E-Class (W212) 2010 - 2016: E 350, E 550
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Level Calibration

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Old Feb 11, 2025 | 08:04 PM
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Level Calibration

I attempted to calibrate the level on my 2011 E550 because the right side of the car is lower than the left. already replaced the two front airmatic struts on front. When looking at the scanner the right rear is at -40 and won’t come up any no matter how many times I push the f10 button and when I exit the calibration it says it was not successful. Now every time I start the car the malfunction warning comes on the dash and the button that raises the car won’t wrk now either. Please help

Last edited by E5504me; Feb 11, 2025 at 08:11 PM.
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Old Feb 11, 2025 | 08:18 PM
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Originally Posted by E5504me
I attempted to calibrate the level on my 2011 E550 because the right side of the car is lower than the left. already replaced the two front airmatic struts on front. When looking at the scanner the right rear is at -40 and won’t come up any no matter how many times I push the f10 button and when I exit the calibration it says it was not successful. Now every time I start the car the malfunction warning comes on the dash and the button that raises the car won’t wrk now either. Please help
the axle height sensors are built to fail from basic rust.
Replace by pair or all at once.

(even non-Airmatic Facelift steel coil springs feature a height sensor on the rear axle, driver side!! to dial the LED headlights height)

Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Feb 11, 2025 at 08:21 PM.
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Old Feb 11, 2025 | 08:35 PM
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Originally Posted by CaliBenzDriver
the axle height sensors are built to fail from basic rust.
Replace by pair or all at once.

(even non-Airmatic Facelift steel coil springs feature a height sensor on the rear axle, driver side!! to dial the LED headlights height)
That is depressing...
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Old Feb 11, 2025 | 09:53 PM
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Originally Posted by E5504me
I attempted to calibrate the level on my 2011 E550 because the right side of the car is lower than the left. already replaced the two front airmatic struts on front. When looking at the scanner the right rear is at -40 and won’t come up any no matter how many times I push the f10 button and when I exit the calibration it says it was not successful. Now every time I start the car the malfunction warning comes on the dash and the button that raises the car won’t wrk now either. Please help
The first thing is: Is the right rear really -40mm? You should see it way down if it really is.

If it is not down then you have a sensor reading issue, i.e., your sensor arms probably are broken, and the reading does not change when you press that f10 trying to raise the car. If the car raises up, that you should be able to see or at least measure, then the Airmatic works pumping air in the spring and the problem is sensor is not seeing the height change.

If the car does not raise up and the compressor runs you have either leaking air spring or the solenoid valve does not work for the right rear spring.

Airmatic malfunction means the air compressor is not able to raise the car in certain time and it shuts down for protection of the compressor. This means either the compressor is bad or the air spring has a big air leak or the solenoid valve for that spring does not open (very rare problem).

My guess is you have so a big leak that the compressor cannot supply enough air volume to raise car up and you probably had this problem for some time and did not act on it until the leak got so bad you get malfunction that does not clear, right?
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Old Feb 12, 2025 | 08:40 AM
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The right side was only slightly down and no malfunction message unless I got on interstate. I ran a scan and got 3 codes c156E00, C155664, C157300. I then went into the level calibration of my Thinkscan 689BT and was going to make an initial adjustment to 0 on all 4 wheels. All went to 0 except right rear which would not move from 38-40. The right wheel is almost on the fender now and I would be happy if it went back to the way it was until i was able to check for visual leaks.
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Old Feb 12, 2025 | 09:09 AM
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Do you hear a hiss from that corner during activation. Is air traveling towards that shock? There is only one sensor in the rear which controls both sides. A single rear corner sag would lead me to a valve block, line, or the airbag.

Can your computer do a proper diagnosis of the system? If not, find someone with xentry to check pressures and switch function. That you replaced the front but not the back would lead me to the bag first imo. I chased something similar on a used e55 that was slightly low on the right rear but never sagged. After 20k miles the car sagged after sitting a few days and it was time to replace the shocks. Once I replaced the bags, all was dead on and it calibrated perfectly.
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Old Feb 12, 2025 | 09:19 AM
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I was thinking about switching the airlines RR and LR on the block and see if the problem goes to the left side
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Old Feb 12, 2025 | 10:06 AM
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I was thinking about swapping the air lines RR and LR on the block.
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Old Feb 12, 2025 | 11:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Baltistyle
Do you hear a hiss from that corner during activation. Is air traveling towards that shock? There is only one sensor in the rear which controls both sides. A single rear corner sag would lead me to a valve block, line, or the airbag.

Can your computer do a proper diagnosis of the system? If not, find someone with xentry to check pressures and switch function. That you replaced the front but not the back would lead me to the bag first imo. I chased something similar on a used e55 that was slightly low on the right rear but never sagged. After 20k miles the car sagged after sitting a few days and it was time to replace the shocks. Once I replaced the bags, all was dead on and it calibrated perfectly.
I have 2010 E550, which I believe is exactly the same build for the Airmatic and it has four sensors, i.e., each wheel has its own sensor.
It is the S-class that has only one sensor for the rear axle, which I also have.
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Old Feb 12, 2025 | 11:15 PM
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Originally Posted by E5504me
I was thinking about swapping the air lines RR and LR on the block.
That is a good idea. You can raise the low RR and if all works it will be the LR that moves and if so then you know air is coming in and the valve works. This would point to a bad leak in the RR spring, so bad the compressor cannot keep up with it.

Rear springs are cheap and easy to change, I did mine.
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Old Feb 13, 2025 | 08:42 AM
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If it turns out to be the rear springs What brand is recommended. The previous owner replaced the rear springs, compressor and valve block replaced by the dealer 2 1/2 years ago so I’m thinking if that’s all the dealer brand is good for doe the brand really matter..
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Old Feb 15, 2025 | 01:39 AM
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Originally Posted by E5504me
If it turns out to be the rear springs What brand is recommended. The previous owner replaced the rear springs, compressor and valve block replaced by the dealer 2 1/2 years ago so I’m thinking if that’s all the dealer brand is good for doe the brand really matter..
I replaced mine with Arnott. Rear springs are just springs so they are very simple. Arnott springs were about $350/piece and they have been fine for very long time now.

I have since had lots of trouble with Arnott struts on my S550 and cannot trust their quality anymore for the struts but the rear springs I would still buy.
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Old Feb 15, 2025 | 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Arrie
I have 2010 E550, which I believe is exactly the same build for the Airmatic and it has four sensors, i.e., each wheel has its own sensor.
It is the S-class that has only one sensor for the rear axle, which I also have.
gotcha I stand corrected. I did a quick look and it looks like some of these classes do use one sensor in the rear. My e55 as well as s55 and it looks like most up till 09.

op, have you checked the sensors yet? Or unplugged, cleaned and tried again?
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Old Feb 17, 2025 | 09:37 AM
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I’ll try that next. Thanks for all the info. Is there a recommendation on the level calibration numbers as well as the inclination angles for front and rear 2011 e550 rear wheel drive. Thanks
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