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Hello! I’m going to be performing a brake flush on my 2012 e350 4m (it’s about time) , and it’ll be the first time i do it for this car. I’ve been reading around and watched a couple of videos on it and feel pretty confident.
Just to be sure, what are the steps to avoid getting air in the system? Just make sure the reservoir never goes empty? but also won’t the pressure suck air back up from the bottle/container I bleed the liquid to?
also would appreciate a quick run down of the process.
thank y’all so much! So far with this forum’s help I saved a crap load of money and fell in love with DIY work on this car.
Sr Leigh has the best video for this. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GQS7QrYuOMI&t=400s The only tip I may add is to hold a rag over the hose when you remove it from the bleeder valve to avoid any chance of the fluid dripping.
The Motive brake bleeder is worth the purchase and makes this job a breeze.
yup, I just ordered one moments ago! And roughly how much fluid would be needed to flush the brakes? I know with coolant I had to go through a couple of gallons of stuff.
Depends what level of flush you want?
Full flush require computer activating ABS pump.
However most of DYIers are happy with static flush, what leaves few tablespoons of old fluid in ABS pump.
I made pressure kit with $2 worth of parts from Junk yard.
BMW caps have the same thread as MB, yet they have hole in the center, so small hose with fitting to attach to your spare wheel for pressure.
Start with sucking old fluid from reservoir and topping it off with new stuff, than attach the pressure kit and go to the brake farthest from Master Cylinder to start bleeding and end the shortest line.
System has very low capacity, so unless you dump a lot, single fill will do, but monitor the level to avoid pushing air into the system.
I also make it easy on myself when I change brake pads.
I change the fluid in reservoir, than when pushing caliper pistons in, I open the bleeders, dumping old fluid.
This way without much of additional work, I have the most contaminated fluid from calipers flushed.
Depends what level of flush you want?
Full flush require computer activating ABS pump.
However most of DYIers are happy with static flush, what leaves few tablespoons of old fluid in ABS pump.
I made pressure kit with $2 worth of parts from Junk yard.
BMW caps have the same thread as MB, yet they have hole in the center, so small hose with fitting to attach to your spare wheel for pressure.
Start with sucking old fluid from reservoir and topping it off with new stuff, than attach the pressure kit and go to the brake farthest from Master Cylinder to start bleeding and end the shortest line.
System has very low capacity, so unless you dump a lot, single fill will do, but monitor the level to avoid pushing air into the system.
I also make it easy on myself when I change brake pads.
I change the fluid in reservoir, than when pushing caliper pistons in, I open the bleeders, dumping old fluid.
This way without much of additional work, I have the most contaminated fluid from calipers flushed.
yup, I just ordered one moments ago! And roughly how much fluid would be needed to flush the brakes?
I think 2 quarts should do the job. So that's about 2 cups per wheel plus some for the master cylinder. Make SURE that the MC doesn't run dry. Rears take more fluid (greater distance and volume in the lines) vs the fronts.
I have the Motive brake bleeder kit. It works on my W212, but funny that it does not work on W204 C200 which belongs to my friend.
On the W204 a manual brake pedal push is the way to go.... I never dig deeper into why, but it was a suprise.
Too bad W212 at Xentry does not have a true hot function called ABS Bleed, nil.
I never tried bleeding with Xentry assist yet and none also mentioned in the MB WIS. Attached 2 documents.
Supposedly with power bleeder like Motive and unless the brake system was opened, there is no need for brake pedal manual push. Item 5.1 at Brake Bleeding Operation document.
I did go deeper into the ESP looking for DTC list, there is no ABS menu per se, W212 place ABS module function under ESP module N30/4.
Only 3 of these actuations are available relating to ABS pump.
I have yet to learn where are these item 1 , 2 and 3 are actually located within the ABS module and where are the direction of the fluid flow.
SBC Hold actuation is so LOUD !!!! I nearly jumped out of my seat . However there is no pressure reading when I actuate it. ENGINE OFF condition.
I thought SBC is a W211 thingy with that funny balloon, which our W212 do not use.
===============
Well, I seen Xentry naming certain new components using old names.
I shall update which of the 3 actuations pumps out the most fluid.
When I do get to replace my brake fluid, which is within the next few months because I am merely waiting for 1 special type crossover seals for the front AMG/Brembo 4 pistons caliper ( Code 950 ).
I intend to do complete piston seal and dust boot replacement , poor thing those elastomers been abused by me at the fun-at-the-track and on the road, albeit my car is only 36,000KM today.
yup, I just ordered one moments ago! And roughly how much fluid would be needed to flush the brakes? I know with coolant I had to go through a couple of gallons of stuff.
I’ve done it with a single quart. It’s a little stressful as I’m afraid to run out but is just enough. I hate to open another container and use just a little bit as that would be wasteful. It’s not the kind of fluid you want sitting around a long time before the next use as it can absorb water.
Another vote for the Motive brake bleed system. Senior's videos are very good. The only thing I would do differently, is spend the money on a real brake bleed bottle, such as one of these. For me, it's not worth the hassle to try and fabricate something.
One advantage to the Motive catch bottle is that he hose is silicone. After done bleeding, when you are ready to remove the hose, just pinch the hose next to the bleeder screw before removing it from the bleeder screw. Then push the end of the hose on the air bleed nipple on top of the bottle. This method has worked very well for me. I can do a brake bleed without a single drip on the garage floor.
I've always been able to do a full flush with 1 quart of fluid. Keep in mind that you will bleed the most from the RR and LR, and, since they are closer to the brake system, you don't need to bleed anywhere near as much from the RF and LF.
I highly recommend the Bosch ESI6 brake fluid. Very high wet and dry boiling points at a reasonable price. Rock Auto has it for < $10/quart, but of course the make up some of that on shipping. If you buy a few at a time, it's a good value. And Bosch states that an unopened can is good for at least 5 years.
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. However there is no pressure reading when I actuate it. ENGINE OFF condition.
