Hello all,

I hope everyone is doing great!

Does anyone know the WIS document numbers to show how to change the front upper and lower control arms? I am having a difficult time finding it because of how beautiful WIS's UI is. I apologize if this has been discussed in another thread before but I can't find anything online.

Thank you!

 

These suspension parts work up/down from a neutral resting position with car full weight on wheels.

>> Make sure you torque the control arm bolts in the normal resting position... not wheels loose up in the air.

This step prevents tearing apart your new arms bushings.

 

It appears to be ar33.15-p-0160ewx, but I'm just starting to feel my way around WIS. Hopefully if it isn't correct, it leads you down the right path....

 

Thank you guys for the tips!

'ar33.15-p-0160ewx' is the correct document number for a 2014 Mercedes-Benz E350 4-Matic in case anyone wants to know.

I've also attached the document below for those without WIS or for those who simply want to quickly access the file.

 

How did you determine that they need to be replaced?

 

Steering wander, steering wheel shimmy/front-end cabin vibration, bushings had some play after checking with a pry bar, and alignment is off(even after doing an alignment). Car is approaching 90k and I already did the tie rods and struts so I wanted to get these changed anyways.

Here the part numbers if you decide to change them:

Lower Control Arms(just order two of these as the parts are the same for both sides): A2123301911

Front LEFT Upper Control Arms: A2123303111

Front RIGHT Upper Control Arms: A2123303211

 

Please report the difference in how it feels to drive after you had replaced them. I am replacing a known bad tie rod end and a stabilizer link that has a split boot. When I was under the car I found that I could easily wiggle control arm about an axis perpendicular to the axis of rotation but didn't know if that meant anything. Which is a long winded way of asking how can I tell if they are bad.

 

I’ll report it as soon as I get it done. Right now, I’m not sure when I’ll do it because of my classes.

 

So I was able to change the upper control arms and all the issues I was having are pretty much gone. The only problem I have is an alignment issue but that’s usually the case after replacing suspension components. Car handles so well!

 

So what was the mileage on the arm ?

My friends RWD C200 W204, 70,000KM but like 12 years old, the bushing torn, the camber arm one.
Mine so far at 39,000KM but also a 2014 model, but RWD, is still OK.
However I have replaced the L shape ball joint ( RWD only has that L shape ball joint ), because it was not so "tight", no noise nothing.... at 25,000KM or so.
Also I have installed camber arm correction bolt due to value a bit off target, that was caused by simply 30ish laps at a track of 4KM long only or total 120KM...which torn
the boot of the sway bar link too ...LOL

Your arm A2123303111 is also the camber arm, which is always the one to suffer more.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/353222575731

 

Factory arms. I haven’t touched them until now. I drive in NY and anyone who drives in NY can tell you that the roads are not exactly suspension-friendly.

 

My local roads can compete with NYC for pot holes + ruined rail track , not to mention 2 years old only PAID highway bridge joints able to bend wheel/rim.
I am in a more unfortunate city, road quality wise.

So you done like 75,000 miles or more already ?

 

Yup, she’s at around 82,500. I do A TON of driving so I’m not surprised my control arms were shot.

Come do some driving on the Cross Island parkway and Van Wyck Expressway. We have some amazing potholes and plenty of construction zones to go around.

I always tell my friends, “be like the Van Wyck Expressway, always working on yourself”.

 

Sounds like western WA (USA). Roads and bridges are horrible. Maybe not as bad as Prihadi but still bad. The organization that takes care of them are so far behind its not funny and they keep putting there funds in the general fund which means the sleezy polititions can spend it on other items. Not to mention the contractors that get all the contracts are super sleezy.

 

Thanks for the follow-up report. Really happy to hear the improvement in driving experience. Would like to experience the same improvement but want to be sure that the parts need to be replaced.

What was worn on the control arms? Could you observe the wear prior to removal by inspection of the part? If so how? I am asking all of this because I have 150K miles on my car but the control arms seem tight but are easy to pivot at the bushing end.

 

I got no play when I did the wheel test where you wiggle the wheel while the car was jacked up. HOWEVER, I did pry around the bushing area and it seemed pretty “loose”. When I compared the old arms to the new ones, the bushings on the old ones were way easier to wiggle around with my hands compared to the new ones.

If you do end up doing the job, make sure you get an alignment.

 

I just pried the tension link bushing and found that the inner diameter of the rubber part slides on the metal part than it contacts and like you say it moves around pretty easy as compared the to other control arm bushing which it pretty stiff and tight. An FCP video indicated that it is a hydraulic filled bushing, If that is the case I think that what I am seeing is indicating that the bushing is shot because if the inner part of the rubber is sliding then the hydraulic fluid is no longer being sealed inside the bushing. They mention looking for staining due to fluid escaping but I didn't see any. The FCP video also said the tension (front) control arm is what fails first. Do you agree that my bushing is shot. The only reason I ask is that there doesn't appear to be any cracking of the bushing or staining.

 

From my research, there shouldn’t be much movement with the bushing. Looks can be very deceiving too.

I am curious. How many miles do you have on the car?

 

150K;

Does anybody know the correct part number for the 4matic struts?

 

With that mileage, I’d definitely get them changed out.

What’s your VIN number? I can give you the part number for the struts from WIS. FCP Euro sells them. That’s where I got my sets of struts from.

 

Awesome! Thank you so much! Mine is an 2010 E350 4Matic luxury model VIN = WDDHF8HBXAA115230. What is the correct suspension code for my car? Are 4maitc and RWD struts different?



If it isn't too much trouble (if it is don't bother) can you also provide the tension control arm and separate bushing part number. What tool did you use to separate the control arm from the knuckle? Considering just replacing the bushings as the ball joints seem tight. Don't know how realistic that will be. Probably not smart I know but I hate to throw away good parts. I'm weird that way.

Also thinking about disassembling the struts before I order the new ones to evaluate their condition. I know at 150K they in all likelihood need to be redone. I bought the car with 93K miles and it still seems to handle ok but I have experienced unwanted road imperfection transmission and vibrations. Hoping the control arms and new tie rod end will go a long ways to improving that. But if I need struts I want to do them now before I get it aligned.

 

Of course! You're missing one character at the end of the VIN. Send it to me and I'll get you everything you need!
Never mind, I copied and pasted the VIN incorrectly. Give me a few minutes!

 

I’m not too sure if the RWD and 4-MATIC struts are different. I’d assume so considering the drivetrains are different from one another.

As for your suspension code, I couldn’t find anything through a VIN decoder. Maybe someone else might have better luck?

To separate the ball joints from the steering knuckle(in case you want to do it), I used a ball joint separator. It looks something like the GearWrench 3916D.

Here are some parts numbers!

STRUTS
FRONT STRUTS - A 212 323 58 00
REAR STRUTS - A 212 320 06 30

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...ein-2123235900
^Comes with both front and rear struts, bolts, and mounts. I used a similar kit for my car when I replaced my front struts.

CONTROL ARMS

LEFT UPPER(DOES NOT INCLUDE BEARING) - A 212 330 31 11
RIGHT UPPER(DOES NOT INCLUDE BEARING) - A 212 330 32 11
UPPER CONTROL ARM BEARINGS(same part for both sides) - A 212 333 03 14

LOWER CONTROL ARM(Same part for both sides of the car) - A 212 330 19 11

I bought my control arms from AutohausAZ(it was cheaper than FCP Euro lol) and it came with the bushings on the upper control arms. I think if you go to a MB parts center, they’ll probably give you the arm itself without the bushing judging from what WIS/EPC says.

Hope I answered all your questions!

 

Thank you kindly!

 

Anybody replaced the Control Arm bushings using Auto Parts rental tools?

Also who is the OEM for the control arms?