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Becareful when describing "arms" for suspension system. Use MB item number as per EPC or use this : https://www.ssg.asia/cats/#/catalogs?catalogId=mercedes
Everthing is CONTROL ARM if you want to call it.
Since MB WIS is where the torque spec is, use MB language and none others. In fact MB also do very poor with description and can name 1 item 3 different names.
Hence I said, use EPC item number if not P/N
@konigstiger Do you also have the instruction sheets/torque specs for the rear drop links (aka anti-roll bar links) and the front tie rod ends?
And finally - how about the ball joints that the cross strut attaches to? The document assumes that the strut will be replaced without changing the ball joint (which seems unlikely) so only gives torque spec for one of the ends of the ball joint. The other is almost definitely going to be the same, but it would be nice to know for sure.
There's a good video of this on a W212 E63 that shows the process of changing the ball joint, but no torque specs are included (below). I think they're 50nm + 90degs according to the sheet you kindly provided, but I've always found them a little tricky to decipher!
Teddy,
I am glad to help
I respect anyone who seek nut/bolt torque setting on such vital components.
Youtube is full of shiet videos of people working with impact hammers and not a torque wrench.
Now, not to underestimate you in anyway, you do know that setting the torque for anything on suspension system which is move-able...sort of, you need to have the car at normal ride height...yes ?
If you dont, your bushings on the arms will get damaged fast.
it would be so much better than the crow-foot wrench I used, because the +180 degree on arms bolt after 120Nm is not a joke.... it is like close to 300Nm.
I bought these late, after the camber and caster job , because those 4 heads must import from Germany and special order, 3 months. This is as thin or low profile as we can get.
You will need 21, 19 and 18mm as most useful for suspension work.
Mine is the 80-400Nm but in Foot Pound because it was on sale as an older model not the QUICK one....LOL
Just in case you do not have the wheel support like mine or alignment rack to get proper ride height while being able to be under the car, avoid using common jack with wheels to lift up the arms.
The arms for does go up at an angle and I have had my jack with wheel catapulted out from its position...yep, no joke.
Technique like below photo is dangerous for arms lifting high degree if you are unlucky. Technique like below is okey for aligning the bolt holes of the sway bar link or 2cm ish of suspension arm movement ONLY.
No no no no...... still 10% chance your wheeled jack will be kicked out by arm tension
It is safer if you use 2 small bottle jack and use wood as the lift bar in the middle. Bottle jack has no wheels.
Of course wheel support like mine or an alignment rack platform is safest option.
My plan would be to tighten 'lightly' then put the wheels on and drive on to my (plastic) ramps and torque everything up then, as advised by others. This seems reasonable in theory but I don’t know how much space there will be! This job would be 5x easier with a lift…
That torque wrench does seem like a good idea - I'll see what I can do with regards to finding one here in the Uk!
Thanks again!
Edit: wow those torque wrenches aren't cheap huh! I'll have to make do with my traditional one...!
Last edited by TeddyRuxpin; Nov 10, 2022 at 12:10 PM.
Teddy, on the tarmac first measure wheel center to fender distance vs when lifted up using rubber block at the front.
Usually if only the front is up and rear still on tarmac, front suspension carry more load and arms may swing up a tiny bit higher.
Teddy wrote
I’ve found the torque specs for the rear sway bar links on a w204, which is roughly the same design:
Top: 50nm
Bottom: 20nm + 180deg
Does anybody know if the W212 is the same?
YES, those are the correct values.
I just got my naughty WIS 2020 up and running, its been BAD lately, always failed to run.
If you did not mentioned those 2 different torque values, I would never know where to actually find them.
Crazy MB engineers. Top: 50nm <<<< this is under REAR SUSPENSION section Bottom: 20nm + 180deg <<< this is under REAR AXLE section
Man, I miss how Japanese cars simply place a Nm torque information box besides the component image.
The rear axle components at WIS vs EPC, damn their names are different.
Even in WIS different documents call them different names...holy crap.
I'm thinking of renting a 2-post lift from a local mechanic on Monday to tackle this job - it's now too cold to do this outside! It's not too expensive.
I am still a little unsure how to tackle the issue of tightening the bolts while the wheels are level. As mentioned, I was going to use the ramps in the picture above, but the torque settings are so high that I think you'd struggle to be able to get a long bar in to move around etc.
Or is it doable? Do you need to have a place that has a ramp that you can drive onto?
Do mechanics use a gearbox jack and do it with the wheels off?
Finally, does anybody have the torque setting for the outer tie rod ends, for the side that connects to the steering knuckle? That's the last one I need. I'm hoping to do the tie rod ends, but again a bit wary of throwing off the tracking for the ride home - I would get an alignment the next day and need to get it close enough to drive, but have never done it before.
U must first measure the wheel/rim mid-hub distance to a marked fender. Use plumber bob so that you can see pure straight by gravity.
My rear one is about 37-38cm, front abouth 37cm too.
Our W212 is about 2,000KG.
My E400 exact weight is below :
So if on a 4 post lift, left and right side is about 1,000KG each.
Say u jack up front RIGHT suspension to 37cm, that means you are jacking up to the tune of 400-ish KG to make arm or wheel at 37cm.
It should be all right but do not LIFT UP suspension too much or else the 2 right side lift touch pad will be carrying less weight.
I tried once over jacking up the front RIGHT supension while on a Quick Jack, which also is a 2 rubber support block per side jack system ( max 50cm off the floor ),
I can see the E400 jack pads on the RIGHT side at Quick Jack lifting up a tiny bit, we can tell that the rubber block is no more heavily compressed.
At 50CM working clearance , it was no joke to torque the arms for the final 180 degrees. If ground clearance is taller than your say 120cm breaker bar, you wont suffer so much.
I use leg, stomach and whatever Kung-Fu I can use , but need one person to hold the bolt head while I tighten the NUT.
Stay safe
PS I borrowed a friend's 4 wheel scale/weight system. Not mine.
Last edited by S-Prihadi; Nov 30, 2022 at 11:50 AM.
Thanks - I understand about measuring the hub to the fender/wing, but didn’t you say it wasn’t safe to use the jack? I was worried that it was going to slip out
I am going to rent a place with a 2 post lift and those gearbox jacks, but am worried about the jack slipping
I’m also considering paying for the job, but I have had so much work done recently and need more done so the costs is really getting out of hand
Last edited by TeddyRuxpin; Dec 1, 2022 at 07:11 AM.
Sorry, I was not clear on the jacking part.
I tried jacking while car on Quick Jack but decided that best safest is using my TIRE STAND after once the jack got kicked out by my front suspension.
Rear suspension arm the one holding the damper and spring is more forgiving by shape for decent "lock" for jacking.
The front wheel knuckle is not jack friendly at all, unless your jack has good U shape end point which can "lock" to the arm or ball joint.
==============================
I think if you can tighten just enough those arms bolts-nuts and drive a short distance, and rent an aligment rack time, anyway you need to align the wheel too if your replace the steering tie rod.
Some workshop have similar flat bed rack like alignment rack but can raise car full workshop height.
My indie workshop has 2 post lift with 4 lift points and the flat bed rack with 4 post like below :
Wheel alignment shop , its alignment rack working space under the car is also very good.
Unfortunately I don't believe those two will be an option. Currently my options are to use the ramps in the photo above (front wheels only) or to use a 'hydraulic transmission jack', which is what I see in most YouTube videos with professional mechanics, as in the video below.
The garage I am renting does not have a drive on ramp/lift option.
I will need everything torqued up as the drive home is 1/2 hour. I will take it for alignment the next morning.
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, because those 4 heads must import from Germany and special order, 3 months. This is as thin or low profile as we can get.
, but need one person to hold the bolt head while I tighten the NUT.
