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I was getting a "front" tire pressure warning last week and I spent some time over the weekend and failed to get rid of it. The warning says to refer to the recommended psi inside the gas cap. I have 21" wheels and the tires recommend 40psi. The sticker inside the door says 44psi. The sticker inside the gas cap says 39-44psi. Over the weekend I adjusted the psi anywhere from 36-44psi and am still getting the warning light. If I remember correctly, I think the original psi was around 44 before I got the warning light, but not totally sure. Which makes me think, why would I want to run 44psi when the tire says 40psi? Any recommendations, or anyone running 21" wheels can you tell me what your current tire pressure is for you fronts tires? Thanks!
2019 E 450, 2016 E350 4matic (retired), 2018 Ford Edge Sport, 2008 Porsche Boxster
Originally Posted by Rick_H
I was getting a "front" tire pressure warning last week and I spent some time over the weekend and failed to get rid of it. The warning says to refer to the recommended psi inside the gas cap. I have 21" wheels and the tires recommend 40psi. The sticker inside the door says 44psi. The sticker inside the gas cap says 39-44psi. Over the weekend I adjusted the psi anywhere from 36-44psi and am still getting the warning light. If I remember correctly, I think the original psi was around 44 before I got the warning light, but not totally sure. Which makes me think, why would I want to run 44psi when the tire says 40psi? Any recommendations, or anyone running 21" wheels can you tell me what your current tire pressure is for you fronts tires? Thanks!
The PSI on the gas flap is for cold tire pressure and should be used. This has been discussed in numerous threads. After adjusting the tire pressure as per the cap, reset the tire pressure. Your warning light should then go out.
I was getting a "front" tire pressure warning last week and I spent some time over the weekend and failed to get rid of it. The warning says to refer to the recommended psi inside the gas cap. I have 21" wheels and the tires recommend 40psi. The sticker inside the door says 44psi. The sticker inside the gas cap says 39-44psi. Over the weekend I adjusted the psi anywhere from 36-44psi and am still getting the warning light. If I remember correctly, I think the original psi was around 44 before I got the warning light, but not totally sure. Which makes me think, why would I want to run 44psi when the tire says 40psi? Any recommendations, or anyone running 21" wheels can you tell me what your current tire pressure is for you fronts tires? Thanks!
You go by the fuel tank sticker...and from there, assuming you are not on Run Flats (ditch em if you are :-) ....I go to the high end to protect my rims.
2019 E 450, 2016 E350 4matic (retired), 2018 Ford Edge Sport, 2008 Porsche Boxster
Originally Posted by OldManAndHisCar
You go by the fuel tank sticker...and from there, assuming you are not on Run Flats (ditch em if you are :-) ....I go to the high end to protect my rims.
To add to what has already been said, the tires do not have a "recommended" tire pressure on them. At least I've never seen one that does. What is on the physical tires is the max pressure. If the gas tank flap is saying a higher pressure than the max pressure of the actual tire something is wrong. Are you saying that the tires themselves have a max pressure of 40psi? Seems pretty low for a max psi of a tire.
2019 E 450, 2016 E350 4matic (retired), 2018 Ford Edge Sport, 2008 Porsche Boxster
Originally Posted by L1Wolf
To add to what has already been said, the tires do not have a "recommended" tire pressure on them. At least I've never seen one that does. What is on the physical tires is the max pressure. If the gas tank flap is saying a higher pressure than the max pressure of the actual tire something is wrong. Are you saying that the tires themselves have a max pressure of 40psi? Seems pretty low for a max psi of a tire.
You are correct: there is only a max pressure on the tire, not a recommended pressure.
The same tire can often be found on different vehicles so a "recommended" pressure is not possible, as each manufacturer determines the ideal tire pressure for their cars.
I have never seen a situation where the recommended pressure as found on the gas flap, exceeds the maximum pressure on the tire.
You are correct: there is only a max pressure on the tire, not a recommended pressure.
The same tire can often be found on different vehicles so a "recommended" pressure is not possible, as each manufacturer determines the ideal tire pressure for their cars.
I have never seen a situation where the recommended pressure as found on the gas flap, exceeds the maximum pressure on the tire.
I haven't either. If it does, then it is likely that the wrong tires are on the car. I doubt that is the case for the OP. They likely just read something wrong.
To add to what has already been said, the tires do not have a "recommended" tire pressure on them. At least I've never seen one that does. What is on the physical tires is the max pressure. If the gas tank flap is saying a higher pressure than the max pressure of the actual tire something is wrong. Are you saying that the tires themselves have a max pressure of 40psi? Seems pretty low for a max psi of a tire.
I have the Michelin Pilot Sport 4S and the tire says 40psi...that's why I am confused. Why would the gas cap say up to 44psi when the tire says 40?
I have the Michelin Pilot Sport 4S and the tire says 40psi...that's why I am confused. Why would the gas cap say up to 44psi when the tire says 40?
The tire has no idea what car it is going on, what that car weighs and on and on and on...never, not ever go on what the tire says. Not even on a bicycle.
2019 E 450, 2016 E350 4matic (retired), 2018 Ford Edge Sport, 2008 Porsche Boxster
Originally Posted by OldManAndHisCar
And, no matter what...remove the RF, while not a "true" AMG...it deserves a real tire
Contra point: the RF gives valuable safety that non RF do not have: The chance of a catastrophic failure with non RF vs. RF is so much higher, to gain marginal handling with non RF and give up the safety of the RF makes no sense.
If you hit a pot hole, a non RF with blow: a RF will have a tire bulge.
At night if you have a blowout, with a non RF you are stranded: either you carry a spare and give up the trunk or wait for a tow truck: with a RF you continue on your journey.
2019 E 450, 2016 E350 4matic (retired), 2018 Ford Edge Sport, 2008 Porsche Boxster
Originally Posted by OldManAndHisCar
The tire has no idea what car it is going on, what that car weighs and on and on and on...never, not ever go on what the tire says. Not even on a bicycle.
Contra point: the RF gives valuable safety that non RF do not have: The chance of a catastrophic failure with non RF vs. RF is so much higher, to gain marginal handling with non RF and give up the safety of the RF makes no sense.
If you hit a pot hole, a non RF with blow: a RF will have a tire bulge.
At night if you have a blowout, with a non RF you are stranded: either you carry a spare and give up the trunk or wait for a tow truck: with a RF you continue on your journey.
Just my $.02.
Did you pull that catastrophic failure statistic from thin air or elsewhere? I've had two, non-repairable (catastrophic) failures with RF tires and never had a non-repairable failure with a non-RF tire.
If you have a blowout with a RF tire, you are stranded because they are not drivable. I had that experience and it reinforced my decision to switch the non-RF tires. The handling and ride is noticeably better with non-RF tires due to the elimination of about 20 pounds of unsprung weight and a more flexible tire.
2019 E 450, 2016 E350 4matic (retired), 2018 Ford Edge Sport, 2008 Porsche Boxster
Originally Posted by ua549
Did you pull that catastrophic failure statistic from thin air or elsewhere? I've had two, non-repairable (catastrophic) failures with RF tires and never had a non-repairable failure with a non-RF tire.
If you have a blowout with a RF tire, you are stranded because they are not drivable. I had that experience and it reinforced my decision to switch the non-RF tires. The handling and ride is noticeably better with non-RF tires due to the elimination of about 20 pounds of unsprung weight and a more flexible tire.
No the weight difference is not 20 lbs. but less than 3 lbs per tire.
No actually personal experience:
I was changing a tire. On the inside there was a huge bubble. I had driven on it several hundred miles without knowing the bubble was there. If this was a non RF without the reinforced sidewalls I would have suffered a blowout.
Common sense dictates this result: RF have reinforced sidewalls vs. non reinforced sidewalls on a non run flat. That reinforced sidewall makes the tire safer.
No the weight difference is not 20 lbs. but less than 3 lbs per tire.
No actually personal experience:
I was changing a tire. On the inside there was a huge bubble. I had driven on it several hundred miles without knowing the bubble was there. If this was a non RF without the reinforced sidewalls I would have suffered a blowout.
Common sense dictates this result: RF have reinforced sidewalls vs. non reinforced sidewalls on a non run flat. That reinforced sidewall makes the tire safer.
Hope this clarifies.
You are jumping to a conclusion that reinforced sidewalls equates to some undefined aspect of safety. One could also posit that rough/hard handling vehicles are less safe than smooth handling vehicles.
The weight difference depends on brand and size. For my E300 size 245/45-18 the difference is 24 pounds per set of 4.
Continental ContiProContact SSR (RF) = 30 pounds
Continental ProContact TX (non-RF) = 24 pounds
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