Is Battery "Registration" Needed for W212?





There is a thread on the W213 regarding "registration" of new AGM batteries when they are first installed. Question is, since the newer W212s also use AGM batteries, is there a registration procedure to use for our cars, too?
If new batteries should be registered on our W212s for best performance, I would like to learn how, because I have ZERO faith that dealers know how to do it. Certainly if you have the battery replaced by MB road service, I seriously doubt the tech bothers to take any extra time for such a procedure.
The dealer replaced my battery under warranty 18-months ago. I have to charge it once a month, partly because I don't drive it daily. But if teaching the car that I have a new battery makes it perform better, then I'd like to try it... if needed.




I have my 2010 E550 sitting on driveway as I have another daily driver. I start the car and drive it sometimes after it has sat for three weeks. In fact, right now it has been sitting three weeks without doing anything with it other than started it twice for amperage measurement. Did not drive it so it should be even worse for the battery.
Every time it has started without any problems at all and this has been going on for more than a year now.
if you have problems with starting and this is why you charge battery you have other problems. Either you have battery drain issues or you have the starter going out.




That said, I replaced air filters without registering on W211 when I bought it and even old filters shaved 2 seconds from 0-60 acceleration, the car did not object to any of that.
I bought a scanner who could do it several months later and registered new filters with the delay and no difference. I record each fill up on fuelly, so any difference bigger than 2% will be easy to read.





I did make a 400-mile day trip in it a couple weeks ago, and I could tell the battery was at peak charge on returning home. But otherwise, I seldom drive locally more than 6-10 miles round-trip on a regular basis, and I intentionally swap between two cars to give each some use, albeit for only short distances. So, while I use each car once a week on average, neither runs long enough to maintain a full battery charge.
Last edited by DFWdude; Jun 2, 2021 at 11:46 AM.
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So the batteries don't need much to recharge in normal driving and per my observation, it takes 2-3 miles to have ECO operational on car who was not driven for a week.
Still in Covid times, I was hooking up battery maintainer when the car was moved once a week. That would make ECO starting in just couple of blocks.
Lastly on my Sprinter, who sits for weeks, I use the easy battery disconnect it has. That not only prevents battery discharge, but stops FSS clock, so I don't have to change oil after 2-3000 miles only becouse it was changed 12 months ago.




There is a thread on the W213 regarding "registration" of new AGM batteries when they are first installed. Question is, since the newer W212s also use AGM batteries, is there a registration procedure to use for our cars, too?
If new batteries should be registered on our W212s for best performance, I would like to learn how, because I have ZERO faith that dealers know how to do it. Certainly if you have the battery replaced by MB road service, I seriously doubt the tech bothers to take any extra time for such a procedure.
The dealer replaced my battery under warranty 18-months ago. I have to charge it once a month, partly because I don't drive it daily. But if teaching the car that I have a new battery makes it perform better, then I'd like to try it... if needed.
It's unfortunate Xentry does not accept battery "registration"... my one quick trick you can do at anytime is to RESET the smart Hyundai battery sensor by disconecting it for 5mn with key off.
This will force it to relearn your batttery condition stored locally within.
You will then witness the ECU maxing out charging effort (14.x) instead of cutting it short towards float voltage @12.6V Min.
Floating your car lead-acid batteries is better than ignoring them. The 2x relay posts in the trunk conveniently provide access to both battery at once!
High heat is still #1 enemy... when you pump 14.9V under 80Amps: you get 1200Watts of power!!!!
AGM will tally the abuse until it had enough and let you know it's that time... 🤣
In a nutshell...:
ECO is not a battery/starter friend
Floating both AGM's is like electric velvet
Charging system in key to car power!
Quick trick to relearn MAIN battery
High-Amps deliver abuse throughout
✌️
-----
To recognize a complex system disfunction... you have to know what to expect based on variable conditions.
The gamut of valuable DTC is still has huge gaps in both electrical and CAN networking.
It is odd to design systems without adequate self-tests when you are the world No1 Bosch GmbH - Thanks for allowing Asian OEM to playball. 🙂
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Jun 2, 2021 at 05:40 PM.




I have my 2010 E550 sitting on driveway as I have another daily driver. I start the car and drive it sometimes after it has sat for three weeks. In fact, right now it has been sitting three weeks without doing anything with it other than started it twice for amperage measurement. Did not drive it so it should be even worse for the battery.
Every time it has started without any problems at all and this has been going on for more than a year now.
if you have problems with starting and this is why you charge battery you have other problems. Either you have battery drain issues or you have the starter going out.
Just went and started the car and it lit up like nothing. No sign of any battery problems. Will give it a drive today. It sat 20 days without driving it.
Last edited by Arrie; Jun 2, 2021 at 07:45 PM.




Suppose newer models do have more static draws, especially keyless go, so I am not pushing them that far.
To add to my collection, I found HF sale on battery maintainers for $7, so added 4 more to cover dual battery bank in Sprinter and then a boat.




Some owners have a different experience with crazy modules causing abnormally rapid DRAIN.




Suppose newer models do have more static draws, especially keyless go, so I am not pushing them that far.
To add to my collection, I found HF sale on battery maintainers for $7, so added 4 more to cover dual battery bank in Sprinter and then a boat.
A low charge current prevents boiling the AGM gel soup under 1200W
🙂




When Ford installs cheaper batteries, I think it is the 14.5V charging that kills them.
Last F350 was picked up new in April 2017. Used as RV it sit winter months with both batteries disconnected and on separate maintainers.
So when spring of 2020 come, I connected the batteries back to the truck to find them both dead.
Varta/MB batteries at least give you some lower voltage warning, before death.
Last edited by kajtek1; Jun 2, 2021 at 06:40 PM.




the F250 7.3 turbodiesel had some crappy wallyworld batteries in it when I got it in 2018, and after about a year, they started cranking slower, no idea how old they were, but I replaced them both with the proper size East Penn Deka... I've had very good results with Deka batteries these past 10+ years on various cars. Before that I used Interstate, but then I had several that didn't last very long, and it seemed like everone was complaining they weren't what they used to be, so I did some research on the battery makers, and picked East Penn to try, and so far haven't been disappointed. Deka is their main brand, they also make Intimidator (premium AGM mostly), and when my W212 needs a battery, I'll probably be getting one of those.



