My 2014 E350 is no longer under a service contract so I will be changing the oil. The dealer was not using an oil extractor - they were removing the drain plug. I was surprised when I found this out since I know they do both. With this model and year is there a difference between the two as to why the dealer would drain from the bottom? Obviously the extractor may take a bit longer but seemingly easier.

Thanks

 

You're much better off doing a search on this topic. Here is one of the better ones... https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...xtraction.html

It's been discussed across many forums on MBWorld. The WIS instruction is extractor - very surprised the dealer didn't unless they couldn't figure out 4MATIC cars 2014+ W212 using a tube doesn't work. Is your car a 4MATIC? If so, see my contribution to the above link, #59.

 

I do both as a service shop. It's not worth the trouble unless you have one of the units with shop air. It takes like 20 minutes to extract all the oil and you have to pump it every few minutes to maintain pressure as the capacity shrinks down from being full of oil, it's hot, splashes everywhere from the tube when you're moving the unit around. The pump itself is expensive, like $100+, and you're only doing this 1-2x a year at most. Getting the car on ramps and removing 8mm hex bolts for the splash pan isn't too bad. Then after that you would need to dispense the oil into a recycling container anyway thus adding even more tasks.

If you're at home and you just want to do convenient oil changes, it works pretty well if you don't want to get under the car. I'm warning ANYBODY though the Mityvac 7201 sucks, it starts to leak at the couplers , and it's for very very limited consumer use and it will not hold up to a shop environment where I otherwise take great care of my tools.

I don't even use the oil extractor to pump oil anymore, the slippery pete plus 722.9 ATF adapter from Amazon is literally faster at doing the one thing I was told I'd need the Mityvac for, I have to get the car on a lift to pry on things and check suspension and brakes anyway, but it used to be a convenient way to service Mercedes. That is the proper way it's done if you have the shop air unit. The Harbor Freight one is built much better than the Mityvac 7201 it's based on.

 

@kjb55 Thanks for the link. I had found that but did not read that far down. Your contribution was informative. Mine is not the 4MATIC. I have the same engine as you 276.952 so I will try the suction method (will find a good reviewed extracto). I was surprised too - and unless they just decided to charge me for the crush washer for the drain plug. That is what prompted me to call them and ask what they have been doing.

 

@ChrisHimself Interesting read (good info). I was looking at ramps too. Any worthwhile suggestions. Thanks

 

I have used an extractor for all my MBs since 2004. I almost think I could do this in a 3-piece suit, since everything -- including oil filter housing -- is on top of the engine.

The key is to thoroughly warm the oil first, starting the oil change after running some errand. Second tip is to loosen the oil filter housing before trying to extract the oil. Loosening the cap breaks the pressure seal within the engine and allows ALL the oil to drain completely into the oil pan.

Buy your topsider pump once, and it will pay for itself with the first use (versus dealer). BTW, all 4 mercedes dealers in my area use extraction...

 

My first few attempts, I had a tough time getting all the oil out of my '14 E350. Then I got one of these. It turned the task from a pain into a breeze.


My only regret is that my extractor is the manual pump style. It can be cumbersome at times. I am probably going to sell it and get one that works of compressed air.

You may hear a lot of people claim that you can't get all the oil out with an oil extractor, and that the drain plug is the only way to do the job right. So I ran my own experiment once. I drained the oil with the extractor method. Then I pulled the drain plug and captured the remaining oil in a conical graduated cylinder. Less than 4 3 oz. of oil drained out through the drain plug. So for me, this small amount is negligible, especially compared to the amount of oil that always stays in an engine at any oil change.

 

Why complicate simple stuff... the top side extractor is a great shortcut to prevent dealing with bottom covers, finger tight fasteners.

The big deal with that engine service is :
What is a good OIL here?

 

Call me old fashioned but I put my wagon on Rhino Ramps and crawl underneath while I'm still physically able to. Been doing it that way since I was a teenager and got my first car. While I'm underneath, I check for leaks on the bottom that wouldn't show up otherwise with the belly trays in place.

 

This one's pretty nice.https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben...tor/lcb446sch/

 

I can echo this experience. Everytime I use my Mitivac I think that it is going to be the last because it is such a pain in the *** to use for all of the reasons sited above.

 

I had Mityvac for several years till 1 of the friends did borrow it and stop all communication. He was corporate jet pilot, so I keep wondering what happen to him.
After that I bought $29 electric pump, who clamps onto jumping prongs and pump the oil in the time I check belts and other things.
For Mityvac crucial was to use engine tube and avoid small tubing, who cut the efficiency. On OM606 engine, the big Mityvac tube would fit into engine tube funnel end and with some holding would seal there.
Other friends made rubber adapters, who would clamp between tubes.
With electric pump time is not crucial.
MB makes dipstick tubes design for oil extraction for at least 50 years. I removed oil pan on OM603 engine and did some tests. Oil plug was placed sideways and 1/2 of the pan length. That always left several oz of oil in the pan.
Dipstick tube was placed in rear corner of the pan, so with 2x plank placed under opposite wheel, I could extract, with some gargling oil down to couple of teaspoons left.
I had friend living in Germany about 30 years ago. At the time cars had oil filter replaced every other oil change, so doing oil alone, with service station equipped with commercial vacuum and oil dispenser it was about 5 minutes in & out.
Doing the extraction I can make it with white gloves. Just get couple of shopping bags to hold filter holder for orings replacement.

 

I use a vacuum pump connected to a mityvac. much fasted than a manual or compressed air model. Helps bleeding brakes too.

 

I think it is way more pain to drop the bottom cover than any "trouble" with the Mityvac. I have used it since I bought my car in 2012. I have 186000 miles on the clock and have changed oil every 5000 miles. The first 5 years the dealer changed oil at every 10 000 miles, but I changed myself between at 5000 miles. Dealer changed oil as my car was under the extended warranty and I chose to let them do it in case something happened to the engine, and they cannot blame me for not changing oil for it...

So my car has seen well over 30 oil changes and just about 30 of them with the MityVac without any issues at all. Mine is the bigger one that takes the whole 9 qt. of oil in it. Super easy job if you remember to warm up the engine first. If oil is cold, it will take some time to extract using the skinny tube, but hot oil comes out in about 5 minutes. Then it goes just as easy in the empty oil jugs to take to recycle.

 

OP you could change the oil with the extractor method like others mentioned but occasionally drop the cover so you can inspect for any leaks (hopefully not) but you know how covered the undercarriage of the vehicle is, for any slow leak you want it patched before it leaks enough for it to seep through the cover.

 

I used to use ramps until I ran across QuickJack
What a game changer.

Quick Jack

 

I disagree on most of that. Not sure which extractor I got but it works very well. Its a manual pump type. Yes if the oil is cold it takes forever. If its warmed up the time is similar to getting the jack, jack stands, and tools to lift the car make it safe, remove covers, and drain the oil. Unless your in a shop with a lift its going to take longer.

Even compared to my truck that I just park and crawl under with a 5gal bucket it takes about 5min longer.

Oh and I drive about 25k miles a year so depending on how long I stretch my changes on my E250 its still about 4 a year. Anyhow this is my first vehicle with this type of oil change and I honestly like it now that I am use to it. Super easy for a DIY person without a full mechanics shop at there disposal.

 

FYI this is the extractor I bought
Not sure how it compares to the other ones but it seems to work great for my application (knocks on wood). Like has been mentioned the only time ya run into trouble is if its cold oil. I tried it one time was like 35F outside and took about 45 minutes but still did it. I had forgotten to warm up the car before hand and learned my lesson.

 

I didn't know you were local you should come hang out some time if you ever need anything! I'm in San Jose off 87/Curtner


I think you know the answer

it drains clean!


Before I joined the cult, M1, Motul, LM, Pennzoil, and even Quaker ($18.99 a 5L lol) all produced favorable drains at the full 10k interval as long as you respected their filtration requirements to get there. BITOG is a magical place.

I used my Mityvac PRETTY often for a solid 2 months, gear oil, ATF, brake fluid, multiple oil changes a day. I think it was the ATF that did it in, which was it's primary job. The harbor freight one has been more durable for me, the Mityvac is held together with glue and the couplers are rather ineffective, you can hear the entire thing wheezing and losing pressure as you're using it. The quality has really gone downhill compared to the ones I would use at the shop I interned at before starting the business.

https://www.harborfreight.com/automo...tor-57056.html

https://www.harborfreight.com/automo...xtractors.html

As for which ramps, Rhino Ramps are awesome, you put both wheels in the air, it tips the car back so itll drain a lil bit more oil.

Oil being left behind is a non issue, there is nothing noticeable about the efficiency of either method, I'm just a time guy and I need to get under there anyway since I have to inspect the car and see what kind of money is falling out for me. If its not BAD for the car or outright wrong I'm not going to argue about it, and even if it takes longer not having to reach for a jack and stands or parking a car on ramps and chocking it is actually it's own time savings

I think what happened was I saw oil extraction and I started to see red when I thought about how many Mityvac 7201 and 7300 (pneumatic shop air driven) I've had to go through cuz of warranty. I'm not alone in this either.


I'm going to fully retract my previous position and just voice my complain about a certain product, the technique itself is a lifesaver if you're a bit older and like your comfort.

You know what, I pulled it out tonight just to stir the pot lol

 

Had a similar issue. Six pilots, five of my favorite tools. (I did get the big battery charger back) Must run in the industry...
I really miss that caulking gun

 

Anyone have any experience or opinions on Race Ramps Wheel Cribs. @vich3 I like the idea of the Quick Jack but do not spend enough time on the car to warrant the cost.

 

Well I am definitely going to go the extractor route. @kajtek1 Good idea raising the opposite tire - It looks like when the tube is at the bottom end of the dip stick tube it would be on the right side so raising the passenger side would accomplish what you did?

 

Honestly, there is a debate between "frugal me" and "comfort me" about the QuickJack topic. So far, the "comfort me" says that adding the savings on doing the brakes for my car, sister's two, and the "new to us" 2015 ML350 will justify the cost plus avoid the occasional back pain afterward. Then, anything else will be bonus.

I like @kajtek1 4 post lift, but I will need another house, which I cannot justify yet.

Perhaps you need to get another car to justify the QuickJack, think about it .

 

Just raise the engine temp to operating temp. I drive about 3 miles in my neighborhood, and that does it. Longer in wintertime. But I do my yearly oil change in the Spring or Summer.

Park car on a FLAT surface (I park in my garage), and do NOT bother raising a tire on either side. I get out all but a teaspoonful or two of oil with the extractor on level ground. So, no need for further antics.

 

On my engine the dipstick tube in on passenger rear, so plank under front driver wheel works.