I was googling and I found fellow victims here since 2019 : https://mbworld.org/forums/gl-class-...acting-up.html

I will probably soon join their club.

The typical conditions :
01. Usually acting up on long trip. TRUE for me.
02. Eventually the problem will happen more and more often. I can't comment on this one...yet.

Had twice so far this DTC event, and always on a long trip. The 2nd event on 9 oct 2024, I did not loose function of my turn signal.
The first time, back in 31st Aug, the turn signal won't work till engine off key off and back ON again.


Too bad till today I could not find W212 type steering column full teardown video or photos to see how the signal light stalk mechanism is.
I seen older MB version.


Up to US$650 in USA, but back-ordered and has new updated part number :
Mine is : A2129008515 9051 the 9051 means BLACK COLOR



Left Headlight DTC will also be triggered, because the signal light is at the headlight unit. Left headlight is the Boss of the two headlights, kind of.



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Turn Signal is the highest use stalk on the steering column, if for me. Not tranny D-N-P stalk.



Older model MB has the switch assy stand alone for purchase

https://www.ebay.com/itm/126151153699



Ours is ......: buy N80 complete steering column module, that's it.​​​​​​​

 

mine was replaced because a kid (my nephew) was playing with it and broke it 🫠. this was years ago tho

 

One of the most common problems with many models. Unfortunately, the complete assembly comes as one.

 

If I were young, I would be that kid

 

Well, play and pay
Thanks

 

You know SCM is built to need service. Many things around there need help. Either soldering, greasing or both.

I remember after fixing SCM my car surprised me by driving straight instead of acting as if toed out.
SCM multi board Sandwich
Tilt mechanism
EIS sensor
Flaps A/C

 

Yes Cali, I agree.
I will strip down and do improvement on my unit when I already have new one in hand and installed.
You know my rough fingers, plastic will usually break when I touch them

I know you have tear down yours, please share best photo archive you got.
I am curious on the turn signal switch + wiper + headlight stalk

Thanks

 

SCM sandwich is not worth the time to research all the PN#... way too many!
I have this dismantled there....

The T-signal itself is likely not too bad but a surrounding PCB has marginal loose pins....

here it is waiting for attention
I lubed my carbon tracks/sliders with electric silicon grease after gently cleaning carbon with alcohol.

The problem is mostly developed around the premium loose pins used to cut down useability.

Rework solderless + dried grease of:

• steering wheel boards
• steering column sandwich
• tilting column lube
• EIS solderless
• A/C flaps modules dried/ solderless

easy access with column removed
impossible with column installed



+++ You'll want a somewhat clean environment to work with SCM + EIS optical sensors. Not a dusty garage bench!

 

ohhhh, so that is how the contact points looks like .. Arigato Cali San



Folded type springy mini copper bar as pressure maker.

 

Do-zo Dō-itashi-mashi-ta MS! san
always glad to help your day go easy.

​​​​Have you tried clean Japanese whisky? It's a really sharp improvement on the originals.


> Do It Once, Do It Right!
I think my best advice for you is to save on repeat labor - The whole steering column is loaded with chaos opportunities.

Your turn signal PITA is really caused solderless SCM BS!
Not the dry sliders as if your car was 200kMi.

As always: solderless pins is very simple if your careful, no electronics troubleshooting involved.
Find 'em solder (clean) (coat).

First step: unplug all BATT GND!

Make sure you don't touch or spray Optical Sensors. Instead protect, inspect and clean them.

Reworking EIS module is a must while you're there! It's small and extra simple.

Your reward shall be quicker tranny shifting and straight firm steering on highway courtesy SCM.
I tell you, canceling solderless is adictive & rewarded in performance.


I will only ask you to measure every improvements or else it can't be... your chassis will thank you.


This the season ...

 

Yikessss !!!!




========

I like Hibiki, its a nice Japanese whisky.

========

Dang, MB Indonesia does not have stock of the SCM, Singapore and Germany too..... ALL NO STOCK !!!!
No fix date for new stock. This is similar to the timing chain I once ordered, but I was fortunate it was actually only 4 months wait from an UNKNOWN wait time schedule.


Options :
1. Wait till turn signal goes banana even on short distance use and do no 2.
2. As soon as possible : Do what Cali does on SCM and pray I break no fragile plastic parts .... with my rough azz fingers.

I will still try to find a new one, so I got back up.

 

A new SCM circuit board would be half as bad as the one you have now.

The networking error rate is hidden to remain quiet under wrap until its high enough to create service run around....

Believe me it's already poor brand new. After I soldered this particular SCM many related modules performance begun to be more responsive.

Something tells me solderless in tropical humidity with A/C cycling is helping produce condensation... hence oxidation. This PCB is carefully unprotected

You may want to initiate module soldering ahead of failures. It's simple, free and performance rewarding ✌️



soldering iron size for reference

I have just completed my last side front radar module. Too early to tell what improvement that will bring. I will review details once I know.

 

ASK :

Are those round thingy your encorder tone wheel ?
If so, how to remove it from the optical encoder reader without breaking it ?
I mean the other model ( Valeo ) is a pull up removal of clock-spring, hence I wonder how can the encorder tone wheel not break for ur model ?





I keep seeing this model only in utube, I think VALEO. The tone wheel is there and not with the cover ( clock spring ) like yours.






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.

 

There's a third option. But a BMW badged on the steering wheel and stop using the turn signal all together

Jokes aside, this seems like a thought repair. I would also feel more confortable having a replacement part at hand before attempting to fix it.

 

...good one.
For my country a BMW badge is not good enough if I were to drive reckless, this brand is better : BAJAJ or Tuk Tuk in Thailand for this 3 wheeler


3 wheelers taxi driver in my country is one of the WORST




2 or 3 wheelers are not allowed in my country PAID highway.
This dude is even crazier, he entered the PAID highway and goes against traffic while at it



I have once been shocked by a motorbike, also doing the same shi-et ...run against traffic in an elevated PAID highway and on the most right lane ( highest speed lane for RHD country ).
Good thing I saw him from a distance and I was on the most right fastest lane. He maintained leech tight to the wall/separator, me, I gave him half a lane.
Something like below, but it was at night and a single solo rider.

 

the SCM you're showing from Internet does not have the tilt steering option, it looks a bit different as the envodong wheel stays down when module is opened up.


different style from a Youtube.... chassis ?xyz?

yet its similar because it's an easy assembly... it may be impossible to get the top and bottom out of sync. There is no fancy relearning nothing procedure necessary: IN/OUT: Done!
easier than fixing the front/rear SAMs.

the only case that could require a new replacement would be an odd electronic failure.
Repairing circuit without schematic is a 50/50 chance. Usually its the power supply section that overworks caps from crappy Main_GND_Strap.
Power needs minimal ripples. SCM is really low power (unlike MFK is built to be a hot can with limited heat removal).
MS! this is not electronic repair, it's a rework to complete missing soldering. I've seen your electronic tools set: that is well within your wheelhouse.
Disonnect batteries
Pull steering wheel out
Remove footwell lower cover
Unplug SCM connector...
Pull SCM out
open the oyster shell
operate your magic steps ***
slap back in reverse!
(No Xentry procedure needed)

*** steps being:
lube the dry column ball bearing (brakes silicone)
lube dry slider contacts (electrical silicone)
inspect to solder each loose solderless pins

this SCM unit is easy cake walk unlike amazin' Mitsubishi COMAND with its 50 different screws all different sizes. I am gonna have to fix the day it calls Cali san!

Don't be afraid of SCM if you are careful. Nothing much to fix do much reward with good CAN-Bus.

+++ Now also do EIS VIP right nearby with rear access!

 

Oky doky, got it.

For back up sake, I managed to get a used one from Europe, Ebay.
3 months younger than my unit
Looks clean.Seems decent





But since this is a used goods, I cant import direct to Indonesia.
By law I can't import used goods

So I must use specialmethod.
I think soonest I will see it is December week 2, 2024.

I will first install this incoming unit, test all good.....and then I tear open mine.

 

That sounds like a solid safe-plan because your Xentry system can code modules.

This is a good rehersal procedure for reworking the solderless ESP Module. (mirror existing swap
In the case of EIS may need to virginize it before writing is possible or moving E2PROM over...
I know nothing of that

Hope you can show us your coding steps besides plug-in, code, done!

> Shortened Procedure!
Instead of wasting effort to truly activating the used spare unit, it is kept as a spare without coding and all efforts are concentrated solely on the original unit.

> The Long Way!
Mirror the current original module into used spare that's installed with all its poor solderless soldering. Complete waste of time for repeat job guaranteed once used module solderless plays up.

> Improved Somewhat:
A better version is to solder the loose pins before installing used module. Then original is kept as a bad spare.

Point being that skirting around the root cause soldering guarantees busy-work never improves a thing. As I said I can't stand known chaos.
​​​​​
> Super fast quicky No-fix:
Exercise the loose pins a bit to keep busy...

• bang-bang tap on the unit somewhat gently
• put a reset on the module
• done!

>>> A-1 OPPORTUNITY <<<
When dealing with a solderless VIP Module, don't skip a chance to easily improve your powertrain timings.

W212 solderless modules screw up ECU/TCU timings with nasty latencies that limit engine GDI abilities and bang the 722.9 tranny with delayed shifts <-- clutch killer!

You can consider stock to be pegged near limp-mode compared to the outstanding CAN-Bus operation with normal non-delayed timings.

Canceling the solderless game is a total no brainer. Stock engine output sucks until VIP modules are not prevented to work normally by artificial man-made delays.

As writen earlier, the new factory modules error rate is already high but hidden until extremely high rate calls it quit.
"fault-free" new modules are already loaded with enough errors to disrupting the chassis basic performance. This is really built circling-the-drain. The design are best workdclass grade but produced with loose pins to suck.

There are no honest reasons to tank powertrain performance from factory. Besides MFK-camera, ESP-brakes or SCM-steering should NOT have any way to impact engine injection timings... duh!
With a soldering iron... you have options to empower yourself.

 

I'm a bit intimidated by electronics repair. They are often a bit too small for my dexterity. Every time I see Cali posts I tend to get more courageous but I stopped at resoldering the keyless module so far.

Surya - Those 3-whell things look unstable standing still. I can only imagine at highway speeds...

 

The KeylessG is one perfect entry level module on CAN-B. Easy to get out, easy to solder...
in/out 1Hr

KeyG is part of a long string of CAN-B Module collection that slow down security polling while chassis is sleeping in reduced power mode.

My brand new Mercedes used to honk at me after unlocking and opening my driver door, good deal!
Original selling MB dealer was remarkably helpless under either factory and dealer purchased extended warranty. Amazin' MB ownership!

The slow crank speed on a new 4kMi car with oily smell and coolant leak lead me into action to sort out this chaos.

I soon realized the chaos was purposely built-in thanks to the help of MS! who directed me to check GND screws that I found painted, all of them!!

> MORE PWR TO YOU:
-- Extreme heat drama is caused by limited oiling

-- Poor powertrain performance tanked by CAN-C timings

-- Drained batteries by solderless CAN-B Modules

-- X-Mas-Tree limp mode at 60MPH !

-- Rain footwell soaker

-- Skipping wipers

What's your favorite... ?
(I don't have 4M, AirM, TT, nor ILS)

Caution: for safety learn to display Batt. Voltage/Amps sensor while driving

 

[QUOTE=CaliBenzDriver;9053018]The KeylessG is one perfect entry level module on CAN-B. Easy to get out, easy to solder...
in/out 1Hr

KeyG is part of a long string of CAN-B Module collection that slow down security polling while chassis is sleeping in reduced power mode.

What’s the second ‘easiest’ module to both access and improve connections? Been reading through your big post today actually @CaliBenzDriver … I would tackle the rain sensing module if someone could share exactly how to remove it properly?

 

[QUOTE=Jaybird123;9053068]yes Rain + humidity sensors are also entry level.
pull down plastic cover
release tie-down spring
there you have that blue gem in your hand.

Say hello to nearby MFK VIP Module while in there. It's an intermediate level because opening the crimped enclosure requires some degree of patience. ✌️

All those solderless modules require only 5 or 6 very obvious missing solders, that's it. Zero electronic troubleshooting.

Of course you need to know not to zap statics at exposed circuits like walking barefoot on carpet... keep your hands off the goods.

After that's done go say hello to your solderless doors control modules and their solderless button modules.

Powertrain performance will come from reworking the highspeed CAN-buses taxing CGW silly. Keep that for when you have experienced confidence in your abilities.

 

I agree. There is just too much interconnection and software defined options in modern cars. We are experiencing the same "programed" obsolescence issues that we have with our smartphones and computers with our cars. My FOB batteries would last a couple weeks before the KeyG rework. Now they last about 6-8 months which seems far more reasonable. And it was a pretty straight forward work even with my limited skills on electronics. I have to say that my car is mostly issues free on the electronics side (except the rear camera) but I think my local whether helps. My region is dry, hot and far away from the coast, so not very prone to oxidation issues.

I did had a recent issue after doing some reprograming on the Instrument Cluster (IC_204) with Vediamo. I changed the consumption units from L/100 KM to KM/L, which is essentially changing a bit in the unit coding. Did a reset of the IC via software and all seemed fine until I've noticed that the LH side mirror park function wasn't activating automatically anymore when reverse was selected. I had to manually press the RH mirror selection switch on the door with the gear in reverse for the function to engage.

I've spent a few days troubleshooting the code with Vediamo and the control units with Xentry but to no avail. The coding for the mirror park function was still active in the IC module and all the computers involved had no faults. Them it stroke me... I've only reset the IC unit and not all the rest. Disconnected both batteries, waited 5 minutes and voila... everything back to normal.

 

I am glad to read your progress to cancel built-in stock chaos.


> Reverse tilt mirror...
In my W212 after each chassis Reboot, no L/R side mirror is selected for tilting.
I need to select my prefered side tilt once only using button on the driver door.

(Windows, roof, seats,...) are all left undisturbed by reboots... sweet!

Reboot sanitize crazy CGW gone wild after enough junk solderless traffic exhausting memory of gateway function.


> Busy CAN-B String:
As far as keyfob battery upset...
It's now good for normally long enough not to remember like 2 or 3 years or so with all Keyless, key never inserted.
It's more than the KG module itself, its the whole CAN-B string that need to respond without delay then go back to sleep.

Less solderless -->> great chassis!

 

WOW.... this is a common EIS problem , the dumb-azz 3 pins female connector plastic body, broke off its solder point.
The solder point is for the 3 female copper terminals. The plastic body tags along only.
Damn, so fragile.

I was looking at videos on how people open up the EIS plastic body.....

I wonder if hot glue will assist some ? Connector plastic body glued to PCB board. Hot glue is not a strong glue, it is easy to remove.

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How can this happen ?
I mean that connector is a static unit, not like USB connector on our phone which we plug in everyday for charging.