I replaced my rear parking brake shoes while installing new pads and rotors all the way around.

The one thing that was kind of akward was the adjustment of the parking brake shoes. The WIS manual says to turn adjustment star wheel until rotors touch pad, then loosen 10 turns. The e-brake didn't hold at just touching or loosening 10 turns. So there must be a cable adjustment.
However, the manual also states to find where the shoes start touching and and where they lock the rotor. In my instance 20 clicks to touch and 40 turns to lock up. I backed the adjustment down to 30 clicks. The parking brake pedal engagement feels good with better resistance than before, but I'm worrying that there is 20 clicks of adjustment in excess of what the manual says. Should I be worrying about the amount of touching of the e-brake shoe to the rotor? It really didn't seem significant... The only way to really adjust the star wheel is with the rotor off.

The e-brake shoes really should not wear out during normal use. They are static brake, no wear.

I bet the long soft-steel cable acts as an elastic that stretches under tension... to require adjustment of (shoes + cable)

Were your old shoes worned down ??

I believe shoes adjustment is done with drums ON. Touching then back-down x-many clicks to prevent wear & heat.

The car has 65,000 miles has been well maintained by previous owner. Original rear e-brake shoes were fine as well. However, all the rotors were the original and with replacing the rotors, I wanted a matching surface which is why I replaced the shoes. Just taking a line from S-Prihadi as I want to make sure things work well. I also don't have a machine to check the force of the friction other than common sense (I hope). There really isn't a way to adjust the star wheel, as the only hole on the rotor is the hole for the lug nuts.
I do think that stretching of the cable(s) has occured. I'm not having any issues, but will pull the rotor and check after break in.
Thanks for your reply.

Yes that threaded hole for the wheel bolt is where you can adjust the STAR when the rotor already installed.

You Wrote : I replaced my rear parking brake shoes while installing new pads and rotors all the way around.
This is the best thing you can do, to get the best virgin friction surface.

The key is, brake rotor should never be warm from stand by ( un-used) parking brake .
The parking brake pad touching the inner rotor surface is very very mild in stand by mode ( un-used ).
The MB original parking brake pad is thick and rough, it bites well within 75% of maximum click on the leg parking brake pedal.

Spinning the rear wheel by hand, you can sense/feel the parking brake shoe engagement, better if no rear caliper brake pad installed, so 100% friction is from parking brake pad.


My own learning , see if this can help you set the parking brake properly :


Not parking brake, but rear caliper piston material.
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...e-plastic.html

New rotor is best, more so for parking brake, which is always very rusty usually.
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...ave-agree.html


Parking brake shoe set, genuine MB
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...t-awesome.html

Heat spread on rotor
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...ly-spread.html

I use brembo rotor and piston caliper seal kit and new piston.
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...it-brembo.html
and
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...indonesia.html


Good luck........

All great comments and past research. I drove the car about 30 minutes this morning and stopped and got out and touched the rear rotor with my bare hand where the shoes contact on the inside - not even warm, which was a good sign. I was worried that the shoes were adjusted too far. E brake Pedal feel is good and firm to about 75% of its travel.

The insight given (or over given) by you pros is invaluable for a first timer understanding the function of even this simple system. It even becomes clearer when diving into it and recognizing all the pieces involved.


Thank you.