Hi Everyone,
I am hoping to buy my first Mercedes this summer and am looking for a 212 E class. Before I make the plunge, are there any common problems or issues with these cars that I should know about? Hopefully not, but I want to make sure I haven’t missed any issues in my research.
Cheers
I am hoping to buy my first Mercedes this summer and am looking for a 212 E class. Before I make the plunge, are there any common problems or issues with these cars that I should know about? Hopefully not, but I want to make sure I haven’t missed any issues in my research.
Cheers
MBWorld Fanatic!
bmwpowere36m3
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Quote:
I am hoping to buy my first Mercedes this summer and am looking for a 212 E class. Before I make the plunge, are there any common problems or issues with these cars that I should know about? Hopefully not, but I want to make sure I haven’t missed any issues in my research.
Cheers
Must have not looked too hard... lolOriginally Posted by Levantdriver
Hi Everyone,I am hoping to buy my first Mercedes this summer and am looking for a 212 E class. Before I make the plunge, are there any common problems or issues with these cars that I should know about? Hopefully not, but I want to make sure I haven’t missed any issues in my research.
Cheers
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Gotta narrow it down more.. Where are you located in the world? Lots of differences as in Europe they're big on diesels whereas North America has the E250 Bluetec, E300, E400, E550, and E63.
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My W212 was a reliable car .I have only had little issues that could be with any car manufacturer. Panoramic roof problems but my take on is that I must be abusing it (don't try to open or close it when driving ).My biggest gripe was hard bottom and bolsters of the Artico seats or MB /Tex seats I think genuine leather seats must be offering more comfortable level .
Ashtray can be stuck on but not a real issue .
Tranny in Sport Mode was very hard namely when speeding thru 2nd to 3rd gear .
Ashtray can be stuck on but not a real issue .
Tranny in Sport Mode was very hard namely when speeding thru 2nd to 3rd gear .
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I'm on my second W212 now and have only had to repair the rotary knob by replacing the broken stem (a common problem) in both cars, replace the driver seat MB-Tex cover in one of them (another common problem), and the faded walnut trim in the other. All repairs cost me less than $1000 as DIY. Otherwise, just normal wear and tear maintenance. I did find that the sport model had a noticeably rougher ride because of the low-profile tires but that's just a preference thing.
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Older MB's can be great, and also expensive to maintain. Parts are expensive, labor is expensive.
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Unless you can DIY all of the maintenance, your annual services will be a lot more than a Camry. Just be aware and save money for service and repairs.
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A very good idea.....set aside some money from each paycheck....it will be used for sure Originally Posted by KEY08
Unless you can DIY all of the maintenance, your annual services will be a lot more than a Camry. Just be aware and save money for service and repairs.
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I got new battery for $105, so DIY makes lot of sense with the brand.
I would not recommend buying used MB without warranty by a person who has no experience with those cars.
Some people got lucky and find trusted mechanic, but net is full of horror stories otherwise. .
I would not recommend buying used MB without warranty by a person who has no experience with those cars.
Some people got lucky and find trusted mechanic, but net is full of horror stories otherwise. .
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Hi, I made a whole thread relating to this, check it out.
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ml350's post is here Comprehensive Guide on W212 - MBWorld.org Forums
I'd also add to his list 2 items:
1. I'd avoid airmatic shocks because they are much more trouble prone than standard shocks.
2. Have a mechanic check the engine and transmission motor mounts. They fail due to age and/or miles and are about $1500 at a dealer to replace.
I'd also add to his list 2 items:
1. I'd avoid airmatic shocks because they are much more trouble prone than standard shocks.
2. Have a mechanic check the engine and transmission motor mounts. They fail due to age and/or miles and are about $1500 at a dealer to replace.
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That was not nice and not funny.

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Quote:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Levant
= *****hole
No offense to IQ or anything, but most likely not DIY'ing his maintenance, and it'll be a run-to-the-desert ground heap of repairs waiting to happen.
Summary: Do not buy.
No offense?Originally Posted by Senecan
Levant:https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Levant
= *****hole
No offense to IQ or anything, but most likely not DIY'ing his maintenance, and it'll be a run-to-the-desert ground heap of repairs waiting to happen.
Summary: Do not buy.
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Any other questions?
HOW often were you beaten in your childhood? Was it all before the age of 10? Or after that first milestone as well?Originally Posted by Senecan
Correct. Average middle-eastern IQ's range 80-90. This is quite low, and will present a challenge when attempting to repair complex German vehicles. Just the facts. An objective statement. Of course, I don't know this brand new member, I'm just going off what I can see at the moment.Any other questions?
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I hope this is helping you to get the attention that you seem to need Originally Posted by Senecan
Aha that's even funnier because you DIDN'T type it from your super high-tech spaceship lounge in Wakanda. Another IQ-denier. Good jokes though, you can be the court jester.
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Quote:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Levant
= *****hole
No offense to IQ or anything, but most likely not DIY'ing his maintenance, and it'll be a run-to-the-desert ground heap of repairs waiting to happen.
Summary: Do not buy.
Originally Posted by Senecan
Levant:https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Levant
= *****hole
No offense to IQ or anything, but most likely not DIY'ing his maintenance, and it'll be a run-to-the-desert ground heap of repairs waiting to happen.
Summary: Do not buy.
S,
Don't judge people like that, not ethical at all.

However I do agree on these :
01. Unless $$ is decently sufficient or good DIY know how with supporting tools, W212 and more so of 6-7 years old will cost more to maintain than say a Toyota.
02. No matter how low cost and old the pre-owned W212 one can buy, the repair bills stay the same for X, Y & Z component of a new or used car.
03A. If one's aging W212 is the only car one own and his/her work or family depended on high mobility, it is not a good choice.
03B. Carrying on from 03A criteria........First and foremost buy a car, or any car, is for its function as a easy to maintain and reliable transport machine and image wise make it a 3rd or 4th priority.
03C. Carrying on from 03A + 03B criterias .... The lesser by quantity or proximity a proper ( if not authorized ) maintenance facility availibility is, in the country where the W212 is operated/owned
and the higher import duties and frequent parts scarcity..... best to avoid complex cars. W212 is complex.
Only the buyer to be, will know where he is at for 01 to 03.
Happy shopping.....
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^ All excellent points, that pretty much sums it up.
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I love my cars, all cars need maintenance, this one just has more stuff to break. That's ok, I have the wherewithal to fix it at the dealer if I must, that said, it is this forum and the members that keep my cost of ownership low. I had my W220 for 14 years and 61k miles, without the Guys on the 220 forum and the 221 forum as well. I would never have been able to keep it that long or had the intestinal fortitude to repair the things I did by myself. In short, thank you WallyP and all the rest of the guys on the 220 forum and thank you to all the guys on the W212 forum, I greatly appreciate all the knowledge and common sense advice I receive here. 

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I've been buying MB for my family for over 25 years and it become the cheapest brand to drive I ever own and I did own over 20 brands.
But I buy diesels only and the only time I bought gas MB was when I needed wagon or SUV, who for years were not available with diesels.
The only new MB we bought was 1998 ML320 and in 13 years with the family -it averaged $30 a year in needed parts.
I am in contact with few buyers on my previous vehicles and couple of them exceeded 20 years /300,000 miles still driving strong.
Newer diesels had baby teeth with emission systems, but latest settlement took care about it.
So with DIY skills and forums help, there is no better brand to own.
Most of MB diesels over the years I bought on East Coast and import them to California. So I bought higher mileage car base on the pictures, flew over and drove 2-3000 miles home.
Don't think I would do it with Toyota.
But I buy diesels only and the only time I bought gas MB was when I needed wagon or SUV, who for years were not available with diesels.
The only new MB we bought was 1998 ML320 and in 13 years with the family -it averaged $30 a year in needed parts.
I am in contact with few buyers on my previous vehicles and couple of them exceeded 20 years /300,000 miles still driving strong.
Newer diesels had baby teeth with emission systems, but latest settlement took care about it.
So with DIY skills and forums help, there is no better brand to own.
Most of MB diesels over the years I bought on East Coast and import them to California. So I bought higher mileage car base on the pictures, flew over and drove 2-3000 miles home.
Don't think I would do it with Toyota.
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from what all I've heard, both in person from friends and on various forums, Mercedes dealers in places like India and the middle east are total rip-off agencies and have been since the beginning. Apparently a lot of Mercedes sold in India are *MADE* in India, and are full of engineering shortcuts that aren't obvious, to the point of which many parts aren't interchangeable with the german made cars, AND the India dealers won't even sell you parts for a few-year-old model even if its a car they sold originally. The Indian-sold car's VIN often isn't in the Mercedes global database, either.
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You'd be surprised how many parts in your car are "USA only. "
I am trying to restore my DPF delete car to factory spec and bought ECU in Europe, since it was way cheaper there.
Now my friendly DSL guru is telling me that the same part number, sold in Europe has quite different software in it and he is putting extra work to virginize it.
The same engines in Europe have different fuel pumps and different injectors.
I am trying to restore my DPF delete car to factory spec and bought ECU in Europe, since it was way cheaper there.
Now my friendly DSL guru is telling me that the same part number, sold in Europe has quite different software in it and he is putting extra work to virginize it.
The same engines in Europe have different fuel pumps and different injectors.
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yeah.... that too. I don't remember the specifics, but what you just said reminded of when I was reading about the M276/M278 direct injection engines with multi-shot and multi-spark, the European version has different spark and injection parameters and different numbers of sparks and squirts per cycle... Now, you're talking about a diesel, since you said DPF, but I bet much the same is true. I suppose this isn't that different than my 2002 Ford 7.3 Powerstroke diesel... the California models introduced multi-shot injection well before the rest of the nation/world. and yes, use different injection pumps and injectors.
Quote:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Levant
= *****hole
No offense to IQ or anything, but most likely not DIY'ing his maintenance, and it'll be a run-to-the-desert ground heap of repairs waiting to happen.
Summary: Do not buy.
Don’t be an *******.Originally Posted by Senecan
Levant:https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Levant
= *****hole
No offense to IQ or anything, but most likely not DIY'ing his maintenance, and it'll be a run-to-the-desert ground heap of repairs waiting to happen.
Summary: Do not buy.
Quote:
Wow, you are quite the racist. You must be a joy to be around.Originally Posted by KEY08
No offense?








