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interesting… would that help my misfire/out of time as well?
You can experiment to pioneer this answer.
I hate to over promise... 90% likely possible ***
If your Cyl.1 misfire is indeed...
from bad VVT cam timings and
not swamped Cam+Lambda sensors or
lost cylinder compressions.
See we've gone a long way from in-tank pumps...
you need to Visually Inspect the VVT Lock-pins + Lambda connectors + CPS (+ compressions) to come up with solid plan to save time/money.
Ultimately if you do the right fix once only:
it's a victory for you and team MS!
*** you can try while you're getting ready for big fix surgery day.
Even my 15w40+ provides necessary idling pressure to position VVT at idle (as witnessed by rapid cold start idle sequence).
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Oct 24, 2024 at 04:05 PM.
Reason: poor oiling causes rattling
You can experiment to pioneer this answer.
I hate to over promise... 90% likely possible ***
If your Cyl.1 misfire is indeed...
from bad VVT cam timings and
not swamped Cam+Lambda sensors or
lost cylinder compressions.
See we've gone a long way from in-tank pumps...
you need to Visually Inspect the VVT Lock-pins + Lambda connectors + CPS (+ compressions) to come up with solid plan to save time/money.
Ultimately if you do the right fix once only:
it's a victory for you and team MS!
*** you can try while you're getting ready for big fix surgery day.
Even my 15w40+ provides necessary idling pressure to position VVT at idle (as witnessed by rapid cold start idle sequence).
So do I just unplug the solenoid and run the car? Or do I need to check the pins first? Sorry a little confused on this. I should check compression first before I do anything though.
So do I just unplug the solenoid and run the car? Or do I need to check the pins first? Sorry a little confused on this. I should check compression first before I do anything though.
yes unplug but need oil upgrade.
Thin stock oil does not have the pressure needed to work HPFP without lock-pins.
I just did an oil change on it with W40.
Is that good enough to test?
where is this solenoid located exactly?
.... that's unlikely great pressure but not wrong either. No worries I am still on w40 as well with a 15w40 (+200mL:15w50) on my way to 5/10w50.
Anyway at least this is fresh clean oil, not thin 0w40 sheared into W30 range. Precise hydraulic VVT work needs predictable pressure (ie. free of wild steps).
VVT actuation are dynamically pre-mapped ie. needs learning time.
The pump solenoid connector is located on bank-1 side of crank balancer pulley.
Tape or tie down harness so it doesn't go meet spinning balancer...
+++ Actual results are limited by oil pressure ie. viscosity range combined with temperature.
BTW engine oil temperature is linked to viscosity.
So the target oil viscosity is not an exact number but an experimental range I believe near 5/10/15-W50 based on engine, driving style, location...
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Oct 24, 2024 at 05:21 PM.
.... that's unlikely great pressure but not wrong either. No worries I am still on w40 as well with a 15w40 (+200mL:15w50) on my way to 5/10w50.
Anyway at least this is fresh clean oil, not thin 0w40 sheared into W30 range. Precise hydraulic VVT work needs predictable pressure (ie. free of wild steps).
VVT actuation are dynamically pre-mapped ie. needs learning time.
The pump solenoid connector is located on bank-1 side of crank balancer pulley.
Tape or tie down harness so it doesn't go meet spinning balancer...
+++ Actual results are limited by oil pressure ie. viscosity range combined with temperature.
BTW engine oil temperature is linked to viscosity.
So the target oil viscosity is not an exact number but an experimental range I believe near 5/10/15-W50 based on engine, driving style, location...
Tried it, ran fine for about a minute and then started misfiring again.
Your engine condition qualifies your chassis to stay on the road for another 100kMi.
Now check VVT Gear lock pins by manually rotating crankshaft CW ... if you hear "clunk" at fixed positions (bank1+2): you then open up VVT covers L+ R to witness VVT skiping forward
then you'll know for sure condition of VVT Gear.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Oct 24, 2024 at 06:31 PM.
Your engine condition qualifies your chassis to stay on the road for another 100kMi.
Now check VVT Gear lock pins by manually rotating CW crankshaft... if you hear "clunk" at fixed positions (bank1+2): you then open up VVT covers L+ R to witness VVT skiping forward
then youll know for sure condition of VVT Gear.
Ok, found oil in 2/4 CPS connectors and these sensors itself seem damaged.
No clicking noise heard, put it at 53 degrees and checked. All seem to line up except bank 2 intake side, possibly why I have that code for the bank 2 CPS..
Just both exhaust side CPS. Could that be why they were reading so high? Or is that vvt actuator jumped?
If you have electronic contact cleaner around, spray all the CPS connectors on both sides, wait until they are dried and you can give a short run afterward just to see what else shows up before oil makes it through the CPS again.
Start filling up your FCPEuro cart with CPS, and xxx.
No clicking noise at all. So do I replace the CPS and test it? Or do I also do that one VVT actuator that seems to be jumped? But that actuator is on bank 2 and I was getting a cyl 1 mis…
No clicking noise at all. So do I replace the CPS and test it?
Or do I also do that one VVT actuator that seems to be jumped?
But that actuator is on bank 2 and I was getting a cyl 1 mis…
This does not add up... let me think.
Your wild VVT timings is on both intakes and locks preliminary checked to sound ok.
Camshafts reluctors shifted... both intakes??
You can visually check for weird timing marks through CPS holes. ($$$ camshafts?)
That's entirely possible given rattling was ignored long enough.
> SOMETHING ELSE does not add up:
Can not have bad camshaft reluctors with good VVT!!!
Either both items bad or VVT only.
physically Inspect timing marks though CPS holes,
youll see them skip forward while rotating crank.
++++ RECAP-02 BEING:
Confirmed good Cyl.1
Conf. bad oily exhaust CPS
Likely good VVT (prelim. "no clunk")
Dry Lambda + ECU
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Oct 24, 2024 at 07:26 PM.
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
This is interesting. I am having no problems with my car, yet my cam adjustments are very similar to yours. The engine was running at the time. Tomorrow I will check with my Autel and XENTRY to see if I have different values. Not sure if your VVT is broken or not.
Last edited by JettaRed; Oct 24, 2024 at 07:53 PM.
This is interesting. I am having no problems with my car, yet my cam adjustments are very similar to yours. The engine was running at the time. Tomorrow I will check with my Autel and XENTRY to see if I have different values. Not sure if your VVT is broken or not.
both intakes near 37° (Max ref'ed as 23)
scanners don't seem to agree on acceptable range.
Autel fault cam positions out of range where iCarsoft does not.
Since JR's engine is good and OP says his engine "runs well": AUTEL likely WRONG!!!
Time to see Xentry as reference
🤗
OP original DTC/CEL is Cyl.1 Misfire.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Oct 24, 2024 at 07:53 PM.
Hmm all I can think of then are the CPS giving ECU false info? Do I just replace them and put everything back and check? Btw I didn’t replace the spark plugs I just switched them and it stayed at cyl 1.
but are isn’t that intake bank 2 cam adjuster out of time? Why are all those lining up the same except that one at 53 degrees..?
Hmm all I can think of then are the CPS giving ECU false info?
Do I just replace them and put everything back and check?
Btw I didn’t replace the spark plugs I just switched them and it stayed at cyl 1.
The way this seems to add up better is...
ok VVT gears until visually proven unlocked/bad.
Wet exhaust CPS can *not* screw up intake position - - Autel scanner likely has bad firmware loaded (update!!)
Good job on testing Cyl.1 moving plug around is totally fine.
Did you move coil as well?
(these hot engines can/do fry 100kMi coils)
+++ NEED A VISUAL inspection
on Cam position skipping or not
then we'll know big job or small job. camshaft timings holes
Confim 4x cam static marks line up
Confirm VVT Gears dont skip foreward .. unlocked
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Oct 24, 2024 at 08:00 PM.
The way this seems to add up better is...
ok VVT gears until visually proven unlocked/bad.
Wet exhaust CPS can *not* screw up intake position - - Autel scanner likely has bad firmware loaded (update!!)
Good job on testing Cyl.1 moving plug around is totally fine.
Did you move coil as well?
(these hot engines can/do fry 100kMi coils)
Yeah coil is swapped too. Just did a software update on scanner. Now I have to put everything back together tomorrow and rescan? :/
should I do anything before putting stuff back?
Yeah coil is swapped too. Just did a software update on scanner. Now I have to put everything back together tomorrow and rescan? :/
should I do anything before putting stuff back?
yes, inspect 4x camshafts static timing marks right now.
There's a YT video or... simply rotate FWD only until cams reluctor mark + crank are all lined up (Rwd will use sloppy chain slack... no-no!).
We're almost done pounding all the nails on this thing - - So far a good auction deal
++++ RECAP-03 BEING:
Cyl.1 physically insp.: ok!
Cyl.1 plug/Cop swapped: ok!
Cyl.1 misfire DTC... LEAN?
CPS Oily exhaust: bad!
Likely good VVT (prelim. "no clunk")
Dry Lambda + ECU: ok!
HPFP+Tank pressures both: ok!
Q: THEN WHAT'S CAUSING LTFT ??
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Oct 24, 2024 at 08:47 PM.
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
The CPSs are going to be oily because they sit in the valve cover and there is oil thrown around by the cams. I don't think they are damaged but replacing them may not be a bad idea. Please, please, please, get Genuine CPSs. I swapped mine out with Delphi brand, which is usually good, and had a 50% failure rate. I put the old ones back in.
I recommend you get these and use them between the wiring harness and the CPSs and Cam solenoids.
Last edited by JettaRed; Oct 24, 2024 at 11:57 PM.
yes, withess 4x camshafts timing marks right now.
There's a YT video or simply rotate FWD only until everything is lined up (Rwd will use sloppy chain slack... no-no!).
We're almost done pounding all the nails on this thing - - So far a good auction deal
Will do tomorrow..lamee ik lol. I have to remove both those cam covers to see timing marks right? Are they yellow marks? All the yt videos are guys checking them from CPS ports but I don’t see anything.
Will do tomorrow..lamee ik lol. I have to remove both those cam covers to see timing marks right? Are they yellow marks? All the yt videos are guys checking them from CPS ports but I don’t see anything.
Yes only CPS ports nothing else.
Forget popping any covers... nooo!
at least you can see if camshafts skip forward loosely yes/no.
If cams are not loose then GREAT
timing marks may be missing: no problem.
So far none of this fixes LTFT...
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Oct 24, 2024 at 08:29 PM.
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