Level Calibration
Level Calibration
I attempted to calibrate the level on my 2011 E550 because the right side of the car is lower than the left. already replaced the two front airmatic struts on front. When looking at the scanner the right rear is at -40 and won’t come up any no matter how many times I push the f10 button and when I exit the calibration it says it was not successful. Now every time I start the car the malfunction warning comes on the dash and the button that raises the car won’t wrk now either. Please help
Last edited by E5504me; Feb 11, 2025 at 08:11 PM.
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W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
I attempted to calibrate the level on my 2011 E550 because the right side of the car is lower than the left. already replaced the two front airmatic struts on front. When looking at the scanner the right rear is at -40 and won’t come up any no matter how many times I push the f10 button and when I exit the calibration it says it was not successful. Now every time I start the car the malfunction warning comes on the dash and the button that raises the car won’t wrk now either. Please help
Replace by pair or all at once.
(even non-Airmatic Facelift steel coil springs feature a height sensor on the rear axle, driver side!! to dial the LED headlights height)
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Feb 11, 2025 at 08:21 PM.
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2010 E550, 273 Engine: 2012 S550, 278 Engine
I attempted to calibrate the level on my 2011 E550 because the right side of the car is lower than the left. already replaced the two front airmatic struts on front. When looking at the scanner the right rear is at -40 and won’t come up any no matter how many times I push the f10 button and when I exit the calibration it says it was not successful. Now every time I start the car the malfunction warning comes on the dash and the button that raises the car won’t wrk now either. Please help
If it is not down then you have a sensor reading issue, i.e., your sensor arms probably are broken, and the reading does not change when you press that f10 trying to raise the car. If the car raises up, that you should be able to see or at least measure, then the Airmatic works pumping air in the spring and the problem is sensor is not seeing the height change.
If the car does not raise up and the compressor runs you have either leaking air spring or the solenoid valve does not work for the right rear spring.
Airmatic malfunction means the air compressor is not able to raise the car in certain time and it shuts down for protection of the compressor. This means either the compressor is bad or the air spring has a big air leak or the solenoid valve for that spring does not open (very rare problem).
My guess is you have so a big leak that the compressor cannot supply enough air volume to raise car up and you probably had this problem for some time and did not act on it until the leak got so bad you get malfunction that does not clear, right?
The right side was only slightly down and no malfunction message unless I got on interstate. I ran a scan and got 3 codes c156E00, C155664, C157300. I then went into the level calibration of my Thinkscan 689BT and was going to make an initial adjustment to 0 on all 4 wheels. All went to 0 except right rear which would not move from 38-40. The right wheel is almost on the fender now and I would be happy if it went back to the way it was until i was able to check for visual leaks.
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'13 s212 63 p30. '06 LX470
Do you hear a hiss from that corner during activation. Is air traveling towards that shock? There is only one sensor in the rear which controls both sides. A single rear corner sag would lead me to a valve block, line, or the airbag.
Can your computer do a proper diagnosis of the system? If not, find someone with xentry to check pressures and switch function. That you replaced the front but not the back would lead me to the bag first imo. I chased something similar on a used e55 that was slightly low on the right rear but never sagged. After 20k miles the car sagged after sitting a few days and it was time to replace the shocks. Once I replaced the bags, all was dead on and it calibrated perfectly.
Can your computer do a proper diagnosis of the system? If not, find someone with xentry to check pressures and switch function. That you replaced the front but not the back would lead me to the bag first imo. I chased something similar on a used e55 that was slightly low on the right rear but never sagged. After 20k miles the car sagged after sitting a few days and it was time to replace the shocks. Once I replaced the bags, all was dead on and it calibrated perfectly.
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2010 E550, 273 Engine: 2012 S550, 278 Engine
Do you hear a hiss from that corner during activation. Is air traveling towards that shock? There is only one sensor in the rear which controls both sides. A single rear corner sag would lead me to a valve block, line, or the airbag.
Can your computer do a proper diagnosis of the system? If not, find someone with xentry to check pressures and switch function. That you replaced the front but not the back would lead me to the bag first imo. I chased something similar on a used e55 that was slightly low on the right rear but never sagged. After 20k miles the car sagged after sitting a few days and it was time to replace the shocks. Once I replaced the bags, all was dead on and it calibrated perfectly.
Can your computer do a proper diagnosis of the system? If not, find someone with xentry to check pressures and switch function. That you replaced the front but not the back would lead me to the bag first imo. I chased something similar on a used e55 that was slightly low on the right rear but never sagged. After 20k miles the car sagged after sitting a few days and it was time to replace the shocks. Once I replaced the bags, all was dead on and it calibrated perfectly.
It is the S-class that has only one sensor for the rear axle, which I also have.
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2010 E550, 273 Engine: 2012 S550, 278 Engine
That is a good idea. You can raise the low RR and if all works it will be the LR that moves and if so then you know air is coming in and the valve works. This would point to a bad leak in the RR spring, so bad the compressor cannot keep up with it.
Rear springs are cheap and easy to change, I did mine.
Rear springs are cheap and easy to change, I did mine.
If it turns out to be the rear springs What brand is recommended. The previous owner replaced the rear springs, compressor and valve block replaced by the dealer 2 1/2 years ago so I’m thinking if that’s all the dealer brand is good for doe the brand really matter..
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2010 E550, 273 Engine: 2012 S550, 278 Engine
I have since had lots of trouble with Arnott struts on my S550 and cannot trust their quality anymore for the struts but the rear springs I would still buy.
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'13 s212 63 p30. '06 LX470
op, have you checked the sensors yet? Or unplugged, cleaned and tried again?


