2014 E350 4-MATIC Control Arms
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2014 E350
2014 E350 4-MATIC Control Arms
Hello all,
I hope everyone is doing great!
Does anyone know the WIS document numbers to show how to change the front upper and lower control arms? I am having a difficult time finding it because of how beautiful WIS's UI is. I apologize if this has been discussed in another thread before but I can't find anything online.
Thank you!
I hope everyone is doing great!
Does anyone know the WIS document numbers to show how to change the front upper and lower control arms? I am having a difficult time finding it because of how beautiful WIS's UI is. I apologize if this has been discussed in another thread before but I can't find anything online.
Thank you!
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Joined: Apr 2019
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From: Silicon Valley
W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
One big deal...
Hello all,
I hope everyone is doing great!
Does anyone know the WIS document numbers to show how to change the front upper and lower control arms? I am having a difficult time finding it because of how beautiful WIS's UI is. I apologize if this has been discussed in another thread before but I can't find anything online.
Thank you!
I hope everyone is doing great!
Does anyone know the WIS document numbers to show how to change the front upper and lower control arms? I am having a difficult time finding it because of how beautiful WIS's UI is. I apologize if this has been discussed in another thread before but I can't find anything online.
Thank you!
>> Make sure you torque the control arm bolts in the normal resting position... not wheels loose up in the air.
This step prevents tearing apart your new arms bushings.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Nov 15, 2023 at 03:43 PM.
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Joined: Feb 2003
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From: Charlotte, NC
Had: 1987 300TD, Had: 2004 C230 Sport Sedan, Have: 2014 E350 Sport, Have: 2019 S450
Hello all,
I hope everyone is doing great!
Does anyone know the WIS document numbers to show how to change the front upper and lower control arms? I am having a difficult time finding it because of how beautiful WIS's UI is. I apologize if this has been discussed in another thread before but I can't find anything online.
Thank you!
I hope everyone is doing great!
Does anyone know the WIS document numbers to show how to change the front upper and lower control arms? I am having a difficult time finding it because of how beautiful WIS's UI is. I apologize if this has been discussed in another thread before but I can't find anything online.
Thank you!
Thread Starter
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Joined: Sep 2022
Posts: 48
Likes: 22
2014 E350
Thank you guys for the tips!
'ar33.15-p-0160ewx' is the correct document number for a 2014 Mercedes-Benz E350 4-Matic in case anyone wants to know.
I've also attached the document below for those without WIS or for those who simply want to quickly access the file.
'ar33.15-p-0160ewx' is the correct document number for a 2014 Mercedes-Benz E350 4-Matic in case anyone wants to know.
I've also attached the document below for those without WIS or for those who simply want to quickly access the file.
Last edited by MB4429; Nov 17, 2023 at 12:42 PM.
Thread Starter
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2014 E350
Steering wander, steering wheel shimmy/front-end cabin vibration, bushings had some play after checking with a pry bar, and alignment is off(even after doing an alignment). Car is approaching 90k and I already did the tie rods and struts so I wanted to get these changed anyways.
Here the part numbers if you decide to change them:
Lower Control Arms(just order two of these as the parts are the same for both sides): A2123301911
Front LEFT Upper Control Arms: A2123303111
Front RIGHT Upper Control Arms: A2123303211
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From: Cincinnati
2010 E350 4Matic
Please report the difference in how it feels to drive after you had replaced them. I am replacing a known bad tie rod end and a stabilizer link that has a split boot. When I was under the car I found that I could easily wiggle control arm about an axis perpendicular to the axis of rotation but didn't know if that meant anything. Which is a long winded way of asking how can I tell if they are bad.
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2014 E350
Please report the difference in how it feels to drive after you had replaced them. I am replacing a known bad tie rod end and a stabilizer link that has a split boot. When I was under the car I found that I could easily wiggle control arm about an axis perpendicular to the axis of rotation but didn't know if that meant anything. Which is a long winded way of asking how can I tell if they are bad.
I’ll report it as soon as I get it done. Right now, I’m not sure when I’ll do it because of my classes.
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Thread Starter
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Posts: 48
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2014 E350
Please report the difference in how it feels to drive after you had replaced them. I am replacing a known bad tie rod end and a stabilizer link that has a split boot. When I was under the car I found that I could easily wiggle control arm about an axis perpendicular to the axis of rotation but didn't know if that meant anything. Which is a long winded way of asking how can I tell if they are bad.
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From: Jakarta-Indonesia
2014 - W212.065 - E400 ( M276.820, 3 liter Turbo) RWD not Hybrid
So what was the mileage on the arm ?
My friends RWD C200 W204, 70,000KM but like 12 years old, the bushing torn, the camber arm one.
Mine so far at 39,000KM but also a 2014 model, but RWD, is still OK.
However I have replaced the L shape ball joint ( RWD only has that L shape ball joint ), because it was not so "tight", no noise nothing.... at 25,000KM or so.
Also I have installed camber arm correction bolt due to value a bit off target, that was caused by simply 30ish laps at a track of 4KM long only or total 120KM...which torn
the boot of the sway bar link too ...LOL
Your arm A2123303111 is also the camber arm, which is always the one to suffer more.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/353222575731
My friends RWD C200 W204, 70,000KM but like 12 years old, the bushing torn, the camber arm one.
Mine so far at 39,000KM but also a 2014 model, but RWD, is still OK.
However I have replaced the L shape ball joint ( RWD only has that L shape ball joint ), because it was not so "tight", no noise nothing.... at 25,000KM or so.
Also I have installed camber arm correction bolt due to value a bit off target, that was caused by simply 30ish laps at a track of 4KM long only or total 120KM...which torn
the boot of the sway bar link too ...LOL
Your arm A2123303111 is also the camber arm, which is always the one to suffer more.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/353222575731
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2022
Posts: 48
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2014 E350
So what was the mileage on the arm ?
My friends RWD C200 W204, 70,000KM but like 12 years old, the bushing torn, the camber arm one.
Mine so far at 39,000KM but also a 2014 model, but RWD, is still OK.
However I have replaced the L shape ball joint ( RWD only has that L shape ball joint ), because it was not so "tight", no noise nothing.... at 25,000KM or so.
Also I have installed camber arm correction bolt due to value a bit off target, that was caused by simply 30ish laps at a track of 4KM long only or total 120KM...which torn
the boot of the sway bar link too ...LOL
Your arm A2123303111 is also the camber arm, which is always the one to suffer more.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/353222575731
My friends RWD C200 W204, 70,000KM but like 12 years old, the bushing torn, the camber arm one.
Mine so far at 39,000KM but also a 2014 model, but RWD, is still OK.
However I have replaced the L shape ball joint ( RWD only has that L shape ball joint ), because it was not so "tight", no noise nothing.... at 25,000KM or so.
Also I have installed camber arm correction bolt due to value a bit off target, that was caused by simply 30ish laps at a track of 4KM long only or total 120KM...which torn
the boot of the sway bar link too ...LOL
Your arm A2123303111 is also the camber arm, which is always the one to suffer more.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/353222575731
MBWorld Fanatic!
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From: Jakarta-Indonesia
2014 - W212.065 - E400 ( M276.820, 3 liter Turbo) RWD not Hybrid
My local roads can compete with NYC for pot holes + ruined rail track 
, not to mention 2 years old only PAID highway bridge joints able to bend wheel/rim.
I am in a more unfortunate city, road quality wise.
So you done like 75,000 miles or more already ?
, not to mention 2 years old only PAID highway bridge joints able to bend wheel/rim.I am in a more unfortunate city, road quality wise.
So you done like 75,000 miles or more already ?
Thread Starter
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2014 E350
Come do some driving on the Cross Island parkway and Van Wyck Expressway. We have some amazing potholes and plenty of construction zones to go around.
I always tell my friends, “be like the Van Wyck Expressway, always working on yourself”.
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From: WA State, USA
2014 Cummins, 2014 E250 Bluetec
Sounds like western WA (USA). Roads and bridges are horrible. Maybe not as bad as Prihadi but still bad. The organization that takes care of them are so far behind its not funny and they keep putting there funds in the general fund which means the sleezy polititions can spend it on other items. Not to mention the contractors that get all the contracts are super sleezy.
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Joined: Oct 2002
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From: Cincinnati
2010 E350 4Matic
What was worn on the control arms? Could you observe the wear prior to removal by inspection of the part? If so how? I am asking all of this because I have 150K miles on my car but the control arms seem tight but are easy to pivot at the bushing end.
Last edited by MBNUT1; Nov 24, 2023 at 11:53 AM.
Thread Starter
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2014 E350
Thanks for the follow-up report. Really happy to hear the improvement in driving experience. Would like to experience the same improvement but want to be sure that the parts need to be replaced.
What was worn on the control arms? Could you observe the wear prior to removal by inspection of the part? If so how? I am asking all of this because I have 150K miles on my car but the control arms seem tight but are easy to pivot at the bushing end.
What was worn on the control arms? Could you observe the wear prior to removal by inspection of the part? If so how? I am asking all of this because I have 150K miles on my car but the control arms seem tight but are easy to pivot at the bushing end.
If you do end up doing the job, make sure you get an alignment.
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From: Cincinnati
2010 E350 4Matic
I just pried the tension link bushing and found that the inner diameter of the rubber part slides on the metal part than it contacts and like you say it moves around pretty easy as compared the to other control arm bushing which it pretty stiff and tight. An FCP video indicated that it is a hydraulic filled bushing, If that is the case I think that what I am seeing is indicating that the bushing is shot because if the inner part of the rubber is sliding then the hydraulic fluid is no longer being sealed inside the bushing. They mention looking for staining due to fluid escaping but I didn't see any. The FCP video also said the tension (front) control arm is what fails first. Do you agree that my bushing is shot. The only reason I ask is that there doesn't appear to be any cracking of the bushing or staining.
Thread Starter
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2014 E350
I just pried the tension link bushing and found that the inner diameter of the rubber part slides on the metal part than it contacts and like you say it moves around pretty easy as compared the to other control arm bushing which it pretty stiff and tight. An FCP video indicated that it is a hydraulic filled bushing, If that is the case I think that what I am seeing is indicating that the bushing is shot because if the inner part of the rubber is sliding then the hydraulic fluid is no longer being sealed inside the bushing. They mention looking for staining due to fluid escaping but I didn't see any. The FCP video also said the tension (front) control arm is what fails first. Do you agree that my bushing is shot. The only reason I ask is that there doesn't appear to be any cracking of the bushing or staining.
From my research, there shouldn’t be much movement with the bushing. Looks can be very deceiving too.
I am curious. How many miles do you have on the car?
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2014 E350
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From: Cincinnati
2010 E350 4Matic
Awesome! Thank you so much! Mine is an 2010 E350 4Matic luxury model VIN = WDDHF8HBXAA115230. What is the correct suspension code for my car? Are 4maitc and RWD struts different?
If it isn't too much trouble (if it is don't bother) can you also provide the tension control arm and separate bushing part number. What tool did you use to separate the control arm from the knuckle? Considering just replacing the bushings as the ball joints seem tight. Don't know how realistic that will be. Probably not smart I know but I hate to throw away good parts. I'm weird that way.
Also thinking about disassembling the struts before I order the new ones to evaluate their condition. I know at 150K they in all likelihood need to be redone. I bought the car with 93K miles and it still seems to handle ok but I have experienced unwanted road imperfection transmission and vibrations. Hoping the control arms and new tie rod end will go a long ways to improving that. But if I need struts I want to do them now before I get it aligned.
If it isn't too much trouble (if it is don't bother) can you also provide the tension control arm and separate bushing part number. What tool did you use to separate the control arm from the knuckle? Considering just replacing the bushings as the ball joints seem tight. Don't know how realistic that will be. Probably not smart I know but I hate to throw away good parts. I'm weird that way.
Also thinking about disassembling the struts before I order the new ones to evaluate their condition. I know at 150K they in all likelihood need to be redone. I bought the car with 93K miles and it still seems to handle ok but I have experienced unwanted road imperfection transmission and vibrations. Hoping the control arms and new tie rod end will go a long ways to improving that. But if I need struts I want to do them now before I get it aligned.
Last edited by MBNUT1; Dec 1, 2023 at 11:53 AM.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2022
Posts: 48
Likes: 22
2014 E350
Awesome! Thank you so much! Mine is an 2010 E350 4Matic luxury model VIN = WDDHF8HBXAA115230. What is the correct suspension code for my car? Are 4maitc and RWD struts different?
If it isn't too much trouble (if it is don't bother) can you also provide the tension control arm and separate bushing part number. What tool did you use to separate the control arm from the knuckle? Considering just replacing the bushings as the ball joints seem tight. Don't know how realistic that will be. Probably not smart I know but I hate to throw away good parts. I'm weird that way.
Also thinking about disassembling the struts before I order the new ones to evaluate their condition. I know at 150K they in all likelihood need to be redone. I bought the car with 93K miles and it still seems to handle ok but I have experienced unwanted road imperfection transmission and vibrations. Hoping the control arms and new tie rod end will go a long ways to improving that. But if I need struts I want to do them now before I get it aligned.
If it isn't too much trouble (if it is don't bother) can you also provide the tension control arm and separate bushing part number. What tool did you use to separate the control arm from the knuckle? Considering just replacing the bushings as the ball joints seem tight. Don't know how realistic that will be. Probably not smart I know but I hate to throw away good parts. I'm weird that way.
Also thinking about disassembling the struts before I order the new ones to evaluate their condition. I know at 150K they in all likelihood need to be redone. I bought the car with 93K miles and it still seems to handle ok but I have experienced unwanted road imperfection transmission and vibrations. Hoping the control arms and new tie rod end will go a long ways to improving that. But if I need struts I want to do them now before I get it aligned.
Never mind, I copied and pasted the VIN incorrectly. Give me a few minutes!
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2022
Posts: 48
Likes: 22
2014 E350
Awesome! Thank you so much! Mine is an 2010 E350 4Matic luxury model VIN = WDDHF8HBXAA115230. What is the correct suspension code for my car? Are 4maitc and RWD struts different?
If it isn't too much trouble (if it is don't bother) can you also provide the tension control arm and separate bushing part number. What tool did you use to separate the control arm from the knuckle? Considering just replacing the bushings as the ball joints seem tight. Don't know how realistic that will be. Probably not smart I know but I hate to throw away good parts. I'm weird that way.
Also thinking about disassembling the struts before I order the new ones to evaluate their condition. I know at 150K they in all likelihood need to be redone. I bought the car with 93K miles and it still seems to handle ok but I have experienced unwanted road imperfection transmission and vibrations. Hoping the control arms and new tie rod end will go a long ways to improving that. But if I need struts I want to do them now before I get it aligned.
If it isn't too much trouble (if it is don't bother) can you also provide the tension control arm and separate bushing part number. What tool did you use to separate the control arm from the knuckle? Considering just replacing the bushings as the ball joints seem tight. Don't know how realistic that will be. Probably not smart I know but I hate to throw away good parts. I'm weird that way.
Also thinking about disassembling the struts before I order the new ones to evaluate their condition. I know at 150K they in all likelihood need to be redone. I bought the car with 93K miles and it still seems to handle ok but I have experienced unwanted road imperfection transmission and vibrations. Hoping the control arms and new tie rod end will go a long ways to improving that. But if I need struts I want to do them now before I get it aligned.
As for your suspension code, I couldn’t find anything through a VIN decoder. Maybe someone else might have better luck?
To separate the ball joints from the steering knuckle(in case you want to do it), I used a ball joint separator. It looks something like the GearWrench 3916D.
Here are some parts numbers!
STRUTS
FRONT STRUTS - A 212 323 58 00
REAR STRUTS - A 212 320 06 30
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...ein-2123235900
^Comes with both front and rear struts, bolts, and mounts. I used a similar kit for my car when I replaced my front struts.
CONTROL ARMS
LEFT UPPER(DOES NOT INCLUDE BEARING) - A 212 330 31 11
RIGHT UPPER(DOES NOT INCLUDE BEARING) - A 212 330 32 11
UPPER CONTROL ARM BEARINGS(same part for both sides) - A 212 333 03 14
LOWER CONTROL ARM(Same part for both sides of the car) - A 212 330 19 11
I bought my control arms from AutohausAZ(it was cheaper than FCP Euro lol) and it came with the bushings on the upper control arms. I think if you go to a MB parts center, they’ll probably give you the arm itself without the bushing judging from what WIS/EPC says.
Hope I answered all your questions!
