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awesome........
I can't reach that connector near torsional damper pulley, me have aftercooler blocking... but me have X26 intermediate connector, lucky.
How are you going to define the oil pressure increase under 3,500 RPM when you do not yet have an oil pressure gauge and sensor Cali ?
ADD: The 2-stage oil solenoid on my engine consumes 750ish milliamps. If you use only 140 ohms resistor which will heat up 100 miiliamps, it may trigger DTC I think.
It seems MB has minimum of like under 80% target load not achieved as open circuit. The 5 watts footwell light, the coding setting i seen is minimum as 300 milliamps load if I recall correctly.
I would still go for incandescent 3watt x 2 bulb as load and add 1 amp fuse, because the engine bay ambient temperature is so hot already at 90C for me, one will need wire wound type power resistor capable of 250+ Celcius and not low heat tolerance color stripes one using carbon. Incan bulb failure mode will be open circuit, how about resistor ? Can resistor be overheated and become CLOSED circuit by something melting inside and fusing ?
Zipping by highway speeds with unrestricted oil cooling @ 1500Rpm
I only drove 5Mi to my lunch stop... I already can tell you the low end torque improvement is wow !
I attribute the difference to better VVT positioning and reduced friction under torque. Difference is so significant that it can not just be friction only.
More testing before Sunday ends in California.
I want to listen to engine idle and see about burning oil smell.... I am sure less heat stress.
Undoing oil yoyo is proven transformative.
✌️
+++++ OIL VEY :
Unrestricted pistons sprayers means
Stable oil temperature means
Stable viscosity means
Stable pressure means
Stable VVT solenoid control means
Proper camshafts positioning means
Significant torque increase
Clean carbon-free components
Reduced air polluents (EPA!)
Normally long oil life
This 5mn free upgrade is amazing.
+++++ UNLOCKED VVT RATTLE:
> The way unrestricted oil pressure transforms VVT response has me wondering if low pressure is linked to the VVT lock wearing out...
> The VVT lock pins are used to mechanically hold position during low oil conditions.
> What do you think?
Yes, test drive confirmed hesitations while cruising off from idle are GONE. This means the low oil output was starving VVT -
Not anymore ✌️
++++ Digital Geek...:
I think you can programmatically disable pump solenoid by faulting it.
Set the "short circuit" Max load condition to be equal to "300mA". That's below what the solenoid coil is draining.
Now the ECU should see the working solenoid as faulty and disables it.
No need to unplug anything then.
Falks who sell software solutions can integrate that rework or integrate solution to a dongle similar to ECO Disabler.
👏
++++ 100 Miles Summary :
This upgrade is a keeper.
We went in to cool dry pistons and came out with more efficient power
I can only imagine the video of your first trip on twin-turbos... this normal oil pressure will give your engine smooth torque below 3000.Rpm due to improved camshaft timings.
You'll have power all over the place .
Drive carefully, we got more things to discover.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; 08-14-2023 at 01:06 AM.
Reason: metadata
Schaefflerr automotive who makes VVT system I read in one of their white paper, did explain the challenge of newer engines wanting to save fuel by reducing oil pressure,
and that is another challenge for the VVT system to operate well under reduced oil pressure, given it is a hydraulic based system needing them precious oil pressure.
I bet you are a "polite" driver Cali, compared to my leaded right foot.
I for now ( until I test in open road oil valve disconnected ) have no issue on response speed of the engine ( I also have a turbo assist where I have peak torque 480NM as low as 1,500 RPM ) in regards to VVT activation because
the ECM knows my driving style.
The under the piston oil spay nozzle is the mystery as we can not yet trace its actual operating pressure.
For sure at 3,550 RPM we know that oil pressure 50PSI minimum is achieve-able and MB stated we get the nozzle oil spray by then , but maybe the nozzle can actually spray at say 35PSI ?
Maybe with me having access to engine oil temperature aside from true coolant temp via OBD2, I can see some differences when I do the oil valve defeat.
Keep your test going for more Cali, more data the better.
Here is my plan for the wiring...........
So I can choose to defeat or use the 2-stage oil valve
I sure hope the toggle switch can survive 90+ Celcius engine bay temperature at bad traffic jam
Confirmed, the X26 no 4 connector uses SLK2.8 for big terminal and small one uses MLK1.2. So I got the de-pinning tool ...yipeee !!!!
Since my X26 no 4 is part of the engine wiring assy, I can't trace it. Good thing the P/N is printed on it and the headlight is also using it....YEP on my 641 dynamic LED same connector too.
I give up, I could not find the mechanical lock for this Delphi/Mercedes connector P/N A0525455626
De-pinning tool only push down on the terminal "ears" but when a connector body has a secondary lock, we must un-lock it too.
I managed to un-clip the 4 latches, but I still can't remove anything part of the connector.
The MB-Delphi version is so much more complex than the newer connector or other variant of Delphi, example below a nice easy one.
Front cover to align and lock the terminals + rear insert to lock the cables.
My engine uses 2 of these, headlights 2 also = 4.
I will take 1 pair to tear-open for learning sake and the 2 pair for back up.
I am sometimes amazed on how designers can make such complicated interlocking connectors.
They are so small and all black, very difficult to experiment tearing them open without breaking them.....unless I know how they clipped together hahahah.
Last edited by S-Prihadi; 08-17-2023 at 08:22 AM.
Reason: ADD INFO
Me have to test how hot will the 3.4watts bulb will get if operated in engine bay ambient temperature.
I do not want it too be too hot and be short lived (A) , or melt its own connector(B) like my friend's C200 W204 daylight or risk other wiring which may accidentally touch it (C).
I can avoid the C , but I must test A and B.
My highest recorded engine bay ambient temp was 96C. After a hard run and then suddenly into a creeping traffic jam.
So I must create an ambient temperature approx 100C and power these bulbs ( plan to use 2 of 3.4 watts ) and see what will happen.
When I tested incan bulb temperature during my conversion to LED for interior lights, these are the temperature data I got.
3.4watt vs 5 watt incan bulbs.
Why I choose 3.4watts instead of 5 watts is obvious.
I tested further today, using physical thermocouple touching the bulb and using heat gun to generate 100C ambient temp.
I let bulb run for 15 minutes, no more increase in temperature.
Now the simulated ambient temp of 100C using heat-gun, thermocouple #2
Quite interesting, ambient 31-32C without heat gun, bulb temperature risen to 74.1C ( thermocouple #1 ) and that is 42C rise.
With ambient temp of 100C, the rise is only 3C.
The bulb consumes 3.22 watt. It is from Honda motorcycle, genuine one.
I bought genuine Yamaha motorbike rear tailight wiring assy, so that the bulb socket can be as genuine as possible and has best heat resistance.
I was thinking to use some sort of metal holder for 2 x bulbs and the toggle switch I will be using, but me very dummy with metal works.
So I googled around looking for ready to use small metal plate and I found what I think is use-able.
It has not arrive yet today, probably tomorrow.
It is an add-on handle for cupboard, and is of aluminum. I bought 2 variant, later I will choose which one suits best.
Already anodized if not painted, save me time.
The plan is to install it here :
That is some sort of composite plastic frame and not metal there.
Simulation
Will keep bulb away from hose at least 2-3cm.
The switch is by Hella. I hope I got a genuine one from that local source. Its like below : 5 amps rated at 12V
I will rig the wire and drill the alu plate for 2 bulbs and one switch placement when it comes and when the connector X26 comes from Germany in 3+ weeks, I shall then install it.
YEAH !!!!
460 milliamps will not trigger DTC, if 2 bulbs of each 3.22 watts is used as dummy load. ECM is happy.
I guess ECM anticipate hot and cold oil working load of the 2 stage oil valve.
The test SET UP
See the DMM can stick with ease on the dashboard. Thanks to my favorite no-mess no-trace remove-able double side tape called NANO tape. I love that clean but sticky thing !!!! https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nano_t...20temperatures.
.
. 17.1 minutes of data. From engine COLD.
.
.
Video log of the test. I hope its completed processing to HD by the time u guys see it.
MS, this is great instrumentation! Love the dummy load bulbs showing activity of disconnected solenoid in addition to pressure and temperatures.
Idling pressure 40psi... high?
I was pleasantly surprised how high the idle pressure is... Temperature - viscosity - pressure are directly related.
ECU commanding low pressure at driving RPM... WTF!
The test bulbs positively show the amazing M276 ECU commanding low oil pressure at driving speeds instead of idle only.
Without a decent oil pressure sensor the ECU totally ignores actual oil pressure. Low oil pressure means... nothing good for owners.
> Connecting more dots:
This poor-lube game is also true for the TT-V8 engines Master Tasos fixes in UAE shop: wasted VVT pins, defective oil pumps, wasted camshafts and HPFP rollers, scored cylinder sleeves... his bread & butter repair business.
The funny thing is when you drive with normal oil pressure, the VVT has enough oil pressure to work. The difference in torque is day and night right from idle.
Unrestricted piston cooling helps lower engine heat.
Ultimately the honnest ECU fix is to only limit oil pressure below 800 Rpm, not while driving - Since all of this amazing sick game serves no honest purpose: I cancelled the oil-yoyo.
When you get your TT on the road you're gonna have a blast with the improved power curve.
++++ BANKS Temp with/without...:
The way you have a toggle switch makes it possible to look at how normal oil pressure affects temperatures. It removes heat better from the engine by a significant margin (car doesn't overheat indoor garage after driving).
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; 08-21-2023 at 05:01 PM.
I seen from my driving logs, some and not always, that when we apply engine load, the oil pressure increase is not always locked to 3,500+ RPM....some is sooner.
I think the ECM knows that I am wanting more power. It can sense engine load and throttle commanded.
Cold 88F/31C oil albeit warm if 88F for our body is thick hahahah
Our M276 is built with the same amazing recipes.
Poor lubrication caused copious amount of camshaft plus piston material to end up jamming the crankshaft lubrification holes. That spun a bearing... period the End!
We can see the two-steps oil pump chambers with solenoid harness extension.
Stupid software game killed perfectly good engine - - A lot of people wanna explain bad-luck as random "Act of G.d"... me like root cause fixes. I pulled the plug when opportunity knocked 200Mi ago.
> CHALLENGE QUESTION :
Can someone use MB DTC-MONACO to set the oil pump pressure control only at idle or below 750rpm.
That sould be a awesome
Restricted oil supply is robbing engine VVT torque and producing friction damage to soft metals. Other MB teardown video show similarities. Twin DOHC frictions require oil protection.
Yes, I seen that video from I DO CARS. I land on his channel once in a while when the engine is of interest.
When I was studying HP pump fuel lobe numbers on the Bank 1 camshaft, I use his video
I think there is a MAP inside the ECM for the 2-stage oil valve activation and not simple RPM based only. Like fueling or AFR MAP.
It will be a big job to re-write the program and re-flash the memory.... I think.
I needed to grind down the alu plate to allow the protrusion of the plastic "wall".
I am so bad at using grinder hahahah
Progress is not too bad...........
I will not use bolts and nuts. I will use 3M VHB double side tape and 2 of cable-ties.
I also can not use 1 of the original pre-drilled hole on the alu plate as its position is at a not flat area of the composite black plastic "wall" of the car.
The switch blade, its top part has 2 cm clearance from the coolant hose. So it is safe..............
This looks like a good engine mod to be able to switch oil solenoid easily.
switch with exposed internals...
The one thing I would add is waterproofing for the switch itself: toogle switch optional waterproofing cap
> LOST'N FOUND AWESOME TORQUE :
- The low oil pressure practically disables VVT at low rpm, precisely what variable valves timing is supposed to help: engine low rpm, right ? That's what you get when it works: GREAT COMPUTER DRIVEN TIMINGS!
I find it amazing to disable all that goodness traded for overheated metallic frictions (*)
- How do I know: normal pressure makes a world of difference with chain tensioner stiffness and positioning of VVT phasers.
- The VVT is controlled by the ECU with Cam Sensor & Cam Solenoids but NEEDS OIL TO ACTUATE POSITION!!
- Without normal pressure VVT gears are forced into locked mode at idle... hesitations during acceleration, sweet.
> Wrist Pins of Pistons:
Have you wondered how oil gets to the pin on the piston bottom?
The pin has the worst job: high heat, high pressure, poor cooling.
> Older Engines.... :
Some of these engines can survive marginal lube into old age.
Perhaps some engines have a more conservative idle-only low oil limitations.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; 08-25-2023 at 09:44 PM.
Yes the rubber boot is a good idea, thanks. I bought those for my boat.
Too bad the Hella switch I am using has extra long toggle blade and the boot will need to be cut open at its top to allow full entry and would still at least
give some water-splash protection. I will need to find a metric thread one for the boot nut as Hella uses metric. Most USA sourced one are imperial thread boot nut because USA made a lot of those marine toggle switch.
I was thinking to fill that air-hole at the Hella switch with CRC di-electric grease which is 200C+ capable, so it wont become liquid at engine bay temperature and can prevent water-splash entry.
The switch itself all 3 wire contact points underneath I use hot-glue as water protection and then 3M electrical tape and then Tesa tape.
==================
The Pentastar oil pump oil-valve. That is different on how MB set it up. It is not fail-safe design. It need the oil-valve to be ON to increase pressure, but they have engine oil pressure sensor which is good.
The oil-valve in this Penta also seems to double duty as final pressure maintainer, hence you see below when the oil valve is OFF or defective, at above 3,200 RPM the oil pressure is allowed by design to
shoot to 97PSI.
MB uses mechanical pressure regulator to maintain the near 60PSI maximum oil pressure.
Too high an oil pressure is also not good for seal and certain very tight oil film floating lubrication.
OIL VALVE/SOLENOID ACTIVATED, NORMAL OPERATION
Damn, why not test to at least 3,200 RPM and better to 3,500RPM for above ?.....as there is another adjustment by PCM I am sure at those higher RPM,
I was thinking near 60psi would be the final highest regulated oil pressure.
I think he does not know the actual oil pump pressure mapping, like how MB WIS explained to us.
Here it seems Penta engineer is targeting 43-45 psi once 2,000 RPM and above. Looks nice.
MB target is lower than this. NOT NICE !!
So here we look at 2 different way engineers at MB and Penta set up this 2 stage oil valve if in FAILED MODE and pressure profile wise when valve is normal...sweet one Cali.
I hated the strong oily smell since new and the oil disappearing out of the crankcase.
You are really going to enjoy the new performance and the much improved engine cooling in slow traffic or while speeding.
Are the above tests with valve OFF or ON?
It clearly shows the fast response of solenoid management.
> VVT work vs. oil pressure:
It would be interesting to compare the VVT phasers work vs. available oil. In particular when engine transitions away from idle.
1- a smooth ramp 650 to 2000 RPM vs. camshaft position - Solenoid disabled.
2- a smooth ramp 650 to 2000 RPM vs. camshaft position - Solenoid enabled.
The RPM between 650 to 1500 is going to be most interesting.
With low oil solenoid active, we should witness VVT come out of self-Lock when enough oil allow it to start working late.... 1250.RPM?
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; 08-28-2023 at 08:33 PM.
The test was oil valve connected and car was stationary, I was not testing the VVT per-se, it was to test the data acquisition speed of the Benz-Ninja Xentry.
Remember my Open Port Xentry Passthru was so slow that I thought my VVT solenoids were the SLOW ONES
Good news. My X26 connector just arrived last nite at local post office and will be custom inspected/paid in like 4 days. Yipee !!!!
So by next week Monday I will get the X26 connector, and spend 1 - 2 days trying to strip it naked if possible without breaking it.... LOL.
By the next next week, my oil valve bypass circuit would be ready I hope.
I will do test with and without the oil valve active, and it will be a loaded on the road test and not a stationary test.
We need to have the baseline and see where actually the improvement happened.
Too bad I can not log oil pressure via Banks Gauge when Xentry is in use to log those VVT in action, due to them using the same OBD2 port and parallel installation is not allowed as the Xentry will probably go banana.
Just a quick read about the oil pump pressure solenoid valve. It seems the problem is not only with the gasoline engines, but across the board with the smart engines. Perhaps @kajtek1 can shine in on his experiences with the latest diesel engines.
08-13-2023, 04:39 AM
awesome........
ECM is happy.
