cold start rattle




When and if you are removing those injectors, may I suggest send it for testing and you get it cleaned and the piezo stack refresh while at it.
Read here : https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...intenance.html
I got the car all apart last night no major issues
this morning I started putting in some new parts
i took out my old cam adjuster- this is right intake.
when I went to install the new one, its like the dowel pins for cam and timing mark are in a different spot than the original I took out?
here is a pic. I used white paint to mark timing mark on back.
timing mark at the bottom you can see cam alignment dowels aren’t in the same location. Is this normal to have to move cam? Am I over thinking it?



Darn good for an Intel Core i7 laptop.
LOL




I got the car all apart last night no major issues
this morning I started putting in some new parts
i took out my old cam adjuster- this is right intake.
when I went to install the new one, its like the dowel pins for cam and timing mark are in a different spot than the original I took out?
here is a pic. I used white paint to mark timing mark on back.
timing mark at the bottom you can see cam alignment dowels aren’t in the same location. Is this normal to have to move cam? Am I over thinking it?
This VVT gear should last given good working oil pressure.




Timing is jumped when camshaft rotates forward. This is what good tensioners help prevent while VVT is unlocked.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Jul 20, 2024 at 05:53 PM.
I believe, when I disconnected everything to change intake cam adjuster, the exhaust cam moved so I was out of time.
I followed the WIS for checking thru the hall sensor holes and knew I was off- confirmed my exhaust cam moved. So I took it back apart rigged up some tools to lock my cams in time using the lines on the back. Bolted it together and checking thru the holes looks good to me. Even had my wife double check she agreed they look centered.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG




I got the car all apart last night no major issues
this morning I started putting in some new parts
i took out my old cam adjuster- this is right intake.
when I went to install the new one, its like the dowel pins for cam and timing mark are in a different spot than the original I took out?
here is a pic. I used white paint to mark timing mark on back.
timing mark at the bottom you can see cam alignment dowels aren’t in the same location. Is this normal to have to move cam? Am I over thinking it?
No you are not over thinking, you just don't seems to realize that this is VVT mechanism able to do approx 40 degrees variable degree.
Sold new the VVT would be in locked position, which if for my engine M276 3.0 Turbo and is only a few degrees different to M276.9 3.5NA.... mine is at +33 degrees
On M276.9 3.5NA the difference is only like 3 degrees to my engine.
So, what you have is a VVT not locking at its home base or zero position, and you are comparing it to a new one "parked" at its "zero" position.
==========
Now that you have access to your camshaft, do check your tone wheel position. It can spin out of position.
.
.
This tone wheel being OFF can also create the DTC for out of spec timing between CAM and CRANK.
.
Last edited by S-Prihadi; Jul 21, 2024 at 05:09 AM.
had a hold up waiting for the injector seals, other wise would have been done days ago.
only put about 4 miles on the car, but the noise seems to be gone. i can also say even though my car had the check valves/updated tensioners, they clearly had some wear on them. the new ones are much stiffer.
Last edited by Porno Joe; Jul 24, 2024 at 02:49 PM. Reason: english
about 4500 miles on the new adjuster. zero issues with the car. doesnt sound like a bucket of bolts when it starts anymore!
think im going to stick with 5k oil changes to hopefully help out some.




about 4500 miles on the new adjuster. zero issues with the car. doesnt sound like a bucket of bolts when it starts anymore!
think im going to stick with 5k oil changes to hopefully help out some.




There's a BIG difference in the way these "Approved oils" age and how rapidly they loose viscosity to become W30 lubricants. Your VVT gears depend on your oil selection.
Go ahead try a Motul 5W40 SP or better... You'll be pleased how well it endures extreme heat without oxidizing.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Feb 7, 2025 at 03:38 PM.
There's a BIG difference in the way these "Approved oils" age and how rapidly they loose viscosity to become W30 lubricants. Your VVT gears depend on your oil selection.
Go ahead try a Motul 5W40 SP or better... You'll be pleased how well it endures extreme heat without oxidizing.








New specs... are up to date: SP clean formulation
@JCM_MB + @pierrejoliat precisely understand what good lubricants are made of. Without their advice I would still be struggling with black sludge.

There are many good lubricants... not only Motul but it's really hard to match!!

Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Feb 7, 2025 at 04:06 PM.
New specs... are up to date: SP clean formulation
@JCM_MB + @pierrejoliat precisely understand what good lubricants are made of. Without their advice I would still be pulling my hair with black sludge.

There are many good lubricants... not only Motul but it's really hard to match!!

https://www.motul.com/en-US/products/17603
https://mbworld.org/forums/w212-amg/...ml#post9062102
https://mbworld.org/forums/w212-amg/...ml#post9062176
https://mbworld.org/forums/w212-amg/...ml#post9066852
https://mbworld.org/forums/w212-amg/...ml#post9066224
https://mbworld.org/forums/w212-amg/...ml#post9065572




It takes heat very well without sheering polymers back to base viscosity.
SN/SP are only the friction modifier package blended in the stock. Cleaner deposits for Lambda/Cats cleanliness.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Feb 7, 2025 at 05:14 PM.
too bad




