Porno Joe

picked up a new to us E350 wagon last month. has higher miles on it so Im looking to do whatever preventive type maintenance I can.

one thing I noticed is that we get the occasional rattle on startup, a few seconds then stops, I assume based on searching this is the timing chain rattling related to the tensioners.

question is- has anyone noticed the weight of the oil having an effect on this rattling? reason I ask is that I didn't notice any rattle when test driving the car, we got it home and didn't really drive it before I did some basic maintenance- plugs, oil, filter etc. I thought I was doing the car a favor putting in the slightly thicker oil- 5-40 vs the 0-40 given the miles on the engine, however im wondering if the thinner oil would flow better on cold startup and stop the noise?

Raj1471

What year wagon and how much mileage? I've got a 2011 S212 with @119k miles (bought CPO with 26k miles) and use Mobil 1 Euro 0W-40 exclusively with OCI of 5k and haven't got any cold start rattle. Live in NY so sub zero temps aren't a concern but stuck with the 0W-40 since that's what is recommended by MB.

juanmor40

As @Raj1471 mentioned, year and mileage information is needed to determine if engine is within the TSB range for chain tensioners, or check valve.

On my 2014 E350 with @95K+ miles, I moved from Mobil 1 0W40 at 80K miles to Motul 5W40 but keep in mind I am in Florida; therefore, no need for thinner oil when cold. The things that changed immediately after changing the oil brand/weight were:

1. No longer the burning smell in the garage after the "Italian tune-up"
2. No longer missing any oil for the 85K, 90K, or 95K services. Before I had to refill about 1 1/2 quart at the 8K mile mark after the service

I would get a short hose to use as a stethoscope, and try to pinpoint where the rattle is coming from. Places to focus on:

• Passenger side near the firewall --> High Pressure Fuel Pump
• Passenger side front timing cover. Check at the top (VVT gears), and below the solenoids (chain tensioner)
• Driver side front timing cover. Same as passenger side.

Porno Joe

It’s a 2014 with 157k on the odometer.

im fairly certain its the timing chain. Fits the description in the tsb exactly. Cold start 2-5 second noise then nothing

juanmor40

Timing chain? Or chain tensioner?

The TSB never mentioned the timing chain.

Usually timing chain outlast the vehicle unless it reaches high mileage. For a MB we are talking 200K+ miles or more

Porno Joe

yes I meant timing chain area ie tensioners.

S-Prihadi

If 157K miles and true historical maintenance or abuse by previous owner/s you do not know.... most likely it is the VVT sprocket, usually Bank 1 ( RIGHT SIDE ), intake VVT is the first one to go.
157K miles is a lot and if oil changes were always 10K miles by previous owners..... more risk.

Porno Joe

just an update- the car was maintained by MB up to at least the 130k mile mark( i have the carfax).

so in my internet reading one interesting item i found was that some MB engines didnt really like liquid moly oils. thats what i had been using in my BMW so it was what i put it. i decided before tearing the engine down to do a quick only change, i switched it out for 0-40 mobil 1 european formula and the noise seems to have gone away.

i may still look at the tensioner oil supply sometime here in the future, but im not as worried anymore.

juanmor40

My advice, use 5W40 approved, and if you are adventurous, read the "oil pump solenoids " thread in W212 AMG group

Porno Joe

Ok so I’m am trying to see if my engine falls into the range for the TSB.

The TSB I found was only saying it’s for 2013 models?

mine is 2014. I looked up my engine number and came up with 276952 30 725331. Does that seem correct for a 2014 E350?

Should I still consider the oil restrictors and new tensors or is my engine above the range?

juanmor40

Yours already have the check valve, and upgraded tensioners


Irrelevant at this point, but never the TSB mention years, only engine serial numbers.

These cars have subtle rattle when cold. 5 secs is nothing, and I would try raising the oil weight a bit, say 5W40 and I do MOTUL.

​​​​​​Have your recorded the start? Others can comment on actual sound

CaliBenzDriver

Definitely try the Motul Xcess Gen2. Its honest viscosity is a notch above others.

My VVT gears like it from low RPM when working pressure is increasing.

CaliBenzDriver

The "new updated" chain tensioners used in the MY'14 M276 engines are the exact same one sold as replacement. They need scheduled replacement to minimize lose of oil pressure. When limp the camshaft timing becomes uncontrolled. That directly impacts injection performance.

Porno Joe

The noise is almost completely random so pretty hard to try to video. Never first start of the day. From what I can tell-my wife is the main driver- noise only seems to come if car is driven long enough to get up to operating temp and then it sits for approx 45 min+.

Car def seems much quieter after switching to Mobil 1 European car formula FWIW.

JettaRed

iTrader: (1)

Here's the original TSB (Ver. 1) that included the M276 engines.

juanmor40

Please keep in mind there have been 13 revisions to the TSB. The latest one I have seen is version 14 (12-11-2019). Luckily, the numbers for the M276 are identical to ver 1. However, the numbers for the M278 kept changing over the years.

NOTE: there is another TSB where some M276/M278/157 where oil seeps at the back of the cylinder head. The OP engine is not in that range either.

JettaRed

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the updated docs. I missed the whole 2768 and 2769 listings. Need new glasses!

JettaRed

iTrader: (1)

Do these XENTRY TIPS documents imply that these are extended warranty items? Just wondering because my 2014 C350 falls into the group with the oil leaking on the rear of the cylinder head.

juanmor40

Honestly, I do not know.

JettaRed

iTrader: (1)

Then I shall do what I tell others to do. "Ask the dealer!"

Porno Joe

Ok I’m back.

well I ended up buying one of the Launch scan tools for the car, which showed me I have a code- P01177.


that is the bank 1 intake cam adjuster from what I can gather.

so questions. How difficult is this job? I’m a pretty good mechanic, having built my own engines, just never worked on this particular engine before.

I’ve been searching the forums, looks like I might need a special tool to remove the adjuster, and another to lock cams in time?

also, I know my engine is new enough it has updated tensions and check valves, but I also saw some discussion that tensions should maybe be replaced as a maintenance item? At 160k miles I’m thinking I’d change them too.

CaliBenzDriver

Replacing your VVT gear is a major work with engine still in place.

You'll need to pull out injectors, valve cover and HPFP then comes the question: how many VVT 1, 2, 4 counts? The whole bank1 or both intakes?

I think you can consider taking a shortcut. The lock pin is only necessary during low oil pressure conditions. The key issue is the HPFP and lobes current condition...

Jaybird123

Hey Joe,

I replaced the same intake adjuster in my m278 last summer. I’m not sure how much your job would differ from mine, but the actual adjuster swap isn’t terribly bad (and I’m not too seasoned in engine work). You are correct re tools required, will try to copy link for the kit I ordered off Amazon including both the cam lockdown and T socket required. You will need the proper sealant gasket for the cam plate, new plate bolts, etc. That HPFP was a REAL PITA if it’s positioned like the m278 btw. Any questions, feel free to ask!

https://a.co/d/4Qh7s2F

S-Prihadi

Dont forget to counterhold the camshaft rear azz with Torx T 60, aside from using that amazon tool tie-down set for the camshaft. Attached the PDF

Porno Joe

Thanks.

im parts shopping now, one question- do I need to buy the new bolt that holds adjuster to cam? I’m thinking it’s best to change it, just didn’t know if it comes with the adjuster?