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Today E350 W212 2013 4matic 275K miles got battery sign lighted in dashboard. I have replaced battery maybe 2018. It definitely not battery. Test using battery tester the Duracell Platinum 49 H8 AGM 850 CCA. Test result 650 CCA so it still have live. Waveform test flat 12.1 V so either alternator or voltage regulator had problem. So please give me opinion based on experience that should I replace both voltage regulator and alternator. I have to find the WIS to check if voltage regulator bad or alternator bad. Is there any relay I should check?
No code found but this morning started the car and the voltage UB=14.2V IB = 50 A. So look like the voltage maybe voltage regulator had problem. But after test multiple times the battery sign show up but it clear again after turn off and turn on. So now I confused what should I do next to resolve this intermittent battery sign but it didn't stored any code.
After 3 hours in park start the car the battery light on again. Turn off the car set in device mode to monitor voltage and turn on engine and battery light is off and voltage 14.3V. I didn't know because turn off and turn engine clear the problem or because set in monitor voltage mode clear the problem.
Who said a 4 year old battery can’t be crapping out? Happens every day. Your 12.1V state-of-charge measurement is a battery at 55%. That number should be 12.6 minimum. Your battery is the suspect here.
I think it go down to 60% because it not charged about 3 hours but after I started no problem in morning it charged for 20 minutes CCA test maximum 850A. SO battery fine but the alternator or regulator malfunction so some time it not charged.
with the engine running, connect a volt meter to the battery negative terminal, and a metal screw on the engine, to see if there is any ground differential... any more than 0.1 volt is too much and indicates a ground problem somewhere
I think it go down to 60% because it not charged about 3 hours but after I started no problem in morning it charged for 20 minutes CCA test maximum 850A. So battery fine but the alternator or regulator malfunction so some time it not charged.
Your battery tests at 850CCA: just like new!
Your alternator puts out 14.2V... that's a good sign.
Your battery charging with 50Amp is a sign it is in discharged state.
You want to figure out WHY your good AGM was discharged to 12.1V.
> Was it discharged by DRIVING or being PARKED?
For now you want to charge the batteries at home and keep an eye on your dashboard batt stats while driving. See how charge level that correlates with the money light.
It discharged either driving or in park when battery sign on which indicated either voltage regulator malfunction or alternator could not generate higher than 12 V so it would not charge battery when it should. So that battery symbol mean battery too low need charge but the voltage could not rise more than 12 V.
It discharged either driving or in park when battery sign on which indicated either voltage regulator malfunction or alternator could not generate higher than 12 V so it would not charge battery when it should.
So that battery symbol mean battery too low need charge but the voltage could not rise more than 12 V.
At 175kMi don't think twice: replace the voltage regulator with OEM unit. It has the integrated brushset.
After that if you still see crazy voltages, you'll know the regulator is out of question!
Some of these cars deep drain batteries while driving.
Keep your eyes on the dash for low voltage (<12.3V) and high current (>30A).
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; 06-18-2022 at 02:34 PM.
So that voltage regulator is part of alternator which mean I can open alternator and disassembly and replace the voltage regulator which cost around $100 OEM or OE around $50 in FCP Euro.
So that voltage regulator is part of alternator which mean I can open alternator and disassembly and replace the voltage regulator which cost around $100 OEM or OE around $50 in FCP Euro.
yes sir, exactly!
Go with FCP Valeo OE replacement part. This reg. is easily removed from the alternator.
While your serpentine is out... consider renewing (Conti. belt + spring tensioner + plastic idlers) kit unless done recently.
Based on my vin WDDHF8JB5DA669595 2013 E350 4matic in WIS it listed voltage regulator 0041541306 (Mercedes Original OEM) $109.99 and also listed other number 0041541206 Valeo OE $46.69. I chat with FCP Euro support and he told me it only fit 1141541306. I would like to use cheaper one because it make by the one manufacture OEM part. Can somebody confirm if 0041541206 will fit in case ever used that part.?
Forget fleeBay, too many junk counterfeits!
I'd buy from FCP or any reputable distributor (Pelican, Peach,...) where you can trust the supply-chain of genuine parts.
Forget fleeBay, too many junk counterfeits!
I'd buy from FCP or any reputable distributor (Pelican, Peach,...) where you can trust the supply-chain of genuine parts.
Thank for advice I will order from FCP so got life time warranty in case
The problem went away for few days then suddenly battery sign permanently lighted and alternator stopped function as it should be. The temperature at that time is 110F and not enough power in battery to go back home about 20 miles from home. I have to take the battery out and full charge at home so I can bring home the car. I did order OEM voltage regulator from FCP Euro via ground shipment two days before alternator not working anymore so I have to wait around 5 days. I received the part and it stranger no mercedes brand logo and the mercedes part number not written in the part.
I found out the old part in my car almost look similar and no mercedes logo
The brush is so short which make the alternator could not generate power to supply power to car and charge the battery. That is after 182k miles and 9 years.
After voltage regulator replaced problem solved.
Because 182k miles now at start some time it made sound under 1 or 2 seconds. Next project will be replacing 2 timing tensioned and 2 oil valve check under that tensioner. At same time I will check if Cam Adjuster need replacement or not.
Because 182k miles now at start some time it made sound under 1 or 2 seconds. Next project will be replacing 2 timing tensioned and 2 oil valve check under that tensioner. At same time I will check if Cam Adjuster need replacement or not.
These two tensioners sounds like a real good plan to loose some of the engine vibrations.
Have you replaced the PCV valve that swamps intake with engine oil?
If yours is not acting up perhaps you should just leave it alone until it starts hissing loudly at idle.
My 2014 PCV has been passing over 1Qt per oil change since the 1st Mile... it features the improved designed with the built-in diaphragm
Normally I'd expect around 80-100kMi from a decent design.
So far no oil loss. This the list of what replaced:
1. Front and rear shock with Bilstein B4 snd B6 around 120 k miles. Tire wear short with uneven eear because hit at least 4 pot holes.
2. Front drive shaft of 4 matic plus catalytic converter and one oxygen sensor around 140k miles. It may caused big impact from hit steep 2 inch pot hole which caused passenger side front tire blowout and front and rear rim bending. Front shaft damaged around 6 months after that hit pot hole incident.
3. Front drive shaft gear that had inner u joint broke around 162 k miles. I have to open transfer case to replace that gear and all bearing and inner race in transfer case. The u joint corroded so bad. It mau caused by the shop replace front drive shaft didn't regrease around that u joint and put silicon glue on plastic cover close to that u joint.
4 The same time i did repair transfer case i also replace:
a. Rear diff both side seal because of slow leak
b. rear diff oil replaced
c rear shaft intermediate bearing.
d rear shaft flex disc
e both engine mount
f transmission mount
g. fix corrosion on junction between rear and middle part of exhaust.
5. I did replaced agm battery around 100 k miles
6 regular front and brake pad maybe aroind 60k miles
7. Replace all rim because one of them had small leak and i did fixed bend and broken rim 4 times. Replace from 18x18.7 to 17x18 and tire from 245-45/R18 to 235-50/R17 to protect car in case hit pot hole. More rubber and air better protection than look good big rim.
Preventive action taken:
1. Reduce oil change from 10k to 5k miles
2. Reduce transmission oil change from 70k to 60k miles
3. Switch oil from mobil one to Liqui Moly plus ceratev oil additive. And flush with liqui moly engine flush every 15 k miles
4. Reduce diff oil replace half the mileage recommended.
06-17-2022, 08:50 PM
