Hey team.

The Fob / Keyless Go is acting odd.
The Pushbutton Ignition does not work.

However, I am able to lock/unlock the doors by touching the handle and open the truck with the Fob Button.
I am able to start the ignition by removing the Start button and using the Fob as the Key.

When pushing the Ignition Start button, the red light on the Fob flashes.

Video of issue:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/19tc...m9nSKKHQUhhnM/

I recently changed the Fob Battery so I ruled out that issue.

2013 e350 cabrio

Has anyone seen this before?
I've searched but couldn't find this exact issue.

Thank you!

 

You're right this is a curve ball... Keyless integration has many ways to displease owners.

There are many things you can do including getting an MB specialist involved either locally or remotely with @BenzNinja who's an acclaimed MBw forum partner unlike "PM_me_now" random snipers.

You have done a good deal of preliminary steps to rule out the fob being bad. Including red LED flashing when Start button is pressed.

So I can say... what I believe is happening is delayed CAN-B Coms prevent normal DAS processing. Stealth CAN-Bus Delays are featured in this generation of chassis.

The short-term steps may be...
-1- SCAN the chassis...
-2- REBOOT the chassis...

The long-term steps may be...
-1- RESOLDER marginal CAN+B modules


> STATUS:
-- Right now Keyfob and KeylessG modules appear responsive... no reason to replace anything without cause.

-- The chassis scan will show if any chaos (footwell/SAM soaker) is actively disrupting basic processing.

-- Current condition has a chance to discharge your main AGM while parked or while driving. Use a float charger to keep up chassis electricals with normal currents to preserve starter.

-- Let's see what your chassis scan leads us....
Use a Launch MB Elite scanner or pls research english code descriptions.

 

That's a funny thing because I'm recently having same issues as OP . The keyfob seems to start acting weirdly since key fob battery replacement (As recommended I inserted 2025 ) .
I have searched the videos as to how to troubleshoot and tried that :
When you're in the car press the unlock button on the key fob , press the lock button and then press unlock . Your indicator lights should blink . This is how you reprogram it . So did I but it seems that my keyfob problem wasn't solved as of yet . A few days ago, it didn't recognize the key fob either . I accidentally opened the trunk by just pressing the button the driver's side and key fob was recognized again .
Another strange thing I should share with you :
If I lock the car using keyfob there's no problem but if I lock the car using the touchpad on the door handles and come back after a while trying to unlock the door touching the touchpad on the door handles , the doors won't unlock . However, pressing the unlock buttons works
There's a module in the trunk (left side ) #8 red 7.5 AMP fuse , it may need a replacement as well from what I hear but I doubt that's the problem . Today, I have decided to switch the keyfobs to see if the problem still persists .

 

Sorry you have to put up with keyfob nightmare.

There are many incarnations of the wild KeylessGo module.

Try the following help...
Short-term steps may be...
-1- SCAN the chassis...
-2- REBOOT the chassis...

Long-term steps may be...
-1- RESOLDER marginal CAN+B modules

The bad bews is the W212 Keyless module drains main AGM Battery and rain chaos on CAN-B, that means poor ALT voltage control by R-SAM in addition.

This is one of the first defect I repaired (here) on my chassis.

loose pins collection


loose pins actually detune engine with poor ECU timings

Mercedes dealer could never figure why my car alarm would hunk at me after Unlocked and opened driver door - I got fed up and started to fix A to Z...
the worst finding is even the ESP module is quietly impacting ECU/engine.

 

@CaliBenzDriver I just couldn’t figure out how to get that module out of the car! I could only see one bolt…

 

It's easy to get this entry level module out...
1- DISCONNECT ALL BATT PWR.
2- locate module above R-Sam
3- loosen #10 nuts
4- lift up module out of slotted holes
5- open up enclosure latches
6- keep your hands off PCB... edges better!
7- assess overall condition (post pictures)
8- deliver the fix with hot solder iron
9- (optional PCB conformal coating if you have it)
10- mount back / restore chassis pwr.
11- chassis scan for bus fitness

Now your KeylessG works perfectly better than factory new module.


Next stop are the 4x DCU's
Pretty soon battery drain while parked will be history as CAN-Bus speed gets normalized.

I experimentaly found YoYo discharge to be caused by disruptions of CGW gateway.
That same thing also impacts delayed tranny oddly banging shifts. Notice this chaos is temporarily sanitized by simple chassis REBOOTS.... indulge!

-- Your goal in soldering poor connections is to allow for normal CAN-Bus transfers carefully busted by factory setup.

What you're fixing is....:
--- the ECU engine timings are ridiculously made sensitive to CAN-Bus.

-- you wil notice ECU transforming engine response.
The multishot injection will get enabled with all its 900.Rpm torque. Pressure sensitive gas pedal response included in stock GDI ECU.

--- the tranny shifts depend directly on timely collaboration with ECU. Your great TCU will reward you with extreme perfection given [ECU<-->TCU] CAN-C is reworked to normal condition. PERFECT ECU/TCU TIMINGS BEING THE ULTIMATE CHERRY ON YOUR CAKE PINACLE REWARD...

--- You'll get increasing taste of awesome engine timings as you fix busy VIP modules like: SCM, EIS, MFK, ISM, ESP... (in that order).

--- the CGW has marginal limited resilience to traffic jam caused by re-stransmits traffic based on poor connections.

--- Overall we can work around all these limits by cancelling the solderless chaos wasting chassis performance.

--- Imagine the KeylessG CAN-B module acts as a witness for what's happening on CAN-C that must be pristine for VIP's timings.


This practical analysis is more power for you to experiment with carefully. Basic soldering required. In case you haven't got "normal" engineoiling: pay attention to even cylinders contributions from clean rings. They are needed to get predictable timings.

 

Do you have any pics of the module case where I might see the attachment points? As you know, this is all done blindly except for the one visible nut in ‘bottom left corner’ of unit…at least on my e63s sedan.

I must be bigger size than you lol…I have to crawl in my trunk, shove my gorilla arm up behind sam…and fumble around 😅

 

snap a picture I'll point things out (my trunk is all dressed up right now).

Plan B is eBay pictures from p/n.

 

Took one the other day when I was exploring…but it’s a bit too close up to help I think. Sharing it anyways

 

trust yourself, this thing is going to come down before you know!
Use a mirror + flashlight to help yourself if you have to.
There's a chance the plastic enclusure is fastened to a mounting braket that's attached to the chassis.

Take your time, it's not German rocket science.
🤞

 

This is an unbelievably bad testament of shoddy work! How in the world did this even function properly from the factory with solder joints looking as poor as that? Wow!!!
I haven't addressed my half-working taillight lens but have read it's a similar malady with broken/cold solder joints ...ridiculous!
And thanks for the post/pics!

Edward

 

These are not exactly missing solder joints forgotten during manufacturing... nope!
These are "pressed pins". They could be mistaken for an attempt not to use soldering if they worked well.

Pins could nearly be okay besides the way they are implemented to cause poor connections. Significant resistance causes voltage drop.
Many paralleled connections should be used for CAN network to lower in-line resistance.

The only thing good is what happens when pins are easily soldered. Modules start working spectacularly well. Every single module I've reworked delivered outstanding network performance So I tend to conclude these pins are premium engineered chaos.

Pins wouldn't be amazin' without the ECU/TCU being so sensitive to network latencies.
This is how cancelling solderless is rewarded in performance transformation.
There is foul play when high error rate of VIP CAN-C modules is concealed below-radar threshold to deliver poor performance.
Somewhere I wrote about the contrast of very nicely CRIMPED + SOLDERED GND wires that end up on a solderless pins.

Can we guess why engineered weaknesses are designed in selected modules and not ECU/TCU?
Because powertrain can be disrupted remotely.
EIS provides the "NoCrank-NoStart" and CGW provides exponential latencies. All this sofistication amounts to mandatory maintenance.

 

Thank you for the reply.
Im not sure if I understand what you are recommending I do to troubleshoot this...
Thanks again.

 

To troubleshoot it's option One:
-1- SCAN the chassis...

Suggested tool is an Elite codeReader by Launch Co. In addition assistance can be provided remotely by MB expert @BenzNinja .

 

I see.
Thank you.

 

What I did was loosen the 3 bolts that attach the metal bracket to the chassi and them remove the keyless-go module from the bracket. One loosen the 3 bolts, the bracket will move up and the bolts head will go trough the enlarged holes on the chassi (see the pictures with the red arrows). Just remember to unclip the red plastic handle for the emergency fuel cap release from the bracket as it will prevent it from moving around. My hand couldn't reach the top mounting nut that attaches the module to the bracket.

 

thank you Andre for this W212 detail.
Disconnect chassis batteries before any module.

 

Thank you so much, GREAT PICS!!

 

Update from OP:

Even though the original symptom was Pushbutton Start failing, eventually even using the Fob as the Key started failing too.

All symptoms point to a weak Steering Column Lock actuator for my specific issue.

Normally, when trying to crank the car (pushbutton or using the fob as the key), there is a quick "Ziiiiip" noise. That's the steering lock retracting. (Same sound with you shut down the car, its the lock engaging).

For whatever reason, my lock wasn't retracting. I read its a somewhat common issue.

Temp fix: Jiggle the Steering Wheel back and forth a little roughly while the car is off and try again. For me it started right up.
Cheap Permanent fix: Steering wheel lock emulator and install ~$300
Proper fix: Replace Steering Wheel Lock at dealer: ~$1,200

What are your thoughts?

FWIW, this forum DELIVERS!
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...ml#post6269888

 

sounds right if this is pre-facelift hydraulic power steering rack.

EPS electrically assisted racks don't use any lock, they just don't move -

To deal with steering lock either with a programmed emulator or replace $2 motor for unaltered operation.

 

Just had the emulator installed today.
So far so good. If something comes up I'll post back here. but until then the issue is Sorted!

Thanks guys!

 

no question the emulator works well. You will be happy with that bypass solution.

 

UPDATE : ( OP please don't mind my intrusion here )
After switching back to the original keyfob whose battery was replaced recently ,I got a faulty fob message yesterday . It worked fine for a few days ,even unlocking the doors via touchpads on the door handles worked very well.
However yesterday he gauge cluster said : Replace the button and insert the key to start the engine . I just pressed the unlock button , lock button and then unlock button again to start the car . It worked but I'm not satisfied at all . If my keyfob has been a bad one who on earth everything seemed to worked neatly or if there's a problem with one of the fuses (7.5 AMP one) then why did it wait that much to ignore the keyfob .
I don't think there's a problem with the fuse or keyless go otherwise my other key fob also could endure some issues as well

 

Ok, let he ask you... :
-- Does your keyfob truly drains battery or is the car misrepresenting keyfob condition?

Keyfob coin-cell can very well be consumed by the sleepless chassis.

Disfunctioning keyfob is caused by unstable KeylessGo module + EIS keyslot - Once that's taken care of this works perfectly with long lived keyfob and "no drain by parking".

 

I've found a service bulletin regarding the fat discharge of the key fob on the forum, and I was wondering if anyone has tried this. It requires SCN coding which is not something I'm currently able to do at home with the tools I have available (Xentry passthrough and Vediamo).