I want to know if the chain tensioners are updated and check valves have been installed on my '13 W212.
Does anyone know the part number for the updated timing chain tensioner, along with the part number for the stock one that shouldn't be on the car? I'm guessing if the updated tensioners are on, then the check valves will be in as well.
I just don't want to have to remove the tensioners myself, as I am inexperienced with engine timing.
I plan on checking the tensioner part number in the car with a borescope to avoid having to take off the cover, so the info I get from here will be huge!
I want to know if the chain tensioners are updated and check valves have been installed on my '13 W212.
Does anyone know the part number for the updated timing chain tensioner, along with the part number for the stock one that shouldn't be on the car? I'm guessing if the updated tensioners are on, then the check valves will be in as well.
I just don't want to have to remove the tensioners myself, as I am inexperienced with engine timing.
I plan on checking the tensioner part number in the car with a borescope to avoid having to take off the cover, so the info I get from here will be huge!
Thank you for your help!
What is your current mileage?
The updated tensioners is compared to older M272 engine.
The current M276 tensioners is simply a new wear item.
There is no design change between current part and what is in your engine. The numbers have changed two dozen times but it is the same leaky tensioner run on low oil pressure.
The tensioner front bearing guide is made of rubbery plastic. It's both a seal and the shaft guide... it leaks pressure unable to stop camshaft from pulling on the chain.
FCP Euro dot com has a great kit with all part for that weekend job. Bank1 passenger side is the priority over the driver side (2 weekends job?).
The factory check valves are designed such that they can not be extracted. Not a problem so long you don't mess with them!
Only tensioners need replacement along with one-time aluminum screws. The internal spring is only finger strong. It needs good oil pressure to hold chain slack.
Don't get confused thinking you have the latest type with a check-valve so engine's ok for 300kMi. These amazing tensioners are one of the best things to replace every 50kMi.
The updated tensioners is compared to older M272 engine.
The current M276 tensioners is simply a new wear item.
There is no design change between current part and what is in your engine. The numbers have changed two dozen times but it is the same leaky tensioner run on low oil pressure.
The tensioner front bearing guide is made of rubbery plastic. It's both a seal and the shaft guide... it leaks pressure unable to stop camshaft from pulling on the chain.
FCP Euro dot com has a great kit with all part for that weekend job. Bank1 passenger side is the priority over the driver side (2 weekends job?).
The factory check valves are designed such that they can not be extracted. Not a problem so long you don't mess with them!
Only tensioners need replacement along with one-time aluminum screws. The internal spring is only finger strong. It needs good oil pressure to hold chain slack.
Don't get confused thinking you have the latest type with a check-valve so engine's ok for 300kMi. These amazing tensioners are one of the best things to replace every 50kMi.
Thank you for your response sir. It just touched 80k miles. I don't know whether it had been done or not, and I didn't know they were wear items.
I guess my main concern is the check valves, but I also didn't know they came with them from the factory. From the videos I see on YT, there's always an empty hole.
I don't have a rattle or anything crazy, I just wanted to be on the safer side.
So I don't need the check valve in at all, unless it develops a rattle?
Thank you for your response sir. It just touched 80k miles. I don't know whether it had been done or not, and I didn't know they were wear items.
I guess my main concern is the check valves, but I also didn't know they came with them from the factory. From the videos I see on YT, there's always an empty hole.
I don't have a rattle or anything crazy, I just wanted to be on the safer side.
So I don't need the check valve in at all, unless it develops a rattle?
To best way to be on the safe side at 80kMi is to install the FCP tensioner kit in combination with a good "MB Approved 5w40" oil.
You have 90% chance the non serviceable check-valve is already installed from factory. There are WIS documents out there with exact engine serial Numbers. Having check-valves helps weak tensioners hold tight a little better.
This engine rattles with or without check-valve when VVT-gear lock pin is worned out by reduced oil pressure at normal driving RPM. The WIS campaign about the "missing valve" is only a decoy as the real issue is something else.
Replacing your old leaky tensioners is a great service to keep the chain slack as tight as possible.
To best way to be on the safe side at 80kMi is to install the FCP tensioner kit in combination with a good "MB Approved 5w40" oil.
You have 90% chance the non serviceable check-valve is already installed from factory. There are WIS documents out there with exact engine serial Numbers. Having check-valves helps weak tensioners hold tight a little better.
This engine rattles with or without check-valve when VVT-gear lock pin is worned out by reduced oil pressure at normal driving RPM. The WIS campaign about the "missing valve" is only a decoy as the real issue is something else.
Replacing your old leaky tensioners is a great service to keep the chain slack as tight as possible.
The serial number if my engine is in the picture below:
and below is the excerpt from the bulletin:
Doesn't this mean I might not have the check valves from the factory? The reason I asked for the part numbers really is to find out which number the car came with to see if it matches the one thats still on there.
If it's the same one from the factory (original part number), I would know that the check valves most likely aren't installed. If it's a newer part number, then I'd know the check valves are in there.
Your engine number is 30 205440, that means you get the worst case scenario. No check valve and NO updated tensioner.
If your car is bought pre-owned, maybe YES or NOT... the previous owner have updated the tensioner and get the check valves.
Also some items get new P/N only in the paper print and not cast to the product.
Chain tensioner is a cast product. On paper/sticker the latest P/N get 2 extra digit , which is 64
Example is this M276.9 3.5NA part number latest one : https://www.mbpartsexpress.com/oem-p...r-276050260064
Your engine number is 30 205440, that means you get the worst case scenario. No check valve and NO updated tensioner.
If your car is bought pre-owned, maybe YES or NOT... the previous owner have updated the tensioner and get the check valves.
Also some items get new P/N only in the paper print and not cast to the product.
Chain tensioner is a cast product. On paper/sticker the latest P/N get 2 extra digit , which is 64
Example is this M276.9 3.5NA part number latest one : https://www.mbpartsexpress.com/oem-p...r-276050260064
Something I learnt about tensioner, but not M276 type. It is the M271 type.
For learning sake............. because WIS wrote once this tensioner is UN-LOCKED, it should never be used again.
Attached WIS for chain tensioner removal-install of both engines.......
See how complicated on M271.8 to ACTIVATE the chain tensioner.
.
The trick to reset M271.8 timing chain tensioner. So no need to buy new one if it is still low mileage. Say under 30,000KM.
I want to know if the chain tensioners are updated and check valves have been installed on my '13 W212.
Does anyone know the part number for the updated timing chain tensioner, along with the part number for the stock one that shouldn't be on the car? I'm guessing if the updated tensioners are on, then the check valves will be in as well.
I just don't want to have to remove the tensioners myself, as I am inexperienced with engine timing.
I plan on checking the tensioner part number in the car with a borescope to avoid having to take off the cover, so the info I get from here will be huge!
Thank you for your help!
The tensioner front bearing guide is made of rubbery plastic. It's both a seal and the shaft guide... it leaks pressure unable to stop camshaft from pulling on the chain.
FCP Euro dot com has a great kit with all part for that weekend job. Bank1 passenger side is the priority over the driver side (2 weekends job?).
The factory check valves are designed such that they can not be extracted. Not a problem so long you don't mess with them!
The tensioner front bearing guide is made of rubbery plastic. It's both a seal and the shaft guide... it leaks pressure unable to stop camshaft from pulling on the chain.
FCP Euro dot com has a great kit with all part for that weekend job. Bank1 passenger side is the priority over the driver side (2 weekends job?).
The factory check valves are designed such that they can not be extracted. Not a problem so long you don't mess with them!
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