Wyowolf

My son's car has been getting this code. I hooked up my code reader and. took pics of all the codes.
When I run the live data it's showing all 4 cams in spec? not sure what im not seeing here.
2015 e350

also how do I clear the intake blocked ice code? ive tried and it keeps coming back

thank you very much

juanmor40

Did you already try deleting ALL codes? Turn off the car, cluster OFF, start the vehicle, and rescan to see which codes are back.

I would swap the Intake Camshaft Position Sensor between banks 1 and 2. Rescan, if the message switches banks, you know the sensor is toasted.

When you are disconnecting the position sensors -> CHECK for oil in the connectors.

Wyowolf

yes a couple times. ok thank you I will do that.
sorry forgot I did replace the sensor already

CaliBenzDriver

We need to read full report to see the extent of this disruption on CAN-C VIP's. Now you're only showing a 3x modules. All modules interact and disfunction together.

It looks very much like a soft-crash... could be "oil-in-harness" or perhaps old undersized relays (30g found under 8.5VDC)

You can tell the ECU is crazy calling a CURRENT fault on the camshaft position you are showing to be perfect.
- Were the old CPS failed before replacement ?
- What the current engine mileage ?
- Any rattling involved (cam wheel) ?

Right now you could:

• reboot the chassis (batts out 10mn)
• clear faults
• rescan
• drive 25mph roads
• rescan
• compare results

I would keep out of highspeed roadways for safety against limp-modes or until you get this all sorted out.

Wyowolf

thank you!
not sure how I can read more modules?
I got the code before and replaced it but it didnt change, I didnt notice any excessive oil on the connection.
how do I reboot the chassis?
battery out for ten min? correct ? ok ill have him do that.
I really dont understand the ice faults... ive tried to clear them several times... pretty sure there is no ice there..

No rattling , but there is a leak in the AOS or whatever its called near the rear of the engine.
I think 109kish
it does take longer to start from cranking, maybe 1 full second or so.

other than that its been a great running car, no real issues before this. bought it I think in 2019?

CaliBenzDriver

49/11/33...
your chassis runs with 49 computers out of which 11 of them report 33 faults. Super bad ones can also be missing silent units.

We want to see the complete set or at least all 11 faulty units.

Reboot chassis by disconnecting BOTH batteries for 10mn (without shorting the leads!).

Right now you could:

• reboot the chassis (batts out 10mn)
• clear faults
• rescan
• drive 25mph roads
• rescan
• compare results

Wyowolf

here is what I have

juanmor40

I would check the health of the battery. Scan says 8.5V -> dead battery.

Once properly charged, or best NEW, delete and rescan. Those should NOT be back.

Too many communication errors- wonder if there is poor contact on the CAN connectors, or some central module, Gateway?

With those voltage levels, the computers cannot work reliably

CaliBenzDriver

4x camshafts position checks

What happens after you clear current faults?
Are you able to shade most faults?

The initial report shows a low voltage event... we'd like to identify

Wyowolf

bought a new battery today and will replace and see how that works, good idea, I should have thought of that myself...

Wyowolf

ive tried to clear them and they won't.
I did buy a new battery will charge and replace and see what happens after that

note, I just checked I replaced it 4/22 so its not very old at all... it still could be bad I supposed... I did disconnect both batteries

CaliBenzDriver

Lead-acid batteries get sulfated as soon as they get drained flat... even a fresh battery can be short lived.

I am surprised the STORED codes will not clear...

There a chance your ECU received "oil-in-harness" - Have a look at ECU connectors while your battery is disconnected.

juanmor40

On the intake ice code, I would disconnect the sensor, scan it again and see if it changes to open circuit. If the code remains, either a dead sensor or @CaliBenzDriver suggested there may be a poor connection to the ECU

You can also try deleting while disconnected, reconnect, rescan

CaliBenzDriver

Juan, I think the ICED THROTTLE fault is from when the ECU went wild on 8.5Volts.

The question is what produced all that chaos...
-- Jump-started flat battery (user error!)
-- Genuine ECU issue (CPS... Oil-In-Harness...)
-- Combination of jump starting with pre-existing issues


Some of these cars eat batteries because of unstable CAN-B modules... thenk a CTEK float charger is a great workaround + bi-monthly reboots to sanitize sleepless CGW.


​​​​​​We want to understand what helped this chassis become unreliable.

Wyowolf

never been jumped since ive owned it roughly 5 years.
I left everything disconnected overnight and will retry in the morning.
which sensor is for the ice fault?

juanmor40

Read document for M276. The intake temperature sensor is B17/1 . Check legend anyways


https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...ml#post8114371

CaliBenzDriver

KONIGSTIGER
was da man!!

Baltistyle

I’ve not seen him around. What’s the word? Did he move to a new platform?

JettaRed

iTrader: (1)

Does XTOOL use the same software file that other brands use? I know there are some brands that use the same core vehicle file. The XTOOL is using version V22.10. I know my LAUNCH Creader Elite 2.0 BENZ recently updated to V50.26.

Wyowolf

I have no idea what it uses. it will send reports in PDF to my email I know that.

JettaRed

iTrader: (1)

Does your report contain information like this at the beginning?