I suspected some of the roads on this trip will be narrow, but I never expected 200cm ( 6.5 feet ) only per lane.







The so called "big" common SUV in my country.....


So W212 is as wide as Toyota Fortuner and a bit longer A W212 is 4.87 meters vs 4.79 meters for Toyota Fortuner.


A Suzuki mini pick up


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I was having fun on some village roads, while testing my new AUX lights and I realized how small the road is, some area of the trip.

Below is a Toyota Fortuner on the said road, in front of me




The small pick-up in front of this Toyota Fortuner SUV is a Suzuki Carry pick up with 1.56 meters wide body. Its the same as below :



So this road is probably no more than 200 CM ( 6.5 feet ) , per lane.
I was having trouble avoiding the side grass or pebbles, as they are some more than 10cm lower than the tarmac and my under carriage will get whacked.

I was scouting this area for its fun road with lots of challenging corners to test my Auxillary lights and have a fun drive.
Its via Google Map streetview. I know some is narrow, but dang some is VERY narrow lane.

The trip is South heading in daylight and I will go back home North heading at 6:30 PM so that it will be dark.


Heading there I was being polite and would want to give way due to my car being wider, when and if I see a place I can give way......

I know the opposing black car is already fearful that I will eat into his lane, hence he gave me the high beam light.
This is a tea plantation, this road is even narrower than 200 cm, it seems like 180cm ( 5.9 feet ) per lane.

The car width, excluding side mirrors. Silver is oldie 2015 Toyota Avanza and Blackie is Suzuki APV


.
I already seen possible clearance on the left, below, I marked in green, where I can have my left tires be on those pebbles.... so I thought




With confidence I rest my left wheel on the pebbles rather fast...... and WTF, the height difference between the tarmac and the pebbles is actually deeper than my ground clearance height !!!
I got visually deceived....duggghh !!! It does not look deep at all. I thought 5CM at best.





Adding insult to injury, the second sound or bump is this little depression, in red color





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At the least I got some fun time with the corners and the new AUX light test ................



.

Actually this road if without opposing traffic as in a car, and if no humans crossing the road on blind corners.... is a great road to drive, crazy nice corners.

 

Surya, your new headlights are absolutely spectacular - Now you have daylight plus the coverage that stock was missing. 🤗

I can imagine how enjoyable it is driving your TT up the mountain roads without the heater offsetting your smooth A/C.

Makes for a really coool video & soundtrack.

 

Ouch, I hope your car is OK.... that sounds hurts mine too

Why the fortuner turn on the hazards tho.... just regular lights should be OK.

btw, that condition should be the perfect use of ILS.... or even auto hi beam, pitch black, no other lights.... but wow the high beam is crazy hahahah

 

So, the damage is minor........ as expected.

First as usual, the steel protection plate for under the engine is heaven sent.


The white painted zone are battle wound from the past and I use paint pen to add new layer, thus if it get whacked there again, I would know.


I am too lazy to do the white paint pen, the current battle damage I simply use silver paint

This plate is galvanized by MB.



The hairy sound shield a bit torn.
This LEFT side one is actually new in 2021 when it got torn in Bali.


.


I did not do any fix for this, leave it be. It wont tear even at high speed from wind.

.





This damage area is where the ALU stiffener bar is at....so the ALU bar took the impact and not the car metal under body.




I have torn a tiny bit the RIGHT side hairy sound shield too, same region. See the ALU tape I use as cover

Above is simply for entering a hair saloon, where the city government has just raise the curb height and it messes with sloping entry pathway.



Was safe for my car





The new curb, simply that height increase is already a hairy sound shield killer. This is because my rear tire would have landed on tarmac while mid body
of the car is still at the red dotted line, that tall "ridge".and the kissing happen.
In Bali there are many such similar curb design , a bit taller in fact, where I can't take my W212 .




.
The rear suspension spring arm got scratch.......... the side at the subframe. Bushing is OK.


The cosmetic plastic cover for spring arm tiny bit scratch too.... no worry.




Black Matte paint to the rescue



DONE.............. I only want rust protection, that is all.





This is at the side of the spare wheel well ............. no worry.




That is all the minor damage...........

 

The AUX extra lights is not bad when Extra Low Beam and Wide Angle(Ditch) in use with stock Low beam, they work as intended and now I can see wet tarmac surface, which is important for me.
Usually wet tarmac get so shiny in the rain and if light is not powerful, we only see black tarmac and not any better visual clarity on if the surface has pot holes from a decent distance.

The yellow light is not powerful enough for thick fog and it need to be 2 sets ( total 4 lights ) if possible for wider beam angle, but I wont add anymore.

The ILS will not work in such slow speed scenario, I mean the auto high beam ILS.
There are many parameters to first comply, before the famous auto high beam ILS and its zoning yada yada will activate...which is useless for me. It is lame and not bright.

The cornering lights works, but too lame in terms of its brightness for this mountain roads.
The active portion of the low beam ( outer LED module ) also can move L/R about 10 degrees I think, but it move so very little and it is for a slow curving road at decent speed and not horse shoe corners like on my video.

The Lazer Elite 18 is awesome as high beam and if used 5 meters or more away the target from the car, the further the better as the beam spread gets bigger..... but,
if I have a true off road ditch light set shooting 90 degrees Left and Right from car hood or roof ( best ) or bumper, that will be really awesome.


This horse shoe corner


.





The video is 2:32 to 2:45 for this corner
at 2:40 is the apex of the corner, see the left side has no proper light illumination, even with cornering light already active.





Here is another video of this corner, going down in daylight, going up in the dark the same as per the first video but with original audio.
The night footage, hear my tire screeching a bit on this wet tarmac which is a high degree slope up and the apex is very tight.
Thanks to my Quaife ATB differentials its very grip-y for BOTH wheels and I kept the car on the LEFT at all times to be "polite".
If I were using open DIFF, I would have to use opposing traffic lane as to not turn too tight while climbing.

You Tube

.

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Forget the ILS 641 headlights, its not for un-kind roads
Get the Lazer Elite 18 ( basic model ) if you want proper high beam.
It is for now, the world's best 53CM super slim LED BAR..... but you need special module from Sweden to eavesdrop into the CAN BUS to get the high beam command and
operate this light with high beam in sync. It has also a small wireless button for light stand alone operation, from the Swedish module maker

 

Please ignore the audio. Just thought the video was informative. It's what came up when I searched.

https://www.facebook.com/share/v/Z475iLiMtX1FgHtL/

 

Deleted posting error

 

My ILS LED 641 headlamp can't handle this road trip.

I just ran a scan some hours ago and the right headlamp unit, its curve road lamp actuator motor got overheated due to too much corners and and the severity of the corners
Car can't go fast, so wind velocity not so good and engine was hot climbing the mountain.








It got overheated on the return journey, because it was night time.
That AlfaMart south of the map is the place I waited 1 hour for darkness to come , to do the return journey.


The total journey is below :




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This is where the light actuator motor overheating occurred, the first 64KM of the journey home. Its a mountain climb.
Below log is 243KM, so I marked the first 64KM in green.



.




The mountain ambient air is quite cool at 19C being the coldest and yet the actuator motor can overheat....what a crap design
The underhood or engine bay temperature is typical for slow driving, 88 - 95C, but usually at 30-32C ambient temp and not at 19C.


ILS = Irriitating Light System .



----------------------------------------------------



The journey to there ( south side, AlfaMart at Cidaun) is going down the mountain, in day light. Logging started from a fuel stop 2 hours away from AlfaMart and not from my home.
AlfaMart is a small 7-11 kinda of shop.

This is the highest caliper temperature I have ever seen. 2A is front caliper, 2B is rear caliper. Both thermocouple sensors are at the Right Wheels .

 

Sorry to read about ILS disliking your mountain adventure trip. At least you had your new HL projectors to make up for this!


so many turns overheated the curves illumination actuator !!

How about taking out the actuator unit to lube it with high-temp brake silicone! I think that's all it really needs - - (Soldering may not be necessary).

The HL control module monitors PWM current peaks to quit actuating and generate service needs. MB grease formulation evaporates into sticky glue.

On my end, I've made a little progress related to HL.
Now my basic LED Fans stop 10 secs after engine off!!
Best of allED Fans do not resume running endlessly a minute after stopping!

I was amazed the first time this happened as I was not expecting "extreme heatsoaks" were causing that.

LED HL have zero cooling issue when they not heated by the engine bay. Not HL firmware issue but an engine limited oiling issue.


+++ BRIGHT INCENTIVE ++++
Remember a while ago, I thought high heat was detuning LED Light output to keep the LED within temp range.
My HL are bright daylight white.

You may find that "Canceling Extreme Heatsoak" restores LED brightness... TBD!
More heat > less light
Less Heat > More Light!

More power to you.

 

Nothing on you prihadi but these mountain roads in the US was so annoying once LEDs and HIDs came out. When coming against or being followed by someone going on the short duration hills and valleys was like being constantly flashed with high beams. Worse yet is most younger people now a days dont know how to dim there lights, they leave high beams on because they havnt been out of the city with lower light situations.

Looks like ya need to get a motorcycle to enjoy those mountain roads, 6.5' is plenty for a 2 wheeler. I remember enjoying similar roads except for the one time the warning sign for switchback was broken off and in the same ditch I went into.

 

I can't ride a motorbike, I am terrified of them.
I can ride ( bad ) in a controlled area and if automatic tranny.... and very slow.

 

@S-Prihadi but the ILS still works fine right after clearing out the codes? overheats is only temporary right? At least it's not the plastic gears gave up (usually japanese car with AFS is prone with thiis issue)

 

Engine bay too hot Cali.... there is nothing I can do.

I heat soaked the headlights during the +- 1 hour stop at Alfamart Cidaun waiting for dark to come.

Never I ran my engine for 7.x hours non stop, not even for fuel stop. This is first time. Usually 5 hours max non stop.
I got the Coffee-Rest warning on the dash at the highway heading home, I think it was the 6th hour or so.


Below is fuel stop >>>Alfamart at Cidaun >>> Home.
I keep engine idling at Alfamart for the approx 1 hour wait to get dark, I keep AC running..





I was checking my dash cam footage for the entire 64KM where the overheat occurred.
I just realized that, while the DTC claimed it is the curve motor, actually what moves a lot too is the self leveling part .






There are only 3 motors in the headlight assy for "movement" of light beam.
I know for sure thru testing, that M2 which is called Active Curve is is for the light module 1 ( The high and low beam ) only.
What I am not sure yet is the light module 1 and 2, they both can go up-down and both do it together, not independently. Is that one motor doing the work for both lights using parallel rod ?
M1 and M2 I am not sure which does what.
One thing for sure, the light module 1 is a low beam and high beam using shutter blade and not extra LED chip, that needs a motor too.


.

I am guessing the black thingy is the Low Beam to High Beam shutter window. The clear shutter but hazy looking one is more for wide angle or front fog light diffuser.... again I am guessing.
I use to use such diffuser for my diving torch if I want to reduce hot spot for underwater video work.





I think M3 Light Distribution actuator motor is for the Low Beam to High Beam shutter window actuation.
I also thinks that M1 Headlamp range adjustment is the motor controlling up/down for both light module 1 and 2.
There are only 3 movement motors , and not 4 motors.
1 for high beam>>low beam shutter flap
1 for up/down both light module 1 and 2 ....... sharing 1 motor.
1 for Left Right of Curve capability of light module 1 ( the low and high beam ).


Here is what I believe as M1 motor doing its work, controlling up/down for both light module 1 and 2


Here is a fun fact about DTC of the headlight. While I was testing, this DTC terrified me


I thought Oh-oh now my other actuator motor is jammed up.


Do you know why I get this DTC and one more from Multi Function Camera - MFK ?



I guess the DTC editor team is not creative enough to make a DTC explaining that the MFK is being blocked by my car cover .... LOL



MFK camera is VISUALLY blocked, not the damn headlight actuator MECHANICALLY BLOCKED .... ha ha ha

 

Its okey, no permanent damage. But if I do it too often, perhaps the motor will someday freeze
The headlight assy is advance enough to prevent overheating further.
But overall LED light assy is not something we want its internal to be hot....but there is nothing we can do as long as its design being a completely sealed unit and is
part of the engine bay. How much worse working condition can it get ? LOL

If speed is 60KM/H or higher even better at 100 KM/H, all is good and cool, even when at 30C ambient temperature.

Elevated temperature will destroy stuff.....or shorten its life.

 

you're saying the communication fault is because MFK was covered up. Hella HL fault is seriously misleading... that's where fault criteria is necessary to understand something - Normal description are properly useless
That provides everyone with excuses to replace a bunch of good parts to look busy


temps 1Hr stop + idling with A/C
we see temps activity but no engine RPM, we assume 700Rpm idling.

coolant temp :
A - first climbs when you stopped
B - then stabilize flat during idling
C - then back down... this suggest engine off

in correlation with...
engine bay temps:
A - lowest while driving
B - climbs up during idling
C - Peaks highest engine stopped?


A week ago, Northern California had the annual 100°F "Indian-summer" weather.... perfect for hands on testing extremes temps

Well I got extremely surprised when the radiator fan was off upon returning to garage and LED HL cooling fans shutting off 20s after engine off. I shut off A/C over a mile away from the house to give evaporator a chance to dry out.

Ambient was extremely hot but the engine was not. I concluded this experiment with "extreme heatsoak cancelled"!

You really don't need to put with the stock high heat !!!
Keeping 200°F coolant in 100°F ambient is NO problem, smart fan speed remove radiator heat really well despite A/C condenser active.
Cooling system is effective with plenty of reserve if you remove heat as it is being produced. Heat never gets acculated to become extreme.

The contrast was fan running high in winter on stock oiling. Now I get NO-FAN in 100°F ambient + cool bright LED.

 

Cali wrote :

coolant temp :
A - first climbs when you stopped
B - then stabilize flat during idling
C - then back down... this suggest engine off

The engine is never OFF on that 7.x hours of logging.
At some minutes of idling after I arrived at that AlfaMart, coolant temp went down to 90 - 92C and then later it goes to its usual 102C thermal game....for a while..
This is normal thermal management of my engine, and you can only see it with OBD2 and a logger. I would think M276 3.5 NA will be similar in profile, albeit no turbo.






Excel data points 31,000 ish. When first arrived at Alfamart and idling for some minutes. Nice 92 - 93C




Now engine starts to play its thermal game to 102 Celsius .......... at 35,000 ish excel data points. At 5hz per 1,000 excel data points is 3.3 minutes.





By excel data points 38,000 ish and up , ECM thermal game is over and coolant back to 94C till I took off to return home and climb that mountain at 50,000 ish Excel data points.




50,000 ish Excel data points and I am taking off now.....




One need to get an honest OBD gauge to see his/her engine true thermal behavior.
You can't rely on the white liar analog needle gauge .

 

stepped idling temps
I see, idling non-stop causing odd response...

It must be the step temperature mapping controlled by ECU.

mapped controlled Tstat

​​​​​​ECU manages coolant temp excluding heat stored in pistons being unaccounted by computations.

Limited idle work does not see high mechanical friction.
Idling RPM guarantees dry pistons storing increasingly extreme heat from combustions.

What's interesting is we see coolant temp stepping down nicely stable... where in fact real engine heat is positively stored unmeasured.

 

One bad habit of my engine thermal management.
It is an opportunistic basta-rd ..... it likes to do 105C during traffic stop even in warm 30C ambient temp. 103C minimum.

When ambient temp is cool, say 20-22C, it will heat up my engine for a short time to 103-105C even at highway speed where usually it will target 90 - 95C.

One thing I am seeing with good consistency is that , if a trip is 20 minutes or more, be it day or night, it will want to do at least once to 103C within the first 20 minutes .... , usually when I am
at traffic light stop.

As long as it does not overheat, I am cool.
Now imagine if the analog needle gauge is not set to do its white lie.... 99% of people will freak seeing 105C / 221F

 

it would be alarming to see the needle swing up and down aggressively

Bosch reportedly aims to evaporate gasoline and condensation out of the crankcase oil. WIS mentions, engine always reach peak temp *once* in every drive cycle for that purpose.

Would it be great if engine temps could truly be kept under control.
Heat would be an absolute non-issue as expected from a premium German luxury brand.

A great amount of technology got deployed for minimal results. Oil sensing was removed and gauges turned into liars to save appearances.

Fan blasting in winter plus quarts of vaporized oil in new engines conceal a different reality.... sweet!

 

S-P, there are numerous videos on YT of US state police with ALL their flashing lights on, on the shoulder of the road with another vehicle. Then they get hit by a clueless driver (like the truck you show). During the day! Later, the driver who hit the officer says "I didnt see you". Huh? I no longer consider the shoulder safer than the highway. Recently, I had to (very slowly) drive a vehicle with a flat tire about 4 miles to get off the highway to an exit where the tire could be changed more safely. I agree with all your safety measures which, until now, I did not realize that I had accumulated most of them over the years :-) I hope that a future trip to DPS ensures that you arrive safely.... to pick me up

 

DPS = Bali Denpasar...awesome Colonel
The human factor , I mean the one who will hit us is what we can't control, that I agree.
That would be truly bad Uncle Murphy at play.

At the least on our part, we must try be as safe as possible, when we can.