MB OEM Battery









Someone will point out there are only one or two AGM battery manufacturers selling branded parts to all manufacturers.
So here Autocraft AGM battery is as good as the similar MB product.
My best advice in the battery Dept is to use a CTEK charger to float batteries - If Lead-acid batts are let go flat... high internal resistance develops - - > recycle time!
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Feb 14, 2024 at 02:57 PM.
Wipers (valeo OE sucks)
air filters
water pumps (i've been f**ked over by Vaico 2x in a row)
tensioners (febi bilstein defective tensioner)
cabin filters (the mann one is not as thick, never fits as well as the MB Mann)
batteries (the OE battery lasts 10 years, I get 3 years out of anything else)
SUSPENSION (the OE shocks are NOT the ones you get from Sachs, the W211 ones are a nightmare if you don't know to adjust the ride height)
Alpha European Autotech
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Chris Tran, Retired Alpha European Autotech Owner
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I had excellent experience with Varta, where Spanish made battery for our W163 would last 13 years.
Lately everybody is pushing for AGM batteries and those come with only with 3 years warranty.
In US, Costco sells H8 batteries for $165, what seems to be the best deal.
H6 flooded is $119.




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While you're at it, i'd also change out the small aux. battery in the driver's side of the dash. I was unable to find a local replacement, so I got one at the dealer for $60. This is probably neglected by most people until they see a symptom like key fob doesn't perform or a warning on the dash.
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Do I need to charge the battery before installation or just plug and play?




Measure the resting voltage... is it higher than 12.0V, yes?
Charge it outside the car using "AGM setting" unless impossible else regular mode and for people without charger in car port plug it in without charging to stress the car charging components .

Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Feb 19, 2024 at 09:43 PM.




Of course they are...
Some people want to belelieve it saves gas to run engines on low oil pressure.
Of course results are amazing.
I am amazed at my low cylinder blow-by and the well mannered power plant response.
Of course one tank at the time.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Feb 19, 2024 at 10:26 PM.








MB are built with 45+ computers from plethora of
3rd party
Very few of these specialty devices toletate well poor voltage glitches. Exceptions are ESP, ECU, TCU.
To reduce troubles you 1st need good electrical power : (ALT yo-yo, Strap).
So the most simple easy way is to start with a prestine battery after a whole car reboot. Yes, disconnect both batteries to reboot sleepless SAM Power Mgt computer.
Keep an eye on IC voltage display for deeps below 12.3V for extended drives: voltage tanks without warning before entering unregulated deep drain chaos - This is "drained by driving".




$119 for flooded H6 or $169 for AGM H8.
On other forum a member posted that his original Varta battery is still working after 17 (!) years and asking if its worth replacing. But that is on W211, who does NOT have smart charging.
no comments.


Someone will point out there are only one or two AGM battery manufacturers selling branded parts to all manufacturers.
So here Autocraft AGM battery is as good as the similar MB product.
My best advice in the battery Dept is to use a CTEK charger to float batteries - If Lead-acid batts are let go flat... high internal resistance develops - - > recycle time!
And yes, a battery sitting on the shelf for one or two months probably has most of a full charge, but after a year, it's going to lose some charge just sitting there. I still have the original AGM battery in my 2008, was made in Nov 2007 so I'm at about 16.25 years on mine. Getting weak though, it sat for 10 days once and I needed a light boost to get it going. Normally it's fine for 2-3 days. Guess I'll dump it before the next winter. I normally keep an eye on the voltage through the dash display.




1. Remove negative terminal.
2. Remove positive terminal and cover it with cloth.
3. Remove the 13 mm bolt for battery handle.
4. Replace the new one in reverse order.
Go inside the car start ignition and check the UB Voltage from dashboard so it is 12.1v.
I start the ignition so I heard tick sound then dashboard turned off.
Lock and unlock the car then start the car same behavior. But 3rd time the dashboard light up with several warning then fading and coming up.
So directly I unplug again the negative terminal.
Finally, I plug the negativé terminal but it settled deeply down. So I tried again and everything worked well with no errors.
Only trip and start reset to 0 and clock lost its time.
Thanks that the issue was negative pole wasn't installed properly and loose.








You can learn to associate the Amp number to assess battery current. Low current means battery nearly fully charged. That's what is good.
When the car enters the 12.7V voltage is when the ECU can go crazy below 12.0V after driving a while.




You can learn to associate the Amp number to assess battery current. Low current means battery nearly fully charged. That's what is good.
When the car enters the 12.7V voltage is when the ECU can go crazy below 12.0V after driving a while.
Thanks, I thought it could be something wrong as the Voltage playing between 12.7v to 14.9v when driving as my old car W220 it is always 14.2V.
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By the way my old AGM battery installed on my old car and the voltage always 14.2, does that will harm the battery?


