Hello,
I newly adopted an used W212(2011 e350 4matic), and I found that I should change its dampers.
By looking under the body, I could recognize its part-number as 'A212-323-73-13', but I could not find any new oem parts to replace through web pages.
Are there any websites or pages that I may look and find the new oem dampers? If not, could you please suggest any recommendations?
As I am a newb to MB, it would be a great help if you could share your ideas and experience.

Many Thanks

 

VIN?

FCPEuro, RMEuropean, AutohausAZ, PelicanParts, ECSTuning, etc…

 

The VIN is WDDHF8HB6BA398968

 

I am sorry, but are you certain of that part number? Here is what I found


Though I am no expert on MB parts numbering, I can guess 212 (series), 320 (suspension), xx xx (details)

 

Here's what MB parts catalog shows.

 

What is informing you that you need new dampers? How many miles?

 

Thanks for this info However I am worrying about the different shape of the mounting points between knuckle and the damper; current damper is connected to the knuckle with two bolts in a longitudinal direction, but the picture of the catalog shows the bolts in a lateral direction...

This was the reason why I try to find the new damper with the exact damper part number..

 

wow I didn't know the rule of the part number btw, yes it is the damper that I am looking around. I only found few used dampers, not new one...

 

Here is another picture for the same part number, but we can now see the OEM manufacturer; SACHS, and their part number.

NOTE: look at the RED rectangle, it seems MB put a sticker on top of another part number A 212 32x yy zz.. Does your part have the sticker? perhaps carefully removing it will show another part number. Fingers crossed.

What surprises me is that the MB online parts does not even show this part number is obsolete, and replaced by something else (as usual). The datacard posted by Konigstiger indicates the car was produced for the USA/CAN market, so it should show in the MBUSA databases.

 

4matics do in fact have a different connection to the knuckle… that said, I wouldn’t put too much stock in the line-art of the parts catalog.

What Konigstiger provided is what any dealer would use to determine the “correct” part. If your still worried, order from a dealer with VIN provided that way if there’s issues, shouldn’t be, they’ll take care of it.

 

2123232800 looks like a proper 4matic strut

https://lmgtfy.app/?q=2123232800&t=i

 

For me too!! Wow thanks a lot

 

It is about 140,000miles, and the car doesn't damp out road inputs, not as much as a normal/ordinary MB does; and I could see fluid on surface of damper's outer case (it already leaked I guess). When it has leakage, oil and gas (to give pressure inside) leaks; thus damping force precipitated, and dissipative energy might be reduced a lot. I am hoping to replace not only front but also rear, and not only dampers but also insulators (top mounts) + bump stoppers as well. If I have a lift and enough tools, I might have decided to change all the dampers and arms of front/rear suspensions though...

 

140,000 miles is already a very PROFITABLE ownership .
These crappy SACHS on mine too, RWD not 4-matic.
It does not have to leak oil to be a bad damper. If you loose the nitrogen gas, that is as good as BAD damper because the nitrogen gas kept the oil from creating air bubbles and heavily reducing performance.
I suggest go for Bilsten B4 series suitable for 4-matic. Compliant, not harsh and better road handling.

It is easy to test dampers if it is out of the car.
Pressure to compression must be linear till it bottom out when done slowly. << compared it to new one and you can see the difference.
Rise of piston speed after the bottom out compression. <<< here many failed, if they are already bad.
Damper is speed device, meaning the faster the compression, the higher the resistance. So when testing the compression do it slow but linear.

Happy shopping....

 

I already replace the struts on my 2011 E-350 4matic and I think I was in the 120k+ range. I also replaced the springs, the front was starting to look a little low like it was lowered but it wasn't. New springs fixed that along with the struts. At the time, they were out of stock for the springs and they had to order them from Germany but I got them in 2 weeks. I would definitely replace the springs, there are threads of them sagging and breaking so if you're going to go through the trouble of replacing the strut, do the springs. I did pick up a few other parts like the mount, bump stop and sleeve, but the old sleeve and bump stop looked fine. I would just get the mount and bearing if I were to do it over again. The FCP description just says mount but it actually also came with the bearing as pictured. The springs have two colored dots on them and you order them based on the color of the dots you have.

Now with the new springs/struts, rides like new although I didn't buy it new.

Got the Bilstein B4 22197665 from Rockauto. Those basically cross reference to the 2123235800. Much cheaper there, other sites were a bit more. Bilstein has a lifetime warranty so didn't bother to get it from FCPEuro. The picture that they have is more accurate of what you will receive.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...pt=7584&jsn=16

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...n-bil-22197665

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...rteco-38433023

 

Can you expand on how the ride improved? I have 135K on my car and it seems to handle ok but I feel more road imperfections than I would like but don't want to waste money for something that isn't going to improve anything. When I had it aligned this year I asked them about the condition of the front end and they replied that the car had obviously been well cared for. My concern is the previous owner hit two potholes that blew two tires so I wonder whether the shocks are worn.
Also replacing struts means another realignment correct?

 

Well I did new struts and springs. Basically takes potholes better, doesn't feel like it bottoms out and there's more suspension travel so the ride isn't as harsh as before. I do a 3 year alignment warranty at Goodyear so the alignment afterwards didn't cost anything. Standard recommendation is to replace shocks/struts after 50k-75k from the shock/strut manufacturer but at 135k, I'm pretty sure they're worn out. I did the rear shocks/springs a couple years ago so it rides pretty smoothly with new springs/struts/shocks all around.

 

Wow, thanks for the details! I actually was looking around the other websites so far, and I even contacted a dealership near me but I wasn't able to receive any response from them. Honestly, I am an oem-part-lover, so I thought having the bilstein dampers may be my last choice, but as you mentioned that bilstein provides a lifetime warranty, it somehow drags me to them haha.

 

Also, as I mentioned that I am an oem-part-lover, if there is someone available, please confirm (or check) the part numbers that I searched for my vehicle as below. I asked to a dealership but I couldn't get a reply for this... T^T
I know it may consume your time, but if you are available, please check this if it will fit for my car.

1.Rework needed items and its OEM parts number (1) Front

- 10 Front strut : A212-323-58-00 (-488-489+485)

- 20 Spring Lower Shim : A212-322-00-84 (-488-489)

- 30 Spring : A212-321-16-04, -17-04, -18-04, -19-04 (Beige x1, x2, x3, x4), A212-321-31-04, 32-04 (1 Beige / 1 Yellow, 1B / 2Y)

- 40 Spring Upper Shim : A212-322-02-84 (-489)

- 50 Bump Stopper : A212-321-09-06 (-488-489)

- 60 Dust Cover (Boot) : A212-323-03-92 (-488-489)

- 70 Strut Bearing (Ball Bearing at insulator) : A204-981-00-25 (-489)

- 80 Support Bushing (Strut Insulator) : A212-323-00-20 (-488-489)

- 90 Strut Nut : N 000000 002597 (-488-489, M14x1.5)

- 95 Strut Cover : A212-327-02-86 (-488-489)

- 100 Shock Tower Cover : A172-323-01-38 (-488-489)



(2) Rear

- 10 Rear Shock Absorber : A212-320-06-30 (485)

- 90 Spring Upper Shim : A210-325-01-84, -02-84, -03-84, -04-84 (-488-489, 5/9/13/17mm)

- 100 Spring Bearing : A212-326-03-67 (-488-489)

- 110 Spring : A212-324-12-04, -01-04, -02-04 (1 Red / 1 White, 1 Red, 2 Red)

- 120 Spring Lower Shim : A204-324-01-84 (-488-489)

- 350 Shock Absorber Lower Mount Bolt : N 000000 000295

- 360 Shock Absorber Lower Mount Nut : N 913023 010002 (M10)

- 370 Shock Absorber Upper Mount Nut : A002-990-37-54



(3) Miscellaneous

- FRT Stabilizer Bar Linkage : A212-320-25-89 (Left), -26-89 (Right)

- FRT Stabilizer Bar Fix (Hexagon) Nut : N 000000 003276 (M12x1.5)

- RR Stabilizer Bar Linkage : A204-320-05-89 (Left), -04-89 (Right)

- RR Stabilizer Bar Fix Nut (Link~Bar) : A140-990-06-51

- RR Stabilizer Bar Hexagon Bolt (Link~Arm) : N 910105 008037

- RR Stabilizer Bar Fix Nut (Link~Arm) : N 000000 003276 (M12x1.5)

 

See attachments.

 

Wow... How can't I appreciate your help! Thanks a lot!