Allright, finally done.
Safer travel long distance ( rural roads ) at night.

Good thing I have old archive to compare the MB original High Beam of 641 ILS option at the same location with now Lazer's Linear 18 Elite assisting MB original High Beam.




The 5000K LED BAR is this one : https://www.lazerlamps.com/linear-18-elite.html


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To interface any extra lights to a W212 be it facelift 2014 and up or non-facelift, more so facelift , you will need special interface unit.
Like this : https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...a-can-bus.html

The special mounting bracket to be made for this LED BAR, I shared here : https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...ion-plate.html


I been dissapointed with ILS high beam coverage and power. Basically it is a Low Beam tilted by a motor only, no extra LED MODULES or whatsoever.
The color temperature is also too high at what I think 6,500K and a poor CRI too. Today's LED can achieve CRI 90-95 ( still a little expensive) , halogen/incandescent light is a CRI 100, the reference.
MB's 641 LED, I bet CRI is no better than 70, which is poor. Probably 2012 design, hence LED were generally poor with CRI back then unless custom order and extra $$ and you loose lumens/brightness too while at it.
CRI = Color Rendering Index https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/High-CRI_LED_lighting
CRI makes a lot of difference when on rural roads where roads has no paint marker to see edges and I have to rely on "red" color of the dirt/soil and vegitation green.
Mood is upsetting for me with poor CRI, worst offender is the Sodium Halide or any HID, I hate the ambience of such light so much !!!


Low CRI vs Higher CRI LED light

Better color rendering. Decently high CRI




This one is surely a lower CRI


Below is another lower CRI unit




8 Years ago or 2013 when high CRI video LED Lights cost a bomb !! If you do indoor or underwater video color grading/correction, you know what I mean.
Cheap LED Lights: What is CRI and does it matter?


By 2017


In Europe this Lazer Elite 18 light is legal.UNECE approved Reg 112 (Class B Driving Light) for on-road high beam function
In USA probably NOT unless for off road.
In my country.... hhhmmm NOTHING IS ILLEGAL

 

MB ILS:
"I've been dissapointed with ILS high beam coverage and power.
Basically it is a Low Beam tilted by a motor only, no extra LED MODULES or whatsoever."
very true!

This LED bar has nice light rendition with serious output for safer driving.

The brightness definitely goes missing as soon as you turn it off... everything goes dark until the eyes have a chance to adapt.

So glad you have excellent power output to feed all these loads instead of former yoyo.

I have the standard static non-smart LED HL. The output is ridiculously high so I can clearly see 3.5 blocks ahead in low beams. What funny is at night everyone stays behind me on the highway to watch all the markings glow.

 

I think because my headlight is the intelligent one, its very very conservative on the horizon height and beam spread. Can't adjust manually at all, unlike the older one with height adjustment.
Its intelligent-ness is useless in my kind of roads but probably be decent in a proper highway setting as demonstrated by owners of ILS 640/641 in USA who suddenly have a new toy when they
unlock the European feature... LOL.

I don't like auto high beam, I want total manual control.
The cornering light of this ILS is decent, but not for higher speed I do.
The brigthness at high beam at a distance and width of the beam ... is poor this ILS. The low beam I do not complain.

See how lame the high beam is. In Bali.







There is not enough lumens thrown at the distance since 1 headlight only is a 35 watts total, so the high beam side perhaps 20W or so.



Since this is a curving to the left the road .... at that far distance, if the light is brighter I can anticipate earlier any danger lies ahead.
If in some parts of USA big animals crossing the road is a risk, in my country it will be people and people on a motorbike crossing illegally as if a pedestrian.
Some people maybe pushing food carts or some sort of slow carts crossing the road.

 

I've had folks get killed in car wrecks in my family.

I've learned the public roads are full of idiots and cemeteries are full of people who were right but payed for someone else's mistake.

I definitely take it easy on dark roads when safety odds are against speeding.

 

Yes, I am now older and my eyes are no more High Dynamic Range as when I was 40 years old.....
So need more light to compensate for my aging "sensor" . If my eye is a 50mm lens on a full frame camera, it used to be F1.2 prime lens now its an F4 dark cheapo one.
My right eye is the worst. Too much using Gen3 night vision the green starlight ones for night yachting and too much old fashion camcorder since the 90s using thoes peek thru eye viewer...its low light sensitibity is now down by easy 35%.
Cylinder too now my right eye. The price of aging
I don't speed as much as I used too in the dark, no more.... its the vision issue.

 

I was doing LED BAR beam trajectory calculation based on nice near 100 KM test drive last nite. This is to also stress test the engine.
Its a new highway I never tried, kinda poor road joints quality , but okey if upto 120KM/H at its worst areas, some joints is OK to do up to 180 KM/H.
This is where the Bilstein B4 front and B6 rear shine on this yoyo-jumping.jack kind of PAID HIGHWAY
Nice cops in a stationary patrol car, I passed them by at 170KM/h ( 105 MPH ) and they are cool, ignore my old-man car with no loud exhaust and I was going straight and not zig zag like a maniac.
This is what I love about Indonesian traffic cops, they are very understanding

===========================


Fine tuning the beam height..........

Car on level 1 lock, Quick Jack. Approx 20 CM jacked-up height.







First installed, I set it this high :
Note : LED BAR on a Quick Jack level 1 is now at 52cm above floor. On the car itself if on the ground, it is 32cm from the floor. So 20cm worth or rise by Quick Jack.
All values are in meters or centimeters.

Low Beam





==============

High beam







I manual set my pocket camera exposure to see the brightest region.

Was this high...
Its difficult to take photo of beam spread and different level brightness to represent what the eye can see. Below brighest zone is at zero to 10 cm above horizon ( 52cm black line ) as per my eye.



I set lower now. The brightest zone is now at +5cm to -5cm from black line 52cm LED bar zero horizon.



I was calculating for 200 meters distance, I must have the brightest zone be at height coverage of approx 3+ meters above a flat ground. The perimeter beam will be higher than this.


The now lowered beam overall is approx at the red zone/box and the brightest zone is the blue zone I marked. Its top side perimeter beam is about 5-6 degrees above zero horizon of the LED Bar.
The 9 degree was approx where it was initially set at.

I target 200 meters for braking from 100 MPH + 1 second response delay on my part and 25% extra safety on top of all combined distances.

2015 Car & Driver test was on a 4 matic E400 and only 70MPH, not up to 100 MPH.


Good thing I have the green screen kit ... ha ha ha, its for video works.
I do not know where my Lux meter is , I have one . I wanted to measure properly the entire beam region of the Elite 18 actually.
Friends keep borrowing my instruments and I sometime forgot about it for a year or two, until I need to use it.

=============================

Last nite test, its more of engine stress test but LED BAR too while at it.


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Shall update when I have new video footage to compare with last nite test drive vs today's lowered level. In a few days..... hopefully.

 

The height adjustment result, is the LEFT PICTURE.














Top picture is the adjusted height


Well, its not bad. I think if I can raise 1.5 to 2cm at 2 meters from current adjusted value, it can be better.

=====================================

For now : Objective achieved, 200ish meters distance object to be visible and beam not too high
Naked eye is much better than what my camera can capture.









Note : The GPS module on the dashcam is very slow updated into the video data stream , so it is not good for positioning if car is moving above 30KM/H. If stationary, it is very good.

 

...

 

The brightness is poor for MB Dynamic ILS LED. 35 watts x 2 from a old gen LED module is too lame.
The setting MB Indonesia did for my lights is polite, very polite I agree. So I just keep it that way.

The LED bar is more for long distance driving and a RUDE version of me

Next time in real life you should compare this Lazer 18 Elite with your ILS LED headlight when you have the chance.
The dashcam can't capture 100% of what is going on.

 

So, finally I get to use my LED BAR on a real long drive at night on a zero light paid highway.

While the camera ( dash-cam ) can't really show how long distance illuminating the light is, it is so much safer now for me to scan far away distance.


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If roads in Sweden. Same Elite 18 LED BAR.


This Lazer light is the most expensive investment per 1 second of use... add-on on my car, but it is so worth it.
Since installation I have only operate it probably less than 180 seconds total, to today.

 

No deer escapes the GAZE of S-Prihadi!!