Camshaft sensor leaking!




Is it just the 4 camshaft magnets, and 2 sensors? Edit: it's 4 and 4.
Last edited by S. Madman; May 31, 2021 at 12:31 PM.




It's in the harness already and made it way into the ECU. The car is running with no problems, but now it's only a matter of time. Right connector top left pin and 9th pin.
Get this swapped today guys.




Passenger side. 1
Passenger side 2. Hidden under the intake cloth tube.
Driver side 1. Nasty goop of oil on driver side closer to the center.
Driver side 2, it's hidden under the intake cloth tube. (looking at it from the driver fender).
Last edited by S. Madman; May 31, 2021 at 12:30 PM.
Another check that can be done, is to lightly pressurize the failed sensor with air (sensor removed from engine), to see if the leak path can be found. This would need an air source (bike pump or compressor) and a way to adapt the air source to the camshaft position sensor connector, for example with a rubber tube using hose clamps on each end. Then observe a hissing sound or spray with soapy water and look for bubbles. I realize this is a bit of work. The benefit is for the MB user community to find a definitive root cause.




But then I think it could be going thru the pins.
So I blew on the connector side of the sensor to see if air went thru, and it was pretty sealed. But what if heat is causing the plastics to expand, and allow oil to creep in.
The only way to test for that is to heat gun a sensor, and then try to blow on the pins.
I still think the first scenario is the correct diagnosis.
I cleaned up everything up, and will let it run for a little to see how quickly it leaks.
I already ordered the replacement, and should be a quick job.
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Perhaps we can bullet proof the ECU a bit before it's too late... epoxy the pins of both ECU connectors on the inside.
What's the failure mode with oil contamination??? does it just isolate all contact points.. then you should loose camshaft sensors and solenoids first with DTC's, right ??
Imagine the 722.9 TCM module and half dozen of shift solenoids and shaft sensors laying in the sauce... No problemo, there's got to be a way to befriend oil 🤔
Did you see any oil swamping your intake?
intake swamp results from weak PCV design
I believe the PCV is responsible for allowing crankcase PRESSURE build up instead of a VACUUM.
The internal pressure is what blows oil through connectors and engine seals, one after the other.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; May 31, 2021 at 06:13 PM. Reason: inta




PCB protection film
unprotected PCB are far from top grade 😆
Select a PCB spray recognized to handle the engine heat. Look at digikey.com or mouser.com or your favorite electronics supplier.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; May 31, 2021 at 04:30 PM.




Is it this one ? : https://www.kunzmann.de/shop/en/repl...cedes-benz.htm
thanks
Is it this one ? : https://www.kunzmann.de/shop/en/repl...cedes-benz.htm
thanks
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...0aAlaAEALw_wcB
It's well-discussed on this site, the search function will find it.




I thought the oil leak is no more an issue for newer M276 3.0 ...
but it looks same sensor and wiring style used












from FCPE (see post #14 above), many part distributors also make this OEM pigtail available.
The way I got it is you still need to replace the camshaft position sensors regardless of camshaft "magnets" (solenoids) wiring. Two different parts with the same oil leak x4Pcs
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Jun 2, 2021 at 02:18 AM.




Got all them replaced. The magnets did not leak ( but I think is because they may have gotten swapped when they changed the timing chain 3 years ago)
For the love of whichever deity you pray to, if you have a 2015 or below...CHANGE THEM NOW!!.
Every...single camshaft sensor had oil in them. The one that I showed was the worst, but all of them were starting to leak, internally.
Please spend the money to fix it (I spend $450 in parts, and a hour of labor....or go to the dealer and have it fix it for you).
If you let this go A: you are going to have to start all over again making payment on another car. B: put $12,000 to get it fix or C: spend a car lifetime cleaning the ECU (if you don't short out other components).
It would have taken me 30 minutes if I was not trying to record it (but failed because my camera decided to go to sleep).
If you are going to to this yourself, get the magnet bolts. They came with some thread locker that it's tough to get out. 12 in total.
The sensor bolts had no threadlocker so I reused them, and added blue threadlocker.








