Wondering if anyone has found a strong MAGNETIC DIFF PLUG that fits our cars?? I have been searching usual suppliers for a while. The big deal is the overall length can not protrude inside Diff. like for engine plugs.
The rear differential gear set produces steel sludge that waste the pinion bearing because there's zero filtration.
If you can get in USA, coin shaped Neo Magnet EH grade, that is 200 Celcius grade ( 392 F ) , probably just buy that magnet and use some sort of glue to stick to existing plug. https://www.first4magnets.com/tech-c...um-magnets-i92
The regular Neo magnet I tried placing on engine bay, which is only 85 C at ABS brake pipes and it got weakened as standard one is 80 C only.
If you can get in USA, coin shaped Neo Magnet EH grade, that is 200 Celcius grade ( 392 F ) , probably just buy that magnet and use some sort of glue to stick to existing plug. https://www.first4magnets.com/tech-c...um-magnets-i92
The regular Neo magnet I tried placing on engine bay, which is only 85 C at ABS brake pipes and it got weakened as standard one is 80 C only.
Thank you Suria, this looks like a perfect match as our Diff. plug is tapered seal to not use a gasket. worthy differential saver
BMW,
I read on the W212 wiring schematic, there is an option to hook up for "towing" . I forgot what response is added into the CAN bus with such option, but it was not as simple as say extra brake light.
Will that be anyway useful in your towing scenario ?
BMW,
I read on the W212 wiring schematic, there is an option to hook up for "towing" . I forgot what response is added into the CAN bus with such option, but it was not as simple as say extra brake light.
Will that be anyway useful in your towing scenario ?
I’m not aware of a hitch in the US that integrates like the OE or European options from Oris, among others.
Typically we use a trailer wiring converter, which can work with traditional 12V switched lights and/or PWM. I don’t believe the lights (taillights) are CAN
The taillight turn signals appear to be simple switched 12V. The marker and brake lights (same leds), are PWM. The marker lights are lower brightness and when braking they go full bright.
The factory module would be nice because it adjusts transmission shifting, adapts lighting output and I believe it’ll notify if one of the trailer lights are out.
Towing experience was pleasant... 65-70 mph, 20 mpg (average), 2 adults + baby, trunk full of baby "stuff", trailer + motorcycle ~ 1100 lbs. Overall a bit better than towing with our '95 E320 wagon due to brakes and engine... backup camera for hitching is nice too
Before I left I flushed the brakes and replace the rear diff fluid. I wanted to do the front diff, but was running out of time and didn't want to get stuck unable to refill it thru the drain plug.
Old fluid was in very good shape, ~118k on it and replaced with Liqui Moly 75W-90.
Only pics of hitch install, which don't show hitch... nothing like waiting till the last moment to do work on your car before a trip. What I can say is they hitch is of very high-quality, but I still needed to grind for fitment around the tail panel/trunk sill area.
Got around to installing the trailer light convertor... I'll post some details to follow. I'm tapping into the rear SAM for power, along with the signals (marker, brake, turn). The european hitching system integrates into the rear sam, where light and brake functions are controlled with assistance of dedicated trailer module. Those functions have dedicated fused circuits (Fuses: 53, 54, 56, 57, 58 and 89). In that manner, the vehicle fully controls the lighting and braking, in addition monitors if lights are working.
Since we are using a "basic" lighting convertor, I just need a circuit capable of 20A... I chose Fuse 89 as it was rated for 30A and I can tap into it with a MB-specific fuse holder (need to order).
I used a 10mm plastic body nut to secure the convertor a mounting stud (to right of SAM on floor). For ground, I picked up the an unused grounding point on the inner fender.
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