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I had my rear window changed recently after tint shop damaged the defrost wiring. Now after getting a glass shop to install new glass, the sun curtain is not lifting from left side. I tried to lift it by hand while someone operated the switch, but no go. I looked online but nothing found specific to W212.
I had my rear window changed recently after tint shop damaged the defrost wiring. Now after getting a glass shop to install new glass, the sun curtain is not lifting from left side. I tried to lift it by hand while someone operated the switch, but no go. I looked online but nothing found specific to W212.
You can try to gingerly pop up the stuck side with a plastic prybar while someone else hits the up button, they may have jammed it down too far at the glass shop.
Next month, I'll be up in the peninsula, so I'll come and see you and we could take a stab at it, LOL!
Who are you going to look at when sun-dried plastics snap???
This is not difficult to hack that... just time consuming - Like 2 to 3 hours in & out or 1Hr after you took 2Hrs to locate procedure steps.
I called glass shop and told him about the issue. Surprisingly, he offered to take a second look at his work, so I'll be seeing them this coming weekend, crossing my fingers.
I took car in to the glass shop. They messed around with it for over an hour, and guy came back and said it was beyond his skill level. He advised to take it to dealer and let him know how much the repairs would be which they'll cover. I'm still in disbelief they offered to cover the repair costs. I'll take it in after the holiday.
My rear shade was stuck down when I got the car from years of non-use. I got it to go up by prying while someone hit the switch, but it went up very unevenly. I finally got it stowed away in the down position mostly cleanly, but it's buggered until I can get a chance to pull my rear shelf and fix it properly. This seems pretty common.
I took car in to the glass shop. They messed around with it for over an hour, and guy came back and said it was beyond his skill level. He advised to take it to dealer and let him know how much the repairs would be which they'll cover. I'm still in disbelief they offered to cover the repair costs. I'll take it in after the holiday.
I found mine to be unreliable after a few tries (2011 purchased this year), so I do not use it, on my Indies advice, and he owns the same model.
The rear window is now well tinted though.
Mercedes has a specific lube for sunroofs (P/N 0019894651 "Gleitpaste"). It's expensive and comes in a big tub which is enough for about 80,000 sunroofs (not that expensive per sunroof). I wonder if they spec it for the other things on your list, and why they don't use something that doesn't dry up like this stuff. Previous research told me the Gleitpaste is probably a very clean polyurea grease.
Mercedes has a specific lube for sunroofs (P/N 0019894651 "Gleitpaste"). It's expensive and comes in a big tub which is enough for about 80,000 sunroofs (not that expensive per sunroof). I wonder if they spec it for the other things on your list, and why they don't use something that doesn't dry up like this stuff. Previous research told me the Gleitpaste is probably a very clean polyurea grease.
the only grease I recognize that's necessarily different is the high speed wheel bearings application.
Sunroof motor uses a soft metal gear drive so when it forces too much you're guaranteed to require maintenance or repair.
I dont know what's specific about their roof grease... graphite?
I don't think it has any graphite. It's a very pure white. Not an opaque white like lithium grease, a more translucent gel like a very white polyurea. The stuff I'm thinking of is actually for the rails. The gear probably has something else spec'd for it, but I'm not sure.
Interestingly, other car companies also spec their own sunroof greases. My friends with Japanese cars have identified a specific Subaru sunroof grease and a specific Honda sunroof grease.
At least one of those lubes is a Shinetsu silicone.
BMW has a special one called RHF 1, but I wasn't able to find an SDS or manufacturer...
I'm back to the rear sun shade issue where it stopped working after glass shop replaced my rear glass. I have a small claims court case against the shop in less than a month. They're arguing they didn't touch the sun shade and as their work was done from outside the vehicle. I suspect the glass defroster plug is located inside the C-pillar where they'd have to remove the side panel to access the receptacle. Can anyone confirm this? I say this because if they tried to remove side panel/trim, they had to do this from inside the car where they could have come into contact with the sun shade as they attempted to pry out the C-pillar panels. Does this hold any water?
I'm back to the rear sun shade issue where it stopped working after glass shop replaced my rear glass. I have a small claims court case against the shop in less than a month. They're arguing they didn't touch the sun shade and as their work was done from outside the vehicle. I suspect the glass defroster plug is located inside the C-pillar where they'd have to remove the side panel to access the receptacle. Can anyone confirm this? I say this because if they tried to remove side panel/trim, they had to do this from inside the car where they could have come into contact with the sun shade as they attempted to pry out the C-pillar panels. Does this hold any water?
You have to disconnect/connect rear glass defroster when changing the glass and this can only be done from inside the car. Also, the rear window has FM/AM radio antenna build in it and this also needs to be connected inside the car.
If the shop removed the old window without doing the connections properly then the ripped all your wiring.
You have to disconnect/connect rear glass defroster when changing the glass and this can only be done from inside the car. Also, the rear window has FM/AM radio antenna build in it and this also needs to be connected inside the car.
If the shop removed the old window without doing the connections properly then the ripped all your wiring.
Does the radio and defroster work?
Yes, the radio works and so does the defroster. I wanna be able to show they connected the plugs while being physically insider the car. I also see the C-pillar trim is kinda loose which proves my theory. In court, you've got to be convincing with factual info. If I could plant a seed of doubt, then I have a chance.
Yes, the radio works and so does the defroster. I wanna be able to show they connected the plugs while being physically insider the car. I also see the C-pillar trim is kinda loose which proves my theory. In court, you've got to be convincing with factual info. If I could plant a seed of doubt, then I have a chance.
If you remove the C”pillar trim you can see the connections and it is not possible to do these from outside.
I'm back to the rear sun shade issue where it stopped working after glass shop replaced my rear glass. I have a small claims court case against the shop in less than a month. They're arguing they didn't touch the sun shade and as their work was done from outside the vehicle. I suspect the glass defroster plug is located inside the C-pillar where they'd have to remove the side panel to access the receptacle. Can anyone confirm this? I say this because if they tried to remove side panel/trim, they had to do this from inside the car where they could have come into contact with the sun shade as they attempted to pry out the C-pillar panels. Does this hold any water?
My previous posts were about the connections for the rear window electronics and as stated these cannot be done from outside. The C-pillar panel must be removed for access.
But this probably has nothing to do with the shade movement unless they somehow messed up the track where the shade moves. The motor for the shade is under the rear shelf cover and so is the connection for the motor too, at least in my 2010 E550 it is.
Can you hear the motor try to move it at all? If you can’t it may have blown the fuse if the track for the shade is messed up.
Also, is it possible to change rear window without removing the rear self cover? If not, they had to disconnect the shade motor and perhaps simply forgot to reconnect the harness.
My previous posts were about the connections for the rear window electronics and as stated these cannot be done from outside. The C-pillar panel must be removed for access.
But this probably has nothing to do with the shade movement unless they somehow messed up the track where the shade moves. The motor for the shade is under the rear shelf cover and so is the connection for the motor too, at least in my 2010 E550 it is.
Can you hear the motor try to move it at all? If you can’t it may have blown the fuse if the track for the shade is messed up.
Also, is it possible to change rear window without removing the rear self cover? If not, they had to disconnect the shade motor and perhaps simply forgot to reconnect the harness.
Check the fuse.
When this issue first came up, the shade was rising only on one side which told me the motor was functioning fine. The glass shop's argument is they replaced the glass from the outside, so they were not close to the shade. I'm trying to show if they got inside the car to attach power for glass, there was that possibility of them messing up the shade due to proximity of the shade to the glass, it's a long shot, but the shade failed immediately after the glass was installed, and I have no other way to show cause and effect.
I'm also wondering if anyone could provide me with the written steps, PDF, from the Mercedes "Catalog" on the steps to replace the rear glass. Is Konigstieger still around?
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