When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Multiple Warning Instrument Cluster Lights Came On
Hey guys I hope yall doing well.
I have a 2011 Mercedes E350 and one day I started it up and got a whole bunch of warning lights that I will include a picture of. The car was able to start up and I am able to move around and what not but I haven't been driving it as I am scared that it will damage the car further. I am not able to move my seats around, the headlights don't work, the ambient air temperature sensor doesn't work as the fan to cool the radiator is spinning at high RPMS and the instrument cluster can't get a temperature reading of outside, and I can't read the tire pressure.
I have a Carsoft M2 diagnostic tool and ran it, and I got some fault code readings but I am not too sure how to properly assess them as I am a bit of novice when it comes to these things. I will also include pictures of the readings as well. I suspect I could be dealing with an electrical issue potentially? I have seen times where water enters the cabin from the rain which is where my suspicions derive from.
Any help or suggestions would be much appreciated. I'm trying to revive my baby lmao. Thanks! Instrument Cluster Lights Selecting "CENTRAL GATEWAY" on my Diagnostic Tool. Selecting "CENTRAL GATEWAY" on my Diagnostic Tool. Selecting "INSTRUMENT CLUSTER" on my Diagnostic Tool. Selecting "INSTRUMENT CLUSTER" on my Diagnostic Tool. Selecting "CENTRAL GATEWAY" on my Diagnostic Tool.
A bit of an update; I found water and ice in the footwell (I live on the East Coast with freezing temps so that why I have ice). I was able to clean and dry it all up, and cleaned up the ground connections with some sand paper. However, I'm still dealing with the same electrical issue.
How should I proceed further. Any tips or recommendations are welcomed. Thanks!
A bit of an update; I found water and ice in the footwell (I live on the East Coast with freezing temps so that why I have ice). I was able to clean and dry it all up, and cleaned up the ground connections with some sand paper. However, I'm still dealing with the same electrical issue.
How should I proceed further. Any tips or recommendations are welcomed. Thanks!
inside the tray are swampy bus bars... did you inspect them?
door sill bus bars
They likely need attention and tiny connectors as well...
What does your scanner report??
Any missing VIP modules from swampy CAN disruption?
Confirm you disconnected batteries while cleaning your GND Posts, right?
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Jan 27, 2025 at 04:52 PM.
you'll want to get there to help troubleshoot CAN Bus when shorted out... knowing that nothing is Plug-N-Play: whatever you disconnect further disrupts distressed chassis
-- You want to go there with a schematic to know what CAN branch your dealing with.
inside the tray are swampy bus bars... did you inspect them?
No, I just assumed its a plastic covering to protect the wires.
What does your scanner report?? Any missing VIP modules from swampy CAN disruption?
Haven't checked, I just saw that the dash still had the same cluster instrument lights as before but with more errors showing on the computer: ABS ,ESP, SRS warning, etc. Do you think that water could have gotten and froze on the passenger side, and then when I melted it, it effected the electronic components?
Confirm you disconnected batteries while cleaning your GND Posts, right?
Yes, I did.
So just to confirm, there are bus bars within that plastic component that I should check and clean out? Again I assumed that it was just a plastic container holding and protecting all of the wires.
Last edited by highspeedchase; Jan 27, 2025 at 08:22 PM.
you are right footwell has two sides with identical bus bars setup ready for oxidation - Best way to guess right is by either carpet inspection or using a good Launch OBDII scanner.
Driver side is wet.... (passenger side also: not likely both. MB prefers seamping driver side first).
you are right footwell has two sides with identical bus bars setup ready for oxidation - Best way to guess right is by either carpet inspection or using a good Launch OBDII scanner.
Driver side is wet.... (passenger side also: not likely both. MB prefers seamping driver side first).
So you are saying if the driver side is wet, THAN IT IS NOT LIKELY that the passenger side is wet?
So you are saying if the driver side is wet, THAN IT IS NOT LIKELY that the passenger side is wet?
Yes, exactly.
unlikely both sides are wet at once unless it's high tide
Use scanner to assess what modules are disrupted from what bus bar being iced up.
Help Beware : bus-bars slots receive specific modules.
Meaning don't remove all connectors without first numbering their individual position 1234667890. This explains why some slots are empty.
It will work if scrambled but the bus-bar troubleshooting game is played differently.
Here's how: you disconnect the module you want off the bus by reading its position on the schematic -!If uou remove all, then... nothing works so long story short you dont want to not know "who's who".
Number first!!
Colors are indicative of bus name: CAN-B : BRN/RED deals with doors.
You can't mix buses members together.
When in doubt take pictures of what goes where!!
Bus-bar are worthless parts replace if oxidized.
Fragile connectors must be preserved using oily WD40 to help not oxidize into loose connection nightmare.
🤞
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Jan 27, 2025 at 11:02 PM.
you'll want to get there to help troubleshoot CAN Bus when shorted out... knowing that nothing is Plug-N-Play: whatever you disconnect further disrupts distressed chassis
-- You want to go there with a schematic to know what CAN branch your dealing with.
Update: It was the two Bus Bars that was causing the issue. There was corrosion on the pins in the can bus and some on the wire plugs. I bought two new Bars from the Mercedes dealership, plugged them in, and the car works just fine no more errors anymore.
However, I am concerned about the corrosion. I didn't clean the corrosion off of the wires, however the car still works posting no errors. Should I clean off the wires or will my car be okay?
Last edited by highspeedchase; Jan 29, 2025 at 04:18 PM.
Update: It was the two Bus Bars that was causing the issue. There was corrosion on the pins in the can bus and some on the wire plugs. I bought two new Bars from the Mercedes dealership, plugged them in, and the car works just fine no more errors anymore.
However, I am concerned about the corrosion. I didn't clean the corrosion off of the wires, however the car still works posting no errors. Should I clean off the wires or will my car be okay?
the answer is the tiny spriginess of female connectors are not going to remain reliable with corrosion.
What you do with that... is entirely up to you. Know that it can help or hurt the corrosion meaning DISABLE use of your car: no crank, no doors, you name it.
Usually oil protect against oxidation but when the tini-tiny connectors are loose the NO Contact.
You may want to cut out connectors and solder wires or use twist nuts. All same volors together so two bunches... kindo' easy job.
the answer is the tiny spriginess of female connectors are not going to remain reliable with corrosion.
What you do with that... is entirely up to you. Know that it can help or hurt the corrosion meaning DISABLE use of your car: no crank, no doors, you name it.
Usually oil protect against oxidation but when the tini-tiny connectors are loose the NO Contact.
You may want to cut out connectors and solder wires or use twist nuts. All same volors together so two bunches... kindo' easy job.
Personally if I was going to delete the distribution strips, I would use crimp butt connectors, not solder or wire nuts. But that's just me...
You're right, crimps are more professional when available around.
Prevent vibrating undersized conductors (hard to locate failure!) - Zip-tie or tape bundles.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Jan 29, 2025 at 09:26 PM.
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
