I been waiting for such case study, and found it today :

Too bad I do not understand Mandarin and no subtitle, but the DTC is clear and there is a TSB on it for W166 and W292 chassis,
but my concern is the engine model, my engine.

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...54013-9999.pdf



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I worry of the joint/seam on the plastic which is the suction pipe itself. Its o-ring FOR sure will harden and fail over time.





If anyone understand Mandarin, perhaps the techy in the video explained which part of the oil pan aka suction pipe had a cracked producing the air leak.
I worry abut the seams.


I already got my new oil pan last year as part of my 10th year refresh plan, planning to replace it this year....but still figuring out of to do it safely without engine out and do other related preventive too,
like oil cooler gasket replacement etc etc...the list goes on long like a train

 

BTW, M276.9xx 3.5 NA uses the same oil pan-suction pipe as M276.8xx, for rear wheel drive model.



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So we all will have the same issue eventually.

I have discussed this a long time ago, back in 2023
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...brication.html

 

Some samples of oil pressure rise vs time , to its maximum potential based on RPM and oil temperature.

Engine Oil Temperature is the metric to inch coversion adapter/fitting metal skin temperature of the oil sensing port.
Engine Oil Temperature, Oil cooler Inlet is actually engine's metal oil pan outside skin temperature.



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I am still hunting down unique slow-ness of oil pressure built up, when engine shut down is only 3-4 hours after a normal full operating temperature use...and then I start the engine.
The time to full oil pressure could be up to 6 seconds. Usually 5 seconds is max, counted at 5hz and engine RPM already hit 1,300RPM for 0.2 second.


Here is the 4 hour engine kill data upon starting.



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1.4 second to 7.8 seconds or 6.4 seconds is way too long. Worse case I have seen a week long engine kill would be approx 4ish seconds oilpressure build up.
The 1.2 to 3.6 seconds zone is what does not make sense, that is a pressure rise and then down, albeit very small 0.86 PSI at 1.8 second , it should not be at 0.12PSI at 3.6 second.

This is not a glitch. I have seen this a few times on my log, when and if engine shut down is 3-4 hours after a drive, and I started the engine again.

 

Are you actually triggering codes? Where is the sensor location you’re tapping oil pressure from?
Heads or near oil pump?

There is significant delay in oil getting to top end after long pause restart or cold starts, remember all the check ***** we’ve been talking about?
I’ve seen engines on engine run in stands, that take up to 20 sec to get oil circulation to the top end!

Run in stands are not Dynos, (at least the run in stands I’m talking about). They spin the engines up via electric motor attached to back of crank (no ignition or fuel,) to test things like oil circulation and other checks like compression. After new engine designs or rebuilds. You can learn a lot by just spinning an engine up and having the ability to run it without spark plugs and valve covers. You can literally see the oil oooze out of the top end when it finally reaches it. Of course engine/oiling system design plays a huge part in this too. (Oh and Don’t bother googling engine run in stands you’ll just see a bunch of cheap stands designed to run your engine on a stand, this is a different machine. I think I still have blueprints somewhere of one that was designed by another engineer.)


Don’t chase your tail if your car isn’t triggering codes, see if you can get another car to sample (or someone else to cross check) to see if this is happening to their engine or if you truly have a problem….

Good Luck

edit: here you go found one:

 

No, I do not have any codes.
Why I posted this subject is because I try to keep finding database on how crucial oil carrying but plastic parts can and will fail overtime in ways we usually
don't worry when it was still using full metal instead of plastic.
Metal gasket replaced by o-ring is another fear factor for me...if it relates to handling hot engine oil.

This plastic baffle + suction pipe combo is not like say a round pipe, but square shape with seams.

If there a TSB issued, that meant the case have occured often enough to warrant a TSB.



Sure it is sad that modern MB engines , most of them has no oil pressure sensor and gauge anymore to actually see how long is the so called delay.

So the 1st video I linked on why the baffle+oil suction pipe combo was replaced, it has another part where the oil pressure delay was tested, find below :

Mercedes benz m276 engine,fault code P054C00 and P054A00,oil suction pipe issue


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My preventive maintenance regime is by 10-12 years , all rubber hoses, o-rings, plastic hoses or pipes, that carry engine and tranny oil, coolant and brake fluid and fuel, should be replaced.
The only component I have not bought is the engine coolant radiator, all others I have replaced some last year and this year more will be replaced.
I like keeping my car in "brand-new" mechanical status and expect zero breakdown.

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My oil pressure sensor is located where MB reads oil pressure mechanically for oil pressure check.



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This port is after the oil filter ( by oil flow )



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I am just curious on why mid hot temperature like 60C coolant temp and oil temp seems to produce slowest pressure rise to peak.
Very hot as in 100C coolant/oil and COLD ( my COLD is 28C at best in town and 18C if I go to the mountain ) is fast enough for pressure build up.

 

The same problem I have with my M276 W212 E400 . But on mine the cam adjusters are rattling until the pressure builds up , and I changed all 4 of them . I ordered a new oil pump , and oil suction pipes with o-rings and I will see the results.

 

It's weird that 4x new locked VVT Gears rattle until oil pressure has time to build up.
Are the VVT oil valve screens clean ?
You sure its not tensioners?

 

I installed new chain tensioners OEM , and all cam adjusters but the adjusters are not OEM i tried the Kolbenschmidt adjusters but I think they are bad . I ordered from Russia reinforced cam adjuster repair kit and I will repair my original cam adjusters and I will see . They should not rattle even without oil pressure correct ?

 

If you can wait 3 weeks, repair your old VVT complete with oil control valve at MEHENKER.
Read post #6 https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...ml#post9185906
Its a safer bet

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