Cold Blooded
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Cold Blooded
I have a 2011 W550. I live in the canyons above Denver. It. Is. Cold. Right now.
An issue I have driving down to the flats each morning (and this condition existed prior to the cold snap) is that with all the oil and coolant in the engine and the miles and miles of down hill before any meaningful load is put on the engine, it takes forever to warm up. As in, I can take my daughter to school, and then get most of the way home before it gets up to temp, if it does at all. On the one hand, as previously mentioned, lots of fluids to warm up. On the other hand, that would typically be a sign of a stuck thermostat. On the other other hand, if the thermostat were stuck, I'm fairly certain it would throw a check engine light.
Is there anyone in a similar situation, or just generally in the know, that could weigh in on whether what I'm experiencing here is expected? Thanks.
An issue I have driving down to the flats each morning (and this condition existed prior to the cold snap) is that with all the oil and coolant in the engine and the miles and miles of down hill before any meaningful load is put on the engine, it takes forever to warm up. As in, I can take my daughter to school, and then get most of the way home before it gets up to temp, if it does at all. On the one hand, as previously mentioned, lots of fluids to warm up. On the other hand, that would typically be a sign of a stuck thermostat. On the other other hand, if the thermostat were stuck, I'm fairly certain it would throw a check engine light.
Is there anyone in a similar situation, or just generally in the know, that could weigh in on whether what I'm experiencing here is expected? Thanks.
Last edited by spectre6000; Jan 23, 2025 at 08:58 AM.
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As far as I know, everything is rock stock save a carbon fiber spoiler on the trunk lid courtesy of PO that I haven't removed yet (and may not, it's sort of growing on me...). Still under extended warranty.
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From: Fleriduh
W212 E63S Wagon - GSL580 - E63 - E350 - C300
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Thanks for the heads up, but that's not what I'm after here. I'm still under warranty, and if the engine gets roached due to something like that, I get a free engine. I have other cars to replace this one in the daily rotation if that needs to happen. I'll check in for things like that in a year or so as the warranty approaches EOL if I haven't already sold the car on.
Anyone have any insight on the extended warm up time?
Anyone have any insight on the extended warm up time?
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From: Baltimore County, MD
'13 s212 63 p30. '06 LX470
Yes, these vehicles can take some time to warm up with no load. The suggestion of the oil solenoid was because that has been found to not only protect the engine and its bores, but help with warming of the oil. It sets a soft code, because mb says it’s nothing to worry about, and most importantly could be plugged right back in before any service. Without getting into it you get better, oiling pressure from the start, thereby warming the oil more quickly, plus a host of other positives.
The best suggestion here might be to put some load on your engine by manually downshifting a gear or two from your normal driving gear. A lower gear with better load/ higher rpm will also help with low speed pre-ignition events.
The best suggestion here might be to put some load on your engine by manually downshifting a gear or two from your normal driving gear. A lower gear with better load/ higher rpm will also help with low speed pre-ignition events.
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W212 E63S Wagon - GSL580 - E63 - E350 - C300
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Yes, these vehicles can take some time to warm up with no load. The suggestion of the oil solenoid was because that has been found to not only protect the engine and its bores, but help with warming of the oil. It sets a soft code, because mb says it’s nothing to worry about, and most importantly could be plugged right back in before any service. Without getting into it you get better, oiling pressure from the start, thereby warming the oil more quickly, plus a host of other positives.
The best suggestion here might be to put some load on your engine by manually downshifting a gear or two from your normal driving gear. A lower gear with better load/ higher rpm will also help with low speed pre-ignition events.
The best suggestion here might be to put some load on your engine by manually downshifting a gear or two from your normal driving gear. A lower gear with better load/ higher rpm will also help with low speed pre-ignition events.
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19 GLA45, 86 560SL, former: 14 E550 4Matic, 09 E350 4Matic, 83 240D manual, 78 450SLC, 81 500SLC
I believe my E550 actually takes _longer_ to warm up after disabling the OPR solenoid.
And while it warms up super fast when it's not negative temperatures outside, it also takes quite a while to get to temp when very cold. I don't have any downhill driving, which would make it a lot worse, but I can let the engine warm for 3-4 minutes, then drive between 1k and 1.5k until the needle starts reading on the gauge, keep it below 2k on the interstate while it continues warming up, and arrive at my destination 15 minutes later and still not be fully at temp.
It's crazy when you think about how much heat these engines generate, but there is a ton of oil and coolant, as well as a very large engine block to get to temp as well.
And while it warms up super fast when it's not negative temperatures outside, it also takes quite a while to get to temp when very cold. I don't have any downhill driving, which would make it a lot worse, but I can let the engine warm for 3-4 minutes, then drive between 1k and 1.5k until the needle starts reading on the gauge, keep it below 2k on the interstate while it continues warming up, and arrive at my destination 15 minutes later and still not be fully at temp.
It's crazy when you think about how much heat these engines generate, but there is a ton of oil and coolant, as well as a very large engine block to get to temp as well.
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I believe my E550 actually takes _longer_ to warm up after disabling the OPR solenoid.
And while it warms up super fast when it's not negative temperatures outside, it also takes quite a while to get to temp when very cold. I don't have any downhill driving, which would make it a lot worse, but I can let the engine warm for 3-4 minutes, then drive between 1k and 1.5k until the needle starts reading on the gauge, keep it below 2k on the interstate while it continues warming up, and arrive at my destination 15 minutes later and still not be fully at temp.
It's crazy when you think about how much heat these engines generate, but there is a ton of oil and coolant, as well as a very large engine block to get to temp as well.
And while it warms up super fast when it's not negative temperatures outside, it also takes quite a while to get to temp when very cold. I don't have any downhill driving, which would make it a lot worse, but I can let the engine warm for 3-4 minutes, then drive between 1k and 1.5k until the needle starts reading on the gauge, keep it below 2k on the interstate while it continues warming up, and arrive at my destination 15 minutes later and still not be fully at temp.
It's crazy when you think about how much heat these engines generate, but there is a ton of oil and coolant, as well as a very large engine block to get to temp as well.
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'13 s212 63 p30. '06 LX470
Hmmm interesting, I guess it depends on the engine, thank you for mentioning it so OP doesn't do this mod if it doesn't benefit them. For my case, for example the M276 (V6) engine the oil pump solenoid mod significantly reduced engine oil heating up time for me. Your mileage may vary.
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It’s a winter thing with all of the coolers and circuits. This has been the case for me each winter over the past six years regardless of oil used or solenoid mod. This is why some winter climate countries cars get auto flaps in front of their radiators similar to a trucker using cardboard or the equivalent in front to help the truck heat up in frigid temperatures. M157
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From: Fleriduh
W212 E63S Wagon - GSL580 - E63 - E350 - C300
Whose winter? Where I am now people are going nutty and buying all the milk and eggs because it snowed 200 miles north of us and we might, maybe just maybe get down to 32F out......when I was in Chicago, three weeks of -5F was the norm....
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Sorry, should had clarified, the M276 in my car raise temperatures quicker in both winter and summer after unplugging the oil pump solenoid, this is comparing 30c and -10c.
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2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
... if it does at all. On the one hand, as previously mentioned, lots of fluids to warm up. On the other hand, that would typically be a sign of a stuck thermostat. On the other other hand, if the thermostat were stuck, I'm fairly certain it would throw a check engine light.
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From: Chicago
19 GLA45, 86 560SL, former: 14 E550 4Matic, 09 E350 4Matic, 83 240D manual, 78 450SLC, 81 500SLC
Hmmm interesting, I guess it depends on the engine, thank you for mentioning it so OP doesn't do this mod if it doesn't benefit them. For my case, for example the M276 (V6) engine the oil pump solenoid mod significantly reduced engine oil heating up time for me. Your mileage may vary.
The engine temp gauge probe is measuring the coolant temp, right?
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19 GLA45, 86 560SL, former: 14 E550 4Matic, 09 E350 4Matic, 83 240D manual, 78 450SLC, 81 500SLC
On my side, I watched the heating times on this car pre-OPR solenoid disable at temps from about 25F/-4C to 94F/35C and post-OPR solenoid disable, probably between -15F/-26C to about 55F/13C. But I don't have actual logged data unfortunately.
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19 GLA45, 86 560SL, former: 14 E550 4Matic, 09 E350 4Matic, 83 240D manual, 78 450SLC, 81 500SLC
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Interesting, that said, the coolant gauge is doctored though.
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2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
It is. The mechanical gauge is only to make the driver feel good. But my coolant is at "operating" temperature long before the oil is at 80°C/176°F. Also, the coolant temp in the AMG display is not the same if you measure with a scan tool. I think I found it was 10°-15°F difference. It may be doctored, as well. Most people aren't like us and would freak out if they saw what was really happening.
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19 GLA45, 86 560SL, former: 14 E550 4Matic, 09 E350 4Matic, 83 240D manual, 78 450SLC, 81 500SLC
Yeah, I'm aware of that. However, when sweeping up from below normal temp to normal temp, it will first go into the normal temp position at the same temperature (when it crosses the minimum temp for the normal temp range).
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From: Chicago
19 GLA45, 86 560SL, former: 14 E550 4Matic, 09 E350 4Matic, 83 240D manual, 78 450SLC, 81 500SLC
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It is. The mechanical gauge is only to make the driver feel good. But my coolant is at "operating" temperature long before the oil is at 80°C/176°F. Also, the coolant temp in the AMG display is not the same if you measure with a scan tool. I think I found it was 10°-15°F difference. It may be doctored, as well. Most people aren't like us and would freak out if they saw what was really happening.
