M276 3.0 TT - PCV and oil in turbo inlet
However, I recently started to experience oil consumption, roughly 7k miles into the 10k mile change interval. Have had to add roughly a quart since last oil change. Started digging into this and found oil in the passenger side turbo inlet.
My suspicion is that the PCV system is letting through more oil than it should. However, appears to be a pretty significant job to replace it all.
Question: Is it worth trying to just change the oil drip pan and/or separator at the rear right of the engine to see if that fixes it? Or am I better off replacing the entire PCV?
Also, anyone who happen to have workshop guides for this job?
@S-Prihadi
Thanks!




Crankcase pressure is causing this regardless of more efficient turbo PCV separator.
Replace PCV + HPFP/roller for good measure but it won't reduce a lot, perhaps 30% less. Lets see this get back to 1/2 quart.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; May 29, 2025 at 10:48 PM.
Crankcase pressure is causing this regardless of more efficient turbo PCV separator.
Replace PCV + HPFP/roller for good measure but it won't reduce a lot, perhaps 30% less. Lets see this get back to 1/2 quart.




PCV needs service and so does Bosch HPFP + roller bearing.... so got to bite the bullet with realistic expectations.
Shorter oil intervals are adviseable on all hot engines.
Master Surya knows everything about your engine type.

Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; May 30, 2025 at 01:18 AM.




M276 3.0 Turbo has 2nd stage extra fine oil separator, unlike M276 3.5 NA.
The one below , middle long slim box shape I labeled B.
.
M276 3.5NA only have label A as PCV.
C pipe goes to RIGHT BANK TURBO only, for you it is passenger side.
That is why you are seeing oil at RIGHT BANK turbo only ( correct ?) and not LEFT BANK turbo too.
Aside from possible oil sealing leak at the turbo itself, I am sure it is the PCV system already aging.
For turbo oil leak see this post : https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...o-complex.html
D pipe goes to dual check valve number #71 in above animation picture.
This post explains how D the dual check valve works and its importance : https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...leak-path.html
and you will get the dual check valve when you buy below or the entire PCV system in first sceen capture, including oil drip pan.
Replace all these : Item 3 is the same as above photo, where you get the dual valve
To test your PCV system, get this equivalent instrument and read this post :
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...sure-test.html
and read this for extra information :
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...cuum-pump.html
This is what I use, AZ its the OE of the instrument :
You can choose others : Use the search in Amazon as DIGITAL MANOMETER
Example :
.
PCV system will fail overtime, guaranteed 100%.
My car is only now at 43,000KM but I have all the PCV parts ready to replace this year or next year.
The fine oil separator has check valve too.
.
Item 2
So, what is your plan ?
Last edited by S-Prihadi; May 29, 2025 at 11:38 PM. Reason: typo




All blue 3m masking tape used on removed connectors or hose. This way you will not dirty them and they are markers for what is disconnected.
Black on black is easy to miss, example sensor connectors.
The only dumb-azz MB did was to NOT have a small interconnector for AC compressor valve I marked red, but MB is kind enough to have long wires,
thus you can lift entire wire assy plastic box and ECM like below :
On BANK 1 or RIGHT BANK, there is an interconnector, that helps. Big grey to black connector.
.
-----------
2022 archive, while doing intake valves cleaning. You best check yours too.
The boxy fine oil separator is under these two intake manifold plastic adapters. Orange circle I mnarked.
.
Intake valve cleaning is you want to read : Here also explains the wire to the AC compressor ......why I hate it so much. I plan to install my own interconnector.
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...eaning-p2.html
Have fun.........
.
Last edited by S-Prihadi; May 30, 2025 at 01:40 AM.




Do remember that Mercedes WIS often goes far out removing more stuff than necessary, visual inspect what you need and I will get more WIS.
I personally have not remove my centrifuge ( Bank 1 rear PCV system ), but has removed my HP fuel pump.
HP fuel pump shield you must remove to access centrifuge which I label #18
.
The HP fuel pump plastic shield and its metal bracket
.
I found my old photo of the fine oil separator box thingy
It is not a fun DIY to remove complete PCV of M276 3.0 Turbo
Azz view of our engine other components
.
Last edited by S-Prihadi; May 30, 2025 at 01:36 AM. Reason: ADD INFO
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I need to review and digest all the information and come up with a plan of attack. Definitely not a quick and easy DYI, but seems doable with some good planning.
how did you know it was failing?! How did you test it ..
my intake manifold pressure is 368 hpa , range (445-555hpa).. no codes.. I can feel the engine has low performance.. other than that nothing
However, I recently started to experience oil consumption, roughly 7k miles into the 10k mile change interval. Have had to add roughly a quart since last oil change. Started digging into this and found oil in the passenger side turbo inlet.
My suspicion is that the PCV system is letting through more oil than it should. However, appears to be a pretty significant job to replace it all.
Question: Is it worth trying to just change the oil drip pan and/or separator at the rear right of the engine to see if that fixes it? Or am I better off replacing the entire PCV?
Also, anyone who happen to have workshop guides for this job?
Thanks!








