E-Class (W212) 2010 - 2016: E 350, E 550
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No Crank, No Start. Please help.

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Old Mar 26, 2024 | 01:00 PM
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2010 E350 Base 4door
No Crank, No Start. Please help.

Good afternoon and thank you in advance. 2010 E350 base model gasoline 4 door. Let me preface by admitting I may have done something stupid out of laziness. I attempted to "bump" the starter in order to loosen the crank bolt to replace a failed harmonic balancer. As soon as I turned the key I realized it doesn't "bump" so I turned it immediately back off. I removed the breaker bar and the socket from the crank bolt, which was not loosened. The car will not turn over at all now. All the inside stuff comes on. Non-starter noises from under hood are present . I checked the fuses in the driver's side engine compartment fuse box. I have read everything I can find on the forum and the web while away from the car. I haven't found a case of this happening to anyone else. Am I the only idiot? Lol. My hopes are that someone can tell me the first thing to look at when I get home. Is there a mega fuse of some type? I will be checking for voltage at the starter with a voltmeter. Prior to this the car was started several times and I parked it to begin the harmonic balancer replacement. Battery is fully charged and I have attempted to jump it. When the key is turned on the car will go into neutral and gear. The harmonic balancer has now been replaced and everything buttoned up. I also tried disconnecting the main battery for over 30 minutes. Thanks so much for any help.
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Old Mar 26, 2024 | 04:18 PM
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quiet starter

Originally Posted by Hjalbert3
Good afternoon and thank you in advance. 2010 E350 base model gasoline 4 door. Let me preface by admitting I may have done something stupid out of laziness. I attempted to "bump" the starter in order to loosen the crank bolt to replace a failed harmonic balancer. As soon as I turned the key I realized it doesn't "bump" so I turned it immediately back off. I removed the breaker bar and the socket from the crank bolt, which was not loosened. The car will not turn over at all now. All the inside stuff comes on. Non-starter noises from under hood are present . I checked the fuses in the driver's side engine compartment fuse box. I have read everything I can find on the forum and the web while away from the car. I haven't found a case of this happening to anyone else. Am I the only idiot? Lol. My hopes are that someone can tell me the first thing to look at when I get home. Is there a mega fuse of some type? I will be checking for voltage at the starter with a voltmeter. Prior to this the car was started several times and I parked it to begin the harmonic balancer replacement. Battery is fully charged and I have attempted to jump it. When the key is turned on the car will go into neutral and gear. The harmonic balancer has now been replaced and everything buttoned up. I also tried disconnecting the main battery for over 30 minutes. Thanks so much for any help.
Ouch, so much for a quick bump! Sorry to read that. The normal starter current surge was measured around 700A. Yours went high above that when crank would not move. Only limited by battery impedance and cables low-R. 1200A?

Do you have positive 12V Batt at starter ?

What does your scanner report ?

Read what SAM data say as the Pre-Fuse is SAM's own extension to control.
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Old Mar 26, 2024 | 08:39 PM
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Originally Posted by CaliBenzDriver
Ouch, so much for a quick bump! Sorry to read that. The normal starter current surge was measured around 700A. Yours went high above that when crank would not move. Only limited by battery impedance and cables low-R. 1200A?

Do you have positive 12V Batt at starter ?

What does your scanner report ?

Read what SAM data say as the Pre-Fuse is SAM's own extension to control.
I do not have a Mercedes specific scanner, and I haven't hooked up my blue tooth adapternto the obd2 port for fear of messing something else up. When the key is turned to the start position I have battery voltage to the #30 terminal on the starter relay, and the relay is itself is functioning. I am about to test the voltage at the starter. I hope it's just the starter giving up the ghost.
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Old Mar 26, 2024 | 09:13 PM
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I have +12v at the starter solenoid and when the key is turned to start have +12v on the braided copper wire going into the starter. Tapping on starter had no effect. Is it a safe bet that the starter is dead? Car has 168000 miles and AFIK starter is original to car. If so maybe this was a blessing in disguise.
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Old Mar 26, 2024 | 10:32 PM
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Fundamentals. It will help understand what to look for

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Old Mar 27, 2024 | 02:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Hjalbert3
I have +12v at the starter solenoid and when the key is turned to start have +12v on the braided copper wire going into the starter.
Tapping on starter had no effect. Is it a safe bet that the starter is dead?
Car has 168000 miles and AFIK starter is original to car. If so maybe this was a blessing in disguise.
it sure sounds like it.
Your starter has everything to spin but doesn't.
168kMi is very fair lifespan for a starter. Double check the starter brush set: brushes too short?
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Old Mar 27, 2024 | 07:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Hjalbert3
I do not have a Mercedes specific scanner...
Get one. (The price may have changed, but generally it sells for $150 to $160 on Amazon. Cheaper on AliExpress if you want to wait.)


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Old Mar 27, 2024 | 07:22 AM
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$98 and ships from the US.

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/32568...Cquery_from%3A
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Old Mar 27, 2024 | 09:30 AM
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Is this real or fake? Why is it half the price of Amazon?
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Old Mar 29, 2024 | 09:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Hjalbert3
I have +12v at the starter solenoid and when the key is turned to start have +12v on the braided copper wire going into the starter. Tapping on starter had no effect. Is it a safe bet that the starter is dead? Car has 168000 miles and AFIK starter is original to car. If so maybe this was a blessing in disguise.
it is very easy 100% to check if starter is good/bad.

The thick starter cable running straight from the battery ti the starter solenoid is always powered to +12V. The small wire also connected to the start solenoid is the solenoid coil power that gets +12V when you ask the car to start with the key or button.

For testing the starter you just take a test lead and connect the thick wire post to the small wire post on the start solenoid. This jumps +12V to the solenoid coil and if starter and solenoid are good the engine will crank. If not one if them is bad.
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Old Mar 29, 2024 | 11:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Zynthe
Is this real or fake? Why is it half the price of Amazon?
I assume it's real. Amazon is not always the cheapest for everything and AliExpress is usually the cheapest for Chinese goods. You can pay with PayPal or credit card, so you are protected.
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