Azhy

There is a clunking noise coming out of my front left side. Sounds like it's behind the wheel. I swapped out my front air struts earlier this month but I don't think that is the issue because I'm sure I did everything right. I took of the wheel to check to see what it was and couldn't figure it out. Nothing was loose.

Any ideas on what it might be or how to further try to diagnose the issue?

I recorded a video of the sound while driving. The noise in the video is more muffled that what it really sounds like.

rapidoxidation

Ball joints.

Arrie

Where did you get the parts that you used to swap the struts out?

For me this sounds exactly like I had it when my front struts went bad. This noise appeared before the bags started leaking and it was gone after I replaced the front struts with the OEM re-build parts from FCP Euro.

I heard that someone else re-builds these struts but only replaces the leaking spring bag. They don't fix other internal issues in the shock absorber, which is where the clunking sound in my car came from.

Like I said, it sounds the same, but could perhaps be something else?

Azhy

How can I look into this further? Can this be a DIY fix?

Azhy

I got Arnott front struts from Summit. I installed them earlier this month and the noise came about 2 weeks after. Everything was fine in those 2 weeks.

ChrisHimself

I knew what it was right away but It's a bunch of little things that add up and make it worse. Sway bar links were roached, front struts surprisingly held air but blew all their oil at 110k, and it became more muted as I moved down the list but finally it ended up being the two motor mounts and trans mount at 115k. I would get that wheel in the air and check your LCA, thrust link, and engine mounts for any blowouts. As for mounts, you can tell if you have a "lumpy" idle but the computer hasn't picked up a misfire. You can pry gently on it to check for movement or have a helper rev the car. It'll also have leaking fluid sometimes. The car will drive smooth for a long time since when youre accelerating itll lift the engine on one side but bumps will rattle the engine against the mounts since they'll be metal on metal without the hydraulic oil inside them.

All of it is connected so it makes sense, mine was on the driver side and it subsided as the car got temperature in it.

Azhy

I'll definitely recheck behind the wheel. I don't think it has anything to do with mount because I don't have a lumpy idle. The car doesn't sound or feel like it's misfiring.

ChrisHimself

Depends what youre mileage is. At 100k they could definitely be replaced. Oh and make sure your battery is tied down. I'm not saying it's definitely one thing, you gotta check everybodys car ages differently. I pulled a 140k mile alternator out of my 997 the other day that just started to have the bearing go out.

DAMSRT6

I would also make sure your sway bar links are snugged down.

Azhy

They should be. They were pretty snug when I replaced my front struts. I did see a video of a guy with the somewhat same noise as mine and his ended up being sway bars. I might recheck mine.

rapidoxidation

A pry bar is your friend. Try to wiggle each joint. It's a DIY; in fact I'm replacing all the front end ball joints on my W211 this weekend so it can get aligned. Replaced the rear springs on it a couple weeks ago, tried to get it aligned but the shop told me I need to replace the lower left joint on the front wheel. I did them all as a kit from FCPEuro a few years ago, so the parts are free... and I still have the specialty tools for the job. Kind of disappointing that the joint crapped out after only a few tens of thousands of miles, but so it goes. The replacement parts are free.

Arrie

I would take it to Arnott as it really sounds like the strut internal issue.

S. Madman

I heard that Arnott's do not have the reserve air option on them. Is that still the case?

bmwpowere36m3

That’s not a W212 feature. For example, the rear W211 springs had them and Arnott’s design omits them. The W212 didn’t have those reservoirs from the factory.

Azhy

I'll give that a go. On a somewhat random note, I learned ball joints on my car integrated with the control arm. I think it's a 4matic thing.

Azhy

I will be contacting Arnott soon. I wanted to check my control arms and sway bar links first to make sure that's not the issue.

Azhy

Wanted to add a few things.

This is the video I mentioned earlier:
The sound in his video sounds pretty close to mine and his issue was sway bar links. Thoughts on that?



Also, I noticed the boot covering the airbag on my strut was not secure to the top. I doubt this caused the problem but small chance it's possible? Assuming there's a tiny gap where the boot covers the top rim.

bmwpowere36m3

You won't know till you check them... as rapidoxidation said, get in there with a pry bar and manipulate the control arms/balljoints/bushings... checking for play. Before you take off the wheel, grab the tire at the outer edge and apply back/forth force at 9:00 & 3:00 and then 12:00 and 6:00, checking for play.

The boot on the strut keeps debris out... I don't see it causing clunking. Causing the bladder to rupture... sure.

I have a clunk on my E550 from the front passenger side. First thing I checked was the swaybar links... their tight (10 years old, 100k). All the balljoints are good as well. The only bushing that's "suspect" for me is the thrust arm. I plan to change them... if it doesn't resolve the issue, then I'll install a set of chassis ears. I have a suspension that it could be the strut...

Azhy

Yea you're right. I have yet to find the time to do so. I have checked prior to posting but I didn't use a pry bar. I'll try the tire thing too, I didn't know about that one.

How similar is your clunking noise to mine?

Jack tanner

Nope I have a non 4matic 212 e350 and they're also integrated into the control arm at the top,, the bottom ball joint is not, it looks like an elbow..

Azhy

Small Update:

I went in with a pry bar to check behind the tire. The control arm had very little play. Same with the sway bar link. The sway bar link was pretty snug but i was able to twist it back and forth about 45 degrees. The 3rd piece that is perpendicular with the wheel (I don't know the name of this one) is also pretty snug and does move much.

Mud

My E350 had a similar noise and it had nothing to do with suspension/steering. I also chased all that stuff. It was the rear portion of the plastic wheel well that had just a bit of wiggle in it. Road bumps allowed it to shift slightly and make noise against the body or anything right behind it. The noise was transmitted through the body and made me first suspect something attached to the subframe. I verified noise using a soft rubber mallet and tapping around the fender well and underside of body. Easy fix, a bit of foam padding behind the lower section and new fasteners.
Dunno if thats what your car may need but worth a look.

Azhy

I'll definitely check for that. Thanks for the input.

rohanpatel14

have pic of the location noise coming from?

Azhy

Another Update:

I swapped my 2 front sway bar links and that seemed to have fixed the issue! No more noise! Ride seems smoother too or that could just be in my head since I don't hear a rattle lol.