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So it was a false positive. CEL and multiple misfires returned. cylinder #1, 3, and 5 now. There's low idle and car doesn't seem to want to accelerate from stop. Time to check the fuel injectors? or maybe oxygen sensors?
All ignition coils and spark plugs are new btw.
Swap them magnets first. Start with intake or exhaust camshaft first and then the other one to see if the problem moves to the other bank.
So far the DTCs are P0301 303 305 with my generic ODB scanner.
is Xentry a Mercedes specific scanner? Never heard of it before.
I haven't done compression, you posted a kit from Amazon earlier. do you recommend that or just get the Xentry scanner? Thanks for the help!
So, misfires in all cylinders in the bank 1.
Some general “rules”:
- All three cylinders don’t lose compression suddenly at the same time.
- All spark plugs in the three cylinders do not fail at the same time.
- All fuel injectors in the three cylinders do not fail at the same time.
- All other ignition components on those cylinders do not fail at the same time.
So what do then cylinders have in common?
- Fuel injection yes, but the same fuel pump supply also the other bank cylinders that do not have problem.
- Cam shafts are the common parts that all these three cylinders use. It is most likely failure of a component of the VVT system. Could also be just a failure of the chain tensioner.
But the easiest thing to do and rule out at this point is to swap those magnets and see if the problem follows to the other bank.
And yes, Xentry is the tool to have. I joined the Ninja club and it is golden.
oh no. I think i got bigger issues... got the Launch scanner and seeing this DTC 0521 "The charge movement flap (cylinder bank 1) has a malfunction". Quick search points to needing a intake manifold replacement!!! yikes!
oh no. I think i got bigger issues... got the Launch scanner and seeing this DTC 0521 "The charge movement flap (cylinder bank 1) has a malfunction". Quick search points to needing a intake manifold replacement!!! yikes!
Also, I DON'T HAVE these DTCs.. P2004 and P2006 that other threads indicate broken lever on the manifold. Could something else give me that DTC 0521 "The charge movement flap (cylinder bank 1) has a malfunction".
If your intake levers are broke, just replace the whole thing. Don't repeat the same mistake I did. There's a lot of points can fail in that damn intake manifold. Just for peace of mind. Plastics and seals so age...
Btw, when I got that intake code, i did not have misfiring issues....
One more thing, can you check the Long Term Fuel Trim (LTFT) figures on your car? I want to compare with mine (I have issues with that for a while)
If your intake levers are broke, just replace the whole thing. Don't repeat the same mistake I did. There's a lot of points can fail in that damn intake manifold. Just for peace of mind. Plastics and seals so age...
Btw, when I got that intake code, i did not have misfiring issues....
One more thing, can you check the Long Term Fuel Trim (LTFT) figures on your car? I want to compare with mine (I have issues with that for a while)
Yea I'm dreading having to replace the intake manifold. Hoping my levers are not broken and it's something else.
Did you have P2004 and P2006 codes? Or just what i haveDTC 0521 "The charge movement flap (cylinder bank 1) has a malfunction"
How do I check the Long Term Fuel Trim (LTFT)? Can i do it with the Launch scanner?
Yea I'm dreading having to replace the intake manifold. Hoping my levers are not broken and it's something else.
Did you have P2004 and P2006 codes? Or just what i haveDTC 0521 "The charge movement flap (cylinder bank 1) has a malfunction"
How do I check the Long Term Fuel Trim (LTFT)? Can i do it with the Launch scanner?
I have the 0521, oddly this was not detected on launch until a shop check using xentry. (maybe coincidentally the lever just broke very recently) red one is the broken lever, yellow one seals are started to failing. a lot of oily dusts there i also use launch, you can see fuel trims number on obd2 mode
Initially I only replaced the parts that broke, but a month later I purchase the whole intake assembly (pierburg).
When replacing or repairing the intake make sure you also change the manifold gaskets and injector seals
I have the 0521, oddly this was not detected on launch until a shop check using xentry. (maybe coincidentally the lever just broke very recently) red one is the broken lever, yellow one seals are started to failing. a lot of oily dusts there i also use launch, you can see fuel trims number on obd2 mode
initially I only replaced the parts that broke, but a month later I purchase the whole intake assembly (pierburg).
When replacing or repairing the intake make sure you also change the manifold gaskets and injector seals
What happen to the repair kit? Did it not work?
Anyway I can visually see if my levers are broken without making the intake manifold out?
if your engine uses a vacuum pump then double check its small check-valve is not wasted. (A $5 part instead complete intake plenum)
so my vacuum pump don't have the same kind of valve. mine looks like this and it doesn't go anywhere. there's a small hose that just cap it off after about an inch. Does it still apply?
Ok so they don't recommend doing the repair kit. If you're taking the time and effort to remove intake manifold, might as well replace the entire unit. Man, I've been dealing with two issues at the moment. My other car BMW X5 got problems too. And just today, my garage door spring broke.. Problems comes in 3s.. like they say. LOL
Your vacuum port #2 is metal... the later model good upgraded to plastic .
The tiny check-valve uses a membrane and that has a limited life being in a hot oil bath. Test it to see it can hold vacuum.
No vacuum means no power available to actuate intake flaps. (1: to brake booster) - 2: to vacuum accessories
Do you have good vacuum to accessories diaphragm?
Use your scanner to command vacum ports.... use 12VDC if you have to (without computer in circuit).
If the small check valve failure has materialized... don't replace the pump, simply add one inline. $5!
The big garage-door spring benefits from being lubed because the coil is so tigh it develops friction winding down and unwinding up... lithium grease.
Dual springs setup better than single one!
🤞
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Oct 13, 2024 at 02:45 PM.
Your vacuum port #2 is metal... the later model good upgraded to plastic .
The tiny check-valve uses a membrane and that has a limited life being in a hot oil bath. Test it to see it can hold vacuum.
No vacuum means no power available to actuate intake flaps. (1: to brake booster) - 2: to vacuum accessories
Do you have good vacuum to accessories diaphragm?
Use your scanner to command vacum ports.... use 12VDC if you have to (without computer in circuit).
If the small check valve failure has materialized... don't replace the pump, simply add one inline. $5!
The big garage-door spring benefits from being lubed because the coil develops friction winding and unwinding... lithium grease.
Dual springs setup better than single one!
🤞
My vacuum pump looks like this. the small valve doesn't connect to anything. Can you explain how to test the vacuum like for dummies book? Haha.
Yea, I'm having the garage repair install two springs while he's working on it. thanks for the tip on on lithium grease!!
Last edited by GOPHIMBO; Oct 13, 2024 at 01:16 PM.
M276 has a similar vacuum pp setup (minus the air-injection pump into exhaust).
I am not entirely familiar with your M272 setup...
having said that, the vacuum pp small outlet should be connected and must have a working check-valve in-line as mentioned earlier (don't replace whole pump for $5 rubber piece!).
This is aiming towards... high engine blow-by neagating what vacuum the pump is trying to build.
MS! is pointing at the fact drafty engines have nearly no crackcase vacuum and that impacts the pump output.
The vac. pumps down x-PSI below the crankcase pressure present at the pump exhaust port.
Case in point... the brakes improve when the piston rings are well sealed. ie. more vacuum is noticed by brake vacuum booster. Conversly drafty engines have a hard brake pedal!
When drafty crankcase shows some positive pressure, vaccuum is reduced by the difference above zero PSI.
Reduced crankcase pressure is achieved with lower blow-by production and that can be achieved when dirty rings get unstuck by better oiling.
+++ CIRCLING AROUND...
Your current issue has a pretty good chance to be caused by poor oiling and the many issues it brings in the name of "saving gas".
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Oct 13, 2024 at 03:55 PM.
Reason: added MS. link to Vpp
Your vacuum port #2 is metal... the later model good upgraded to plastic .
The tiny check-valve uses a membrane and that has a limited life being in a hot oil bath. Test it to see it can hold vacuum.
No vacuum means no power available to actuate intake flaps. (1: to brake booster) - 2: to vacuum accessories
Do you have good vacuum to accessories diaphragm?
Use your scanner to command vacum ports.... use 12VDC if you have to (without computer in circuit).
If the small check valve failure has materialized... don't replace the pump, simply add one inline. $5!
The big garage-door spring benefits from being lubed because the coil is so tigh it develops friction winding down and unwinding up... lithium grease.
Dual springs setup better than single one!
🤞
Mine has oil squirting from the small port #2, the vacuum still somewhat worked (the intake manifold flap still actuates). Can I add the check valve inline if mine squirting oils?
@S-Prihadi is this small check valve available in our local market 😅
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