different, they're low dust ceramic ones and the OEM Mercedes ones are not. You actually get a lot of dust from the OEM ones. I like the low dust ones, but be warned that technically they're not as good as MB ones, not as grabby and you have to press a little harder for the same stopping distance. Otherwise not really noticeable. I kinda feel it's like throwing out a boat anchor when hitting the brakes quick with oem but with the Akebono it's the more normal type of braking. When it's time for a new set in a couple of years, I'm just going to send back the old rotors and pads and get a new set for just the cost of shipping.





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